I have a 10 year old Trek 7200 Hybrid. I am thinking of replacing the wheels in a while and was wondering what you guys could recommend. It came with Matrix 750's but they are no longer available. I tip the scales around 230lbs. and am looking to spend around $300. any suggestions.
The bike gear cables broke and Im trying to replace them. BUt it's my first time, and I've run into some trouble. I can't seem to get the correct tension in the cable, or there's something wrong with the thing thats supposed to shift gears. I took a video of it. The same tension works for two different positions in the gear shifter thing. How do I fix this?
I have a problem on my Front bicycle derailleur. I'm new to bike repair so I'm not sure of using the right terms. The chain is on the largest chainring in the front and when I use the small pusher on my shifter, I can hear a click but the chain doesn't move to a smaller chainring. I read online some advices and I removed the cover of my shifter, I put WD40 first, waited a long time, then put triflow, but it didn't fix the problem. In the shifter, I don't see any cable, I don't know where the cable is supposed to be.
Is there a way to repair it? If not, should I buy a new shifter? If yes, does it have to be a 7 speed shifter also? I'd prefer to buy on eBay, but I don't want to spend more than $25 (or else I would sell my bike for $50). Is it difficult to remove the old one and install a new one?
Something got caught in my chain, I think near the rear derailleur. Anyways, the rear derailleur is broken and I need to replace it, the chain too. Its a Walmart bike so i'm not sure what I should do for finding the measurements, but I do know its this. Its generally a really cheap bike so I want to find some new parts, or part specifications that are compatible. I thinks the gears are a 9x3 with twist shifts. If there's anything that could help performance like changing the cassette or chain rings, that would be helpful, but for now I need help finding a rear and most likely a front derailleur that is compatible. I know that bike chains and cassettes can have different spacing, and derailleurs can have different pull ratios, but I don't trust myself with this. Any help would be appreciated!
I'm also looking for a rear shock and a fork, I need to go with an air shock so I can adjust it, i'm too light for my shocks to take effect right now
When I ride in a fairly low gear, about the 4th or 5th easiest gear and am peddling pretty hard, I hear a knocking sound that sounds like the bottom bracket, difficult to tell though. When I ride harder in even lower gears, it doesn't knock. Very confusing. I've just had a major maintenance completed at a good shop but it still happens. Any ideas out there about what it could be? Thanks!
I won a Specialized Daily in a contest. It is a pretty sweet bike. But it has an internal gearhub on the rear wheel. I have never had this type of gear setup before. I am afraid to mess with it to get the wheel off. How the heck do I remove this wheel to change my flat tube? Thank you in advance for any assistance.
Hi - I am working on a wheelchair rather than a bicycle however it does have caliper brakes on both back wheels which are controlled by regular brake levers located on the wheelchair hand grasps (at the back). I want to control the brake levers remotely via two servo motors. I need to move the location of the brake levers so that someone can still push the wheel chair and that the servo motors won't be in the way of the users hands.
I need the resistance on the brake lever to be as 'light' as possible so that the servo motors can have the torque to open/close the brake lever incrementally. I know that friction can be caused by dirty cables and rusting calipers but the brake calipers and cables seem clean and rust free. Since I moved one of the brake levers down to the lower part of the wheelchair (see image attached) the lever resistance seems greater. There is no kink in the cable but I was wondering is there a link between brake friction and excess cable and/or the brake cable not being fixed at all times to the tubular steel ? I also read that the shorter the cable the more efficient the pulling mechanism is....would it be worth cutting the cables as short as possible and placing the motors as close as possible to the caliper or would this make any difference ?
I have a fairly cheepish bike, Appolo Evade Mountain Bike. (The reason for it having a freewheel was probably due to price not age).
Anyways. So, there is a tiny bit of freewheel wobble which I have come across on a lot of freewheel bikes so I never considered this a problem. Freewheels just tend to get a little bent right? Despite this, shifting is just fine and smooth and the whole drive system is just good overall. However
When I ride up a hill, and I mean steep hills, doesn't matter what front/freewheel gears I'm using, a knocking sounds starts to develop and then stays there regardless of flatness of the road. I've come to find changing in to the lowest gear 7, the noise quiets down a bit a may stop making the knocking sound *after* riding on a flat for a while. It is also quiet on 1 and 2. It's very loud when using gears 3 through 6. I assume that this happens because of the either bent/bad threading on the freewheel hub (or cone thing, sorry not sure what it is called).
So, could the reason for this a bad hub thing. The thing that slides through the whole hub and onto the freewheel itself?
I wouldn't of had an issue with the freewheel wobble, it's very slight and I've come across this before without actual performance issues, but this knocking sound is odd. I'm 99% sure it is coming from the freewheel cus the sound changes when going through the gears.
Hi - my bike won't shift into the big chain ring up front when in the 4 or 5 biggest cogs in the back. In the smaller cogs in back, it shifts ok up front. Any thoughts or suggestions as to what's going on, and how to fix, would be greatly appreciated.
replaced the rear wheel with new one the axle is slightly longer approx 4mm had to use washers as a temporary measure. i was wondering can you get knurled washers that will do the job better
I wanted to replace the rim on my roadbike and heard from a friend that I should do it spoke by spoke, that way I don't have to be careful where to put which spoke. I tried that and now the new rim has kinda an egg shape and I can't fit any more spokes (I got stuck after switching 18 of the 32).
(both rims are 622x15c)
1. Buy an already built new wheel and be done with it?
2. Start over again?
3. Remove all of the spokes from the old rim, learn how to align them correctly and try it again?
4. or something else?
I have never trued a wheel before, so that would be another big problem.
I ride a lot, so learning this kinda stuff would be really helpful, I just don't really know where to learn it from.
I recently bought a second hand Giant Upland SE and to be frank, it is my first bike with multiple gears. The bike functioned normally for the first day or two. I could shift between all the gears. When the bike is stored indoors, the pedal and wheel work fine but once I take it out in the cold (anywhere from -10 to -30 degrees celsius), the pedals rotate freely and have no action on the wheel. Also I am not able use some gears on the rear wheel. Can anyone please help with an explanation and solution?
I'm having an issue on my CX bike. Which is shimano with 38/48. On the last 2 rides when I'm in the lowest gear on the cassette my chain drops off the small chain ring. It doesn't happen on the 2nd from lowest gear on the cassette.
I decided that maybe my rear mech was limited enough so perhaps was pulling the chain off at an angle. Therefore I played with the Lo limiter screw and indexing adjustment to ensure that wasn't the case. On on my bike stand it was fine but once riding the bike again it dropped? Given that it has only just started happening could be be wear related? My chain is becoming loose? If that is the case then why doesn't it drop on on the 2nd lowest gear where the chain has more slake? Perhaps my chain ring has worn so it is easier for the chain to drop off? Maybe i need to adjust the angle of the rear derailleur to the cassette? Any help is appreciated.
I made a post a long while back looking for info on replacing my derailleur and painkiller was wonderfully helpful in providing info about how serious the problem actually was with more than just the derailleur.
Now I've finally arrived at a point where I've got the time and money to bring my old bike out of the garage and back to the road. I originally received the bike from my uncle in rough condition several years ago. It hasn't changed much since aside from brakes/rims/tires replacement, but I'm definitely certain about rebuilding it.
I'm looking to learn how to identify compatible parts for the following: cranks, pedals, sprockets, chain, rear cogs, shifters, and front/rear derailleurs. I've replaced a lot of parts before, but never this much and I'm not sure where to begin looking for parts that work well together. Shopping on amazon is really intimidating not knowing what parts are compatible.
We have a super cool bike co-op here in my town so I've got a place to do the build with the correct tools. The aim is to make it into a reliable mid-distance bike so I can do my beach rides again.
It truly is a shame I've let the bike get to this level of wear; I'm hoping that learning more about the parts will help me understand how to keep it in good condition after the rebuild.
photo album for the bike: http://imgur.com/a/GEeao
I need to find a replacement axle for the one which broke on my 1970's road bike. I've written the specs below, can anyone help me source a replacment? I don't know what to search for:
Thread size 9.2mm
Starting from the drive Side
24mm to first nut
First nut 6mm with an incorporated spacer 9mm
Second nut 3mm
Cone specification unknown
Gap to second Cone 71mm
Cone Specification unknown
20mm to end of thread