I have a bell bike rack. Yea that's right the cheap one and it has been carrying my bikes all over Georgia for 10 years with no problems until now. One of the straps that connects to the car from the rack. The problem is that bell doesn't make replacement parts, I called them. So I need some advice on which brand strap to buy to fix it.
Has anybody else ever worked with this? I have installed the bearings which went into the frame by hand and are straight, but whenever I get to tightening the cranks it seems to bind up and there is no way that I will be able to get to the recommended torque level of 48nm. The cranks have the correct order of wavy washer then seal on the drive side and just the seal on the non drive side. The amount of torque I can get it to is about 15nm and there is no play at all.
My front derailleur is a "Falcon" ---never heard of them! My problem is that I can shift to my large chainring or sprocket but as soon as I let go of the shift lever the derailleur pops the chain right back onto the small ring. W Thanks for your assistance.hen I move the shift lever it "clicks" several times---could there be some type of ratchet that is broken?
So today I got a flat tire (unrelated, it was a nail, extracted, repaired. All good) and when I pulled over to try to find what caused it, I noticed that my rim was rubbing the brakes the way it does when it's out of true because of a broken spoke.
The spoke is fine. It's the RIM that's been damaged, and that has damaged my calm some. I took it to my usual bike shop, guys are pros, figured they'd have an answer, no such luck. They gave me vague language about how it "looked like it had been hit pretty hard," and that they "see it all the time," but were unable to tell me WHY damage like that could occur, how I could prevent it from happening again, or whether it was something wrong with the rim. They even took pictures of the rim before they handed it back, one was clearly puzzled by it.
Worth noting is that I typically replace my own broken spokes, and true my own wheels; I've been doing it for decades and my proficiency is fair. I don't over-tighten my spokes, if anything my hand is gentle. But the spoke pictured is original to the wheel, so it's not like I over-torqued it with a spoke tool or anything. The spoke on the opposite end, as well as the ones on either side, are also original to the wheel.
Wheel is a Forté Terramax 26", brakes are rim brakes, rim was appx. 2 years old, many miles covered but all on street, all very cautious.
Just looking for answers here, anybody have any idea what could have caused this?
I have recently been trying to teach myself more about bike maintenance by doing the work myself (I know horrible idea ). Recently I noticed that my chain was rubbing on my front derailleur so I went and altered the high/low screws on the derailleur. Initially it wasn't moving when I was fiddling with the screws, and in an instructional video they suggested loosening the nut(bolt?) that holds down the shifting cable to allow the derailleur to reset to it's natural position before setting the high/low screws. I got it all going smoothly on the lowest (smallest) gear, and re-tightened the nut on the cable, but now when I try to shift to third it won't go. Additionally the cable feels way too tight when I try to shift up to third. I fiddled with it some more and managed toe get it to third, but I noticed that the red markers that show which gear it is in is way to the left, (far past) where it would normally line up with the 3 marker. I'm somewhat befuddled as to what has happened, though I have a strong suspicion I may have redone the cable improperly. Any ideas?
the steerer tube on my bike is rotating freely in the forks. Its a Focus Urban/Planet, about 4 years old.
I think it was twisted in an accident I had a month or so ago but I didn't get the rotation until I'd been riding it for about a week.
Anyway, Focus reps suggest replacing the whole fork/tube assembly. It looks like a press fit to me and it was rotating with no indication of vertical movement. Is welding acceptable (aluminium or alloy). Or is there a way to re seat the press fitting? Looks like some lock tight on the tube but not where it's doing anything.
Edit, on a closer look it looks like there's something (weld/braze?) that's chipped around the bit where the tube was anchored to the forks.
Are my hairline cracked or broken carbon fibre handlebars broken or useable? Can they be easily repaired?
They came with a bike second hand. I didn't notice it till I took the bar tape off. I haven't ridden them.
It looks as though the broken and cracked areas may just be fairings that wouldn't affect structural strength but I don't know for sure. I have seen carbon bars that don't have this bit.
Can anyone shed any light on this? Can I do a strength test at home?
i've recently started riding my bike for exercise. was going well for a couple weeks, but a few days ago the chain on my bike has been slipping off of what i think is the gear shifter. it is very annoying and i haven't been able to ride my bike because of it.
Edit More info: i have a Schwinn Ranger 10 speed. the gear only slips like that in high gear. it does not slip while in low gear.
i have a video of basically what happens. can't get a video of it while riding. it is a video of it slipping off stationary.
if i could get an idea of how to fix it, id appreciate it. thanks.
I have a very annoying creaky/rubby noise that I cant shift although I have narrowed it down to the rear wheel and not the bike.
I have a Giant Propel Advanced SL 0 Aero Race Road Bike 2016 3 months old and 1,000 miles with the SLR 0 Aero wheels 55mm.
The noise noise only happens (always takes 10 mins to warm up) when I'm seated and putting some power down uphill or on the flats. Now I know its not the BB as I have put my friends Mavic rear wheel on my bike and my SLR r/wheel on his Scott and he gets the same noise on his bike. He's 60kg and I'm 90kg and the noise was the same on his Scott Foil and on my Giant.
We swapped over the QR's and greased them and it made no difference.
I have tried 25mm contis and 23mm Giant factory tyres and it made no difference
I have lubed the spokes and no difference
Taken off the metal valve holder things and no difference
Check for brake rub - none
I'd be very grateful if anyone has an idea of what this noise cold be and how I could cure it?
So I'm having a very strange problem. I have an old 10 speed Chimo with friction shifters on the stem. A few months back I noticed that when I downshift to the inner chainring, my front derailleur can't shift it back up to the outer chainring. I put it off and only used 5 gears till I tried to fix it today. I flipped the bike upside down and played around with it and it shifted perfectly back and forth. I then righted the bike and had someone hold up the back tire. It also shifted just fine. But when I rode it, once again it refused to shift back up to the outer chainring. Any ideas what this could possibly be? Could my weight while riding be doing something that I'm not noticing? It's driving me bonkers!
Does anyone know if the rubber inserts in 'red cleats' can be purchased separately and if they can, where? My cleats are like new, but the rubber has worn down to where the plastic cleat touches the pedal face and creaks. Thanks.
Good afternoon internet hive mind. A friend has inherited a bike that has a wobbly bit somewhere inside the bottom bracket. I'm taking bits from old bikes to cannibalise into a new one to make it rideable and to be honest the whole thing is a great learning experience for me anyway, but I've hit a problem. In the past I've removed the bottom bracket with the correct tools, then to remove the bit that contains the ball bearings I just use an adjustable wrench to unscrew it. On this bike it isn't nice and hexagonal shaped to allow a wrench to grip properly, it keeps sliding off. It looks like some kind of unique tool is needed, can anyone assist me in removing this so I can replace the bottom bracket? I've attached a picture of the offending bit.
My bike has been damaged. The crankset is curved now.
From the information I have found it is Suntour XCC 48/38/28 (http://www.gtbicycles.com/usa_en/2013/bikes/urban/sport/transeo-4-0). The problem is that I don't know the bottom bracket size and anything else. So do you have any ideas what crankset can replace my old one and please tell me what instruments do I need to replace it (right now I have moved and I don't have any instruments).
I have a bike that I'm doing up as a project and I need to replace the bottom bracket (square taper). Since the front chainring (single, 46 teeth) is pretty badly worn I was going to take the opportunity and replace that as well. But what to get as replacement?
At the back I've got a 6-speed freewheel with a chain line of 38 mm. The bike is nothing special, it's more for fun and the learning experience (my first project..), so I'd like to keep the costs down. I was looking at some budget cranksets on ebay but most of them don't specify what kind of bottom bracket length to use. How do I find a crankset/bottom bracket combination that will work and also give me a narrow enough chain line? Is it just a matter of trial and error (that could get quite expensive if I'm unlucky I guess..) or is there something I should look out for?
Someone just gave me a 32" cruiser bike. Yes, it's a boxstore bike, but they were kind enough to give it to me and I appreciate their generosity. The back tire has a gash in it, and I'm having a hard time finding a replacement. I'm contemplating downsizing the wheel set to a more common size. Seems like it will work as the bike is very simple: single speed, coaster brake. Spatial reasoning isn't my forte so sometimes I look at things like this thinking they will work, only to find out I'm mistaken. What do I need to think through on such a swap? Thanks in advance!!!
I have a 1997 Giant Ferrago. Great bike, bulletproof. I was changing the rear tube, and doing a bit of lube to both wheels. When all was said and done, I had a left over spring that I think came off the bike. But where?
This bike started out life a very heavy Schwinn Trailway
It was over 40 lbs. Now it is very near 21lbs. and Rocks!
It is now 21 pounds 6 ounces. I can trim about another 3oz. by moving to a XT rear derailleur and replacing the seat bolts with Ti bolts and rear derailleur bolts. But not today. This bike will probably never be lighter than 21 lbs. the frame is just to heavy.
Even now every part including bolts has been replaced with something lighter and only the frame is original.
All of the parts used to make this build where based on 2 criteria, long life and light in weight.
No added fluff,strictly business built.
Thank you for your interest.
Have a nice day.