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Forum: Chain, Chainrings & Sprockets
Last Post: painkiller
02-23-2018, 11:49 PM
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Wheel compatibility
Forum: Wheels & Hubs
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02-23-2018, 07:00 PM
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Strange Brake Wear?
Forum: Brakes & Levers
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Forum: General Questions
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11-25-2017, 05:40 PM
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Inexpensive bike support
Forum: Tools & Shop
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Forum: Tools & Shop
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Will this bike fit me?
Forum: General Questions
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10-20-2017, 07:55 AM
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Tire help
Forum: Wheels & Hubs
Last Post: RichieSteele
10-19-2017, 01:52 PM
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Fork lube (+ others)
Forum: Lubrication
Last Post: ishvii
10-19-2017, 07:11 AM
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New 3 speed hub with coas...
Forum: Brakes & Levers
Last Post: Furcursto
10-18-2017, 08:29 AM
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Problem with my Front Der...
Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters
Last Post: kazz
10-17-2017, 08:12 PM
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Shimano FH-1055 Rear hub ...
Forum: Wheels & Hubs
Last Post: flor1n
10-10-2017, 11:08 AM
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Unbend old bike
Forum: Frame & Forks
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10-09-2017, 06:35 PM
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Front Derailleur/Shifter ...
Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters
Last Post: kazz
10-06-2017, 02:28 AM
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How to store spare tube/p...
Forum: Tires & Tubes
Last Post: josephturner
10-05-2017, 04:00 PM
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where to start?
Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters
Last Post: debrichard
10-03-2017, 04:30 PM
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My derailleur is out of p...
Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters
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09-29-2017, 07:02 PM
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Forum: Bikes & Components
Last Post: limey
09-29-2017, 02:07 PM
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Rear shock question
Forum: General Questions
Last Post: lupacexi
09-27-2017, 01:07 PM
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Locked up Shimano SG-7C18
Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters
Last Post: Jakobberry
09-24-2017, 08:06 PM
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  Putting drop bars on Cannondale Badboy (2002) hybrid
Posted by: ebgt - 09-30-2016, 06:53 PM - Forum: Brakes & Levers - Replies (5)


I want to put drop bars on this bike:

Need to change the brakes & want to put on combi brakes & shifters, but I'm a bit naive about how easily/well this can work.

Have been looking at a few possibilities for levers on Amazon - e.g.:

My hybrid has 3 cogs on the crank and 9 on the back bracket - i.e. - 27 gears. The shifters above say they're for 16 gears - so presumably not the ones for me?

Am I going to find any appropriate shifters for the way my bike as set up at the moment? Or do I need to change the gearing or abandon the plan altogether?


  Cannonade Badboy (2002) fork removal
Posted by: ebgt - 09-30-2016, 06:37 PM - Forum: Frame & Forks - Replies (18)


I'm trying to get the forks off a Cannondale 2002 Badboy frame - this is the model:

But I can't see how to go about it. I suspect that the black washers have corroded round the neck & that's what's keeping it attached (see pictures). Tried soaking the washers in WD40. Tried tapping it with a wooden mallet, but don't want to hit it too hard.

Anyone got any ideas? Help much appreciated...

[img][Image: 2ij6xab.jpg][/img]
[img][Image: b64tuw.jpg][/img]
[img][Image: dgjkhk.jpg][/img]


  Re-spray alloy Cannonade (US made frame)
Posted by: ebgt - 09-29-2016, 05:53 PM - Forum: General Questions - Replies (3)


I have an old Cannonade Bad Boy. Frame was made in the US. The paint has bubbled all over the place and the alloy has oxidised underneath it. I want to strip it - check the frames integrity and then re-spray it if it's not compromised.

Before anyone starts - I'm aware how about intensive stripping frames by hand is. I've done this with a couple of steel bikes.

Questions are:
What's the best paint stripper for an alloy bike? Nitromors? Is there something better?

What's the best primer for alloy? Have read this is good:

What's the best paint. By best, I mean - most resilient to sweat & water. Want to avoid the oxidation for as long as possible (Hammerite?) (nb - looking for a matt black finish).


  How thoroughly to clean BB before re greasing/assembling.
Posted by: Spifff - 09-22-2016, 01:24 PM - Forum: Bottom Brackets - Replies (2)

I've read a bunch of tutorials (including the sticky here) and the only part i'm unsure of is how thoroughly one must clean out all the old grease before regreasing and reassembling.

I've wiped everything down and it is reasonably clean. Wondering if that bit of grease stuck in the bearing ring will contaminate and ruin the new grease or if a bit of mixing doesn't matter and the cleaning step is just mentioned out of completeness?

And a secondary question would be what product to use to clean them. i don't currently have access to any solvents so i'd be buying something and just want to not end up with something overly harsh/dangerous or custom/expensive.

Also doing the rear hub with coaster brake. This is a kids 14" bike. I assume the same question applies there.

Any thoughts appreciated

  Pedal Washers ?
Posted by: !TREK4ME! - 09-17-2016, 02:57 AM - Forum: Cranks & Pedals - Replies (3)

Hey Guys,
Was just wandering...
Some of my bikes came with pedal washers and some do not have pedal washers. What I'm talking about is the washer that fits between the crank and where the pedal threads on.
Are they needed? or not?

  Handlebar end plugs?
Posted by: !TREK4ME! - 09-17-2016, 02:51 AM - Forum: Stem & Handlebars - Replies (2)

Hey Guys,
Looking for an affordable place to purchase some bar end plugs. Don't need anything fancy, just the typical plastic ones will be fine. Play a lot of Bike Polo and they get chewed up quickly... and need to be replaced often. We keep the bar ends plugged, so no one gets "core sampled" Lol
The common size is 19.5mm or 3/4" inside diameter. 22.5 bar size. 
Is there something at hardware stores that will work in the fastener section? 

  Schwinn meridian rear drive axle
Posted by: Slipinn - 09-15-2016, 11:31 AM - Forum: Wheels & Hubs - Replies (3)

Recently bought a slightly used 26" meridian trike. While replacing wider tires on the rear, I noticed an issue with the rear drive side wheel hub. The wheel is held on with a nut and single washer. The hub is not held firmly in a location on the axle and is able to slide back and forth on the axle a good half inch even though the nut is tightened all the way down to its bottom threads on the axle. The non drive side hub and wheel has very little play on its axle , perhaps a 1/8 inch and seems to run fine.

While the drive side hub slides back and forth and seems to be creating undue wear on the hub which is a hollow "D" shaped hub.
My question is should the rear axle have an even amount of axle sticking out of the bearings on both sides and thus allowing me to remove some of the play out of the drive side or was the rear axle designed this way for some reason to allow the drive hub to slide back and forth on the axle? To me it seems like if the play was removed the hub would not wallow out from sliding back and forth.
It looks like the solid rear axle is held on by two large nuts on each side seating it to the bearings and frame. Any help is appreciated.

  Stay spacing for 6-speed freewheel
Posted by: sammich - 09-11-2016, 08:21 PM - Forum: Chain, Chainrings & Sprockets - Replies (3)

I have an older frame with an ultra-6 freewheel.  When the rear wheel is removed the stays measure 122.78 (hub is a 120 for the ultra-6).  I can cold bend it out to 126, I'm sure, but do I need to if I just put a regular 6-speed freewheel on?  I'm not sure how tight that would be as far as the chain scraping the frame.  has anybody tried it?  Has anybody bent a 120 out to 126 or 130 without problems?

  Chain wear indicators
Posted by: sammich - 09-10-2016, 08:48 PM - Forum: Chain, Chainrings & Sprockets - Replies (2)

I recently picked up a Park CC-3.2 to put in my portable bike tool-bag (12 inch ruler won't fit).  With it one of my chains that measures fine with the ruler, fails, even at the .75 side.  Reading on the subject states that the CC-3.2 doesn't take into account roller wear, which the Shimano TL-CN41 does. So, I took a popsicle stick (perfect thickness) and shaped it to press the roller nearest the drop-in end of the Park to give similar results to the Shimano and eliminate roller wear anomalies.  Sure enough, measurements come out differently, and what "failed" previously with the Park, now passes.  My question(s):  Is the Park CC-3.2 cut to compensate for roller wear to a point (meaning longer than it would be if the rollers were both pressed against their links in the same direction, as with the Shimano or my popsicle stick)?  If so, my invention would be inaccurate.  Has anyone measured with calipers (vernier) these two tools to see if they are the same distance at their measuring points?
Thanks for any insights or help.

  Cables for 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix
Posted by: Anders Y - 09-10-2016, 07:58 PM - Forum: Cables & Housing - Replies (2)

I am getting a 1978 Raleigh Grand Prix road bike into riding condition. The derailleur cables need replacing. Can I use standard cables found at a local bike shop or do I need to find special "vintage" cables online? This is my first bike repair project, so any help would be appreciated.


  Newest toy
Posted by: fishboy316 - 09-08-2016, 02:04 AM - Forum: Show off your bike! - Replies (4)

Hi guys, Hope all are well here! I recently got this new 2017 Farley7. I work P/T at a trek dealer and got a smokin deal on this thing! I LOVE this bike! It is aggressive as heck. It's fast and can climb trees! Sold my Amorok8 to a riding buddy and got this.

[Image: f7%201_zpsvzsau5h9.jpg]

[Image: f7%203_zpsegrr9hxq.jpg]

  Changing cassette fail
Posted by: Nexus6 - 09-03-2016, 07:07 PM - Forum: Chain, Chainrings & Sprockets - Replies (2)

Hi all. 1st time post. I am unablr to remove the cassette from my rear tyre. I followed the easy tutorial on bikeradar but havent managed to get any success.

See link to pics of my cassette and the lockring i bought.

I think i know where i went wrong. The lockring i purchased didnt fit properly, so i just used a spanner to remove the bolt. Now all that is left on the wheel is the old cassette..

Help pls!

Sorry if this is a complete durrbrain question but videos online are not helping so far.

  Just joined this forum! I hope that this helps. thanks
Posted by: DaveArtista - 08-24-2016, 07:18 PM - Forum: Site Help - Replies (5)

Hello everyone!
I just joined this bike forum.
How is this Bike Forum everyone?
Im on here because my wife and I would ask for bike repair help.

My wife bought herself a decent looking bicycle,
the 24" 'ROADMASTER' "GranitePeak": at rider height= 4'6"~5'6" !!
Its brand new. She rode it around the block a few times along with our spaniel dog!
(Of course, she was using the collar and leash to keep our dog with her-lol.)
When she got back home, she told me that the bikes pedals were not able to turn anymore.
First of all, is this a good bike and secondly, what can be done to fix the pedals??
Thanks everyone!!

  Raleigh Chopper Restoration
Posted by: adman2001 - 08-20-2016, 05:27 AM - Forum: Bikes & Components - No Replies

Hi guys,
I am just recently doing up a small Raleigh chopper
I was wondering what type of chopper it is.
I think it might be a Mk 1 or Mk 2.

The Tyre sizes are
Front 11 x 13/4
Rear 16 x 2

Could you please help asap.

Cheers Adman

  When sitting and riding on mountain bike, front gears will not shift.
Posted by: Mountain - 08-19-2016, 06:52 PM - Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters - Replies (1)

Hi, first post, very noobie to bike stuff sorry :)
(Sorry, it's a little long, tried to keep it concise, sry).

Basically, when the bike is on a stand or even just picking the bike to rear tire is hovering, when pedaling and shifting through the front gears 1,2,3 it shits perfectly. Very smooth and fluid. However, when I'm riding the bike the bike gears will not shift at all!

(Quick necessary back story). Original issue was that the chain was rubbing against front derailleur, took it to Halfords said the FD was bent. (No clue how that happened, don't recall dropping the bike or anything bashing in to the FD). The Halford's guy simply bent it bake he said. (Whether that bent fixed FD is the issue still I'm not sure). So they fixed that and all but everything seemed fine for a while until the FD gears were not shifting anymore when sitting on it. Halfords wouldn't of noticed that because they don't ride it themselves after fixing.

So I changed around a bit with the HL screws attempting to fix this issue with instructions from YouTube vids. Only with adjusting those screws (haven't adjusted the gear wire yet). I've more or less fixed it except for the 3rd gear. So 1 shifts to 2 nicely, issue is that the grip shift on the bike, the arrow doesn't align corresponding to the gear..

Grip shift, arrow pointing on 1, chain on gear 1.
Grip shift, arrow pointing (one click above) 2, then the chain goes on gear 2. (So essentially being between gears actually shifts it to the second gear).

When the grip shift is on 3 the derailleur does move and so does the chain, but it just doesn't grab on to the largest crank. (Similar issue with grip shift indicating like on 2) when on 3, it clicks past it once more, then sometimes it goes in to 3. But it's not very smooth at all and probably gonna damage the cranks or something.

Summary (With a bent FD that has supposedly been fixed by bending it back remember):

Front bike gears shift perfectly WHEN NOT sitting on the bike. (However, the grip shift numbers don't align 100% with gear 2 and 3).

WHEN SITTING on bike, FD gears were not shifting at all, adjusted with HL screws 1 and 2 shifting proper. (Still with the grip shift number not 100% aligning properly with the actual chain on the gear).

Will not shift to the 3rd gear at all when sitting on the bike.

Thank you for taking your time for reading all of this :)


  Bike rack repair
Posted by: maestro489 - 08-16-2016, 08:40 PM - Forum: Accessories & Clothing - No Replies

I have a bell bike rack. Yea that's right the cheap one and it has been carrying my bikes all over Georgia for 10 years with no problems until now. One of the straps that connects to the car from the rack. The problem is that bell doesn't make replacement parts, I called them. So I need some advice on which brand strap to buy to fix it.

  BB90 GXP Adapter
Posted by: fishfighter - 08-12-2016, 10:58 PM - Forum: Bottom Brackets - Replies (3)

Has anybody else ever worked with this? I have installed the bearings which went into the frame by hand and are straight, but whenever I get to tightening the cranks it seems to bind up and there is no way that I will be able to get to the recommended torque level of 48nm. The cranks have the correct order of wavy washer then seal on the drive side and just the seal on the non drive side. The amount of torque I can get it to is about 15nm and there is no play at all.

  Shifting Problem
Posted by: fulltimerart - 08-09-2016, 08:12 PM - Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters - Replies (2)

My front derailleur is a "Falcon" ---never heard of them! My problem is that I can shift to my large chainring or sprocket but as soon as I let go of the shift lever the derailleur pops the chain right back onto the small ring. W Thanks for your assistance.hen I move the shift lever it "clicks" several times---could there be some type of ratchet that is broken?

  Any idea what could have happened to my rim?
Posted by: CaptainJones - 08-02-2016, 07:00 PM - Forum: Wheels & Hubs - Replies (3)

[Image: IMG_3671.jpg]
So today I got a flat tire (unrelated, it was a nail, extracted, repaired. All good) and when I pulled over to try to find what caused it, I noticed that my rim was rubbing the brakes the way it does when it's out of true because of a broken spoke.
The spoke is fine. It's the RIM that's been damaged, and that has damaged my calm some. I took it to my usual bike shop, guys are pros, figured they'd have an answer, no such luck. They gave me vague language about how it "looked like it had been hit pretty hard," and that they "see it all the time," but were unable to tell me WHY damage like that could occur, how I could prevent it from happening again, or whether it was something wrong with the rim. They even took pictures of the rim before they handed it back, one was clearly puzzled by it.
Worth noting is that I typically replace my own broken spokes, and true my own wheels; I've been doing it for decades and my proficiency is fair. I don't over-tighten my spokes, if anything my hand is gentle. But the spoke pictured is original to the wheel, so it's not like I over-torqued it with a spoke tool or anything. The spoke on the opposite end, as well as the ones on either side, are also original to the wheel.
Wheel is a Forté Terramax 26", brakes are rim brakes, rim was appx. 2 years old, many miles covered but all on street, all very cautious.
Just looking for answers here, anybody have any idea what could have caused this?

  Front derailleur won't shift into third (largest) gear
Posted by: bruin1989 - 08-01-2016, 02:46 AM - Forum: Derailleurs & Shifters - Replies (1)

I have recently been trying to teach myself more about bike maintenance by doing the work myself (I know horrible idea Smile ).  Recently I noticed that my chain was rubbing on my front derailleur so I went and altered the high/low screws on the derailleur.  Initially it wasn't moving when I was fiddling with the screws, and in an instructional video they suggested loosening the nut(bolt?) that holds down the shifting cable to allow the derailleur to reset to it's natural position before setting the high/low screws. I got it all going smoothly on the lowest (smallest) gear, and re-tightened the nut on the cable, but now when I try to shift to third it won't go.  Additionally the cable feels way too tight when I try to shift up to third.  I fiddled with it some more and managed toe get it to third, but I noticed that the red markers that show which gear it is in is way to the left, (far past) where it would normally line up with the 3 marker. I'm somewhat befuddled as to what has happened, though I have a strong suspicion I may have redone the cable improperly.  Any ideas?

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