I replaced a cheapo suspension fork with a Nashbar chromoly rigid fork and really like the way it feels. Continuing with the upgrades I thought I'd replace the C-Star V brakes with some quality Shimano Deore V brakes BUT this wasn't as easy as I suspected. While my brake bosses are apparently the correct diameter the shouldered portion near the attachment point on the fork is too long or perhaps more precisely the Shimano brake arm is too shallow. Either way they don't fit. The brake arms will not go on the boss far enough before bottoming out to allow the spring tail to go into the hole. I'm aware that there are both 10mm and 8mm bosses but can't seem to find any info or various sizes with regards to the length of the shoulder. There are obviously bosses made that these Shimano brakes will fit unless Shimano is sell these things and people are just putting them in their assorted parts boxes like I did. Does Shimano manufacture a unique brake boss just for their V brakes? The bike world and it's non standardization is maddening sometimes. Any help is greatly appreciated
Yesterday 5 meters away from my destination my rear derailleur suddenly "snapped". I though at first that the cable broke, but no. I flipped the bike around and started shifting and it looks like it kinda "works" but it suddenly doesn't want to shift into the lowest gear (the biggest gearsprocket). I rode back home just fine, but I am a little bit worried and I am not sure what happened.
It is a Shimano RD 2300, I tried to find a replacement but I think it is pretty much sold out. I tried to look for other Shimano 2x8 rear derailleurs, and I found these: RD 2400 and RD 3000
My questions: Should I go to my local bike shop and ask them what my problem is and get it fixed? Which will probably cost 100€ or more.
Should I buy one of these rear derailleurs and try to replace my old one myself?
Should I buy a new "groupset" and upgrade to 2x9 or even higher?
Should I just simply buy a new bike? The old one has around 10000-15000 km which isn't that much, but I would need to slowly replace the brakes, the front shifter, the crankset and bottom bracket and the cables. I just bought new rims and a cassette.
I fitted a black 105 5800 compact chainring set (50/33) when I built my new bike. I prefer the 50 chainring cos, on our flat terrain, I can push it, but I can't push a 52 0r 53. However, I would like to change the 33 inner ring for a 42. I have found some rings with the same PCD, but they all seem to have some qualifications which I don't entirely follow. Is there a straight forward way to do what I want?
This bicycle bought 2nd hand, no idea of its history.
This particular caliper is front brake (Magura Louise brake handle!)
Managed to figure out how to bleed both brakes... One Clara brake handle, one Louise! Connect syringe with Magura oil on caliper. Open reservoir on handle, fill reservoir with syringe (if not already), slowly operate handle until reservoir near empty, then fill reservoir with syringe again. Bubbles will enter reservoir during this process to "bleed" the system.
Back brakes operating nice and sharp / firm after bleeding. Front brakes very spongy, as if only one piston operating.
From what little information I can find regarding Clara or Louise brakes, I understand that these older brakes have only one (1) active piston (I think the inner one supposed to be inactive and permanently placed almost touching the disc?). However my videos show that both these pistons seem to be active.
My videos show that the outer piston presses into the disc and actually presses the disc over nearer to the inside piston. The inside piston moves a little.
The inside piston needs to be protruding more or have more travel (movement). I've seen plenty of advice how to "reset" pistons back into the caliper by pushing them back in but no information about how to draw them out more. I assume this is not possible?
The whole action of this front caliper is so messed up!
How to correct if possible?
Links to videos and photo stills : (uploaded to Yandex Space)
I bought an old bicycle and see an unusual metal part attached on rear axle. Derailleur side. Starting from end I see a closed (no hole) bolt, two washers, then this "handle", a washer, then a deep nut, then a washer, then the derailleur, and then the bike frame. "Handle" is about one inch across and three inches deep, quite thick metal...flat but one edge has a perpendicular flange about 3/8 inch. No marks on handle. I think bike is a 1986 Schwinn Sprint made by Giant, with 24" wheels made in Taiwan by Femco (tire size a problem). I have a digital photo but it would not paste here. What is the function of this "handle"? Thanks.
I have a 10 year old Trek 7200 Hybrid. I am thinking of replacing the wheels in a while and was wondering what you guys could recommend. It came with Matrix 750's but they are no longer available. I tip the scales around 230lbs. and am looking to spend around $300. any suggestions.
The bike gear cables broke and Im trying to replace them. BUt it's my first time, and I've run into some trouble. I can't seem to get the correct tension in the cable, or there's something wrong with the thing thats supposed to shift gears. I took a video of it. The same tension works for two different positions in the gear shifter thing. How do I fix this?
I have a problem on my Front bicycle derailleur. I'm new to bike repair so I'm not sure of using the right terms. The chain is on the largest chainring in the front and when I use the small pusher on my shifter, I can hear a click but the chain doesn't move to a smaller chainring. I read online some advices and I removed the cover of my shifter, I put WD40 first, waited a long time, then put triflow, but it didn't fix the problem. In the shifter, I don't see any cable, I don't know where the cable is supposed to be.
Is there a way to repair it? If not, should I buy a new shifter? If yes, does it have to be a 7 speed shifter also? I'd prefer to buy on eBay, but I don't want to spend more than $25 (or else I would sell my bike for $50). Is it difficult to remove the old one and install a new one?
Something got caught in my chain, I think near the rear derailleur. Anyways, the rear derailleur is broken and I need to replace it, the chain too. Its a Walmart bike so i'm not sure what I should do for finding the measurements, but I do know its this. Its generally a really cheap bike so I want to find some new parts, or part specifications that are compatible. I thinks the gears are a 9x3 with twist shifts. If there's anything that could help performance like changing the cassette or chain rings, that would be helpful, but for now I need help finding a rear and most likely a front derailleur that is compatible. I know that bike chains and cassettes can have different spacing, and derailleurs can have different pull ratios, but I don't trust myself with this. Any help would be appreciated!
I'm also looking for a rear shock and a fork, I need to go with an air shock so I can adjust it, i'm too light for my shocks to take effect right now
When I ride in a fairly low gear, about the 4th or 5th easiest gear and am peddling pretty hard, I hear a knocking sound that sounds like the bottom bracket, difficult to tell though. When I ride harder in even lower gears, it doesn't knock. Very confusing. I've just had a major maintenance completed at a good shop but it still happens. Any ideas out there about what it could be? Thanks!
I won a Specialized Daily in a contest. It is a pretty sweet bike. But it has an internal gearhub on the rear wheel. I have never had this type of gear setup before. I am afraid to mess with it to get the wheel off. How the heck do I remove this wheel to change my flat tube? Thank you in advance for any assistance.
Hi - I am working on a wheelchair rather than a bicycle however it does have caliper brakes on both back wheels which are controlled by regular brake levers located on the wheelchair hand grasps (at the back). I want to control the brake levers remotely via two servo motors. I need to move the location of the brake levers so that someone can still push the wheel chair and that the servo motors won't be in the way of the users hands.
I need the resistance on the brake lever to be as 'light' as possible so that the servo motors can have the torque to open/close the brake lever incrementally. I know that friction can be caused by dirty cables and rusting calipers but the brake calipers and cables seem clean and rust free. Since I moved one of the brake levers down to the lower part of the wheelchair (see image attached) the lever resistance seems greater. There is no kink in the cable but I was wondering is there a link between brake friction and excess cable and/or the brake cable not being fixed at all times to the tubular steel ? I also read that the shorter the cable the more efficient the pulling mechanism is....would it be worth cutting the cables as short as possible and placing the motors as close as possible to the caliper or would this make any difference ?
I have a fairly cheepish bike, Appolo Evade Mountain Bike. (The reason for it having a freewheel was probably due to price not age).
Anyways. So, there is a tiny bit of freewheel wobble which I have come across on a lot of freewheel bikes so I never considered this a problem. Freewheels just tend to get a little bent right? Despite this, shifting is just fine and smooth and the whole drive system is just good overall. However
When I ride up a hill, and I mean steep hills, doesn't matter what front/freewheel gears I'm using, a knocking sounds starts to develop and then stays there regardless of flatness of the road. I've come to find changing in to the lowest gear 7, the noise quiets down a bit a may stop making the knocking sound *after* riding on a flat for a while. It is also quiet on 1 and 2. It's very loud when using gears 3 through 6. I assume that this happens because of the either bent/bad threading on the freewheel hub (or cone thing, sorry not sure what it is called).
So, could the reason for this a bad hub thing. The thing that slides through the whole hub and onto the freewheel itself?
I wouldn't of had an issue with the freewheel wobble, it's very slight and I've come across this before without actual performance issues, but this knocking sound is odd. I'm 99% sure it is coming from the freewheel cus the sound changes when going through the gears.
Hi - my bike won't shift into the big chain ring up front when in the 4 or 5 biggest cogs in the back. In the smaller cogs in back, it shifts ok up front. Any thoughts or suggestions as to what's going on, and how to fix, would be greatly appreciated.
replaced the rear wheel with new one the axle is slightly longer approx 4mm had to use washers as a temporary measure. i was wondering can you get knurled washers that will do the job better
I wanted to replace the rim on my roadbike and heard from a friend that I should do it spoke by spoke, that way I don't have to be careful where to put which spoke. I tried that and now the new rim has kinda an egg shape and I can't fit any more spokes (I got stuck after switching 18 of the 32).
(both rims are 622x15c)
1. Buy an already built new wheel and be done with it?
2. Start over again?
3. Remove all of the spokes from the old rim, learn how to align them correctly and try it again?
4. or something else?
I have never trued a wheel before, so that would be another big problem.
I ride a lot, so learning this kinda stuff would be really helpful, I just don't really know where to learn it from.