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Bearing cup / race - thread directions
#1
I am trying to replace the bottom bracket on my city bike. Its a 4 year old Giant expression dx. It is a cup & axle bottom bracket. I have managed to remove the lockring, adjustable cup w/ bearings, the axle & drive side bearings. But I cannot get the fixed cup (drive/chain side) off. I am going clockwise with the wrench to remove it, is this correct - or could it NOT be reverse threaded?
Also can i use/get a sealed BB or Cassette type to replace this cup & axle BB?
Please, can anyone help??
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#2
Drive side is clockwise to remove:-
http://bicycletutor.com/bottom-bracket/

You can fit a sealed BB if you want.
You will have to determine the correct matching length.

http://bicycletutor.com/cartridge-bottom-bracket/

But if your current BB is in good condition then stick with that until a new one is required.
I have a 15 year bike with the original BB in it. (Campagnolo)
[font=Trebuchet MS]Ride hard or ride home alone![/font]
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#3
Thanks

But it's sill not coming out - it seems to be welded in. I may have to put new bearings into what looks like a pitted cup. it's all fairly rusty inside the frame so wanted to put a sealed BB in there
Oh Well!
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#4
You could try some heat.
Another way is this:-
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Scroll down a bit and see Sheldons home made tool (nut & bolt).
May allow a long socket wrench to give more leverage?
[font=Trebuchet MS]Ride hard or ride home alone![/font]
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#5
My coworker ended up going to a bike shop and let them remove it, they did it for free (well, he put some bucks in the coffee tin). He has the tool, but too low a quality (to short lever arm)... This is one of the cases where the saying "If it doesn't work with brute force you're not applying enough of it" actually works. Usually be weary when you need excessive amounts of force.
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#6
I did this recently so can offer the following advice for next time (this is pasted from a different thread)

1. remember that it's reverse threaded!
2. WD40 the area. It's NOT lube (as alex says but it does penetrate into rust and help parts move.
3. pour boiling water on it. The hot water heats the metal up, and it expands. The inside will be slightly insulated from the heat by the "lockring" so expands a little less. This makes the whole thing easier to undo.
4. get a MAN-SIZED spanner preferably longer than a foot.

so for the best chance of getting the BB off without extra help. WD40 it generously. Leave for 15-20 min. Boil a kettle. Pour SLOWLY over the part. A.S.A.P get your foot long spanner and start turning the correct direction. Also if your spanner is securely on the BB tool then try "hitting" it round with a hammer or something. Can help start it off. Use this as a last resort because you are most likely to damage things this way.

I had to bash the thing round with a hammer whilst holding the spanner onto the thin edges of the fixed cup to stop it slipping off. Hope this helps for next time.
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#7
There is also this alternative which I have and is really a sweet tool....
http://bikesmithdesign.com/BBTool/index.html
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#8
I'v managed to do it!! with brute force (& few taps with the hammer)
BUT now i think I could have damaged the reverse threads in the frame.

The fixed cup had to come out though, It has a big ridge worn into it & the ball-bearings that were left were deformed into an oblong shape, the crank too. So, here's hoping someone can tell me if Press fit BB or threadless BB (are they the same thing?) can now be installed??

I'v never done any forum type thing, This is Great. Hope you'ze don't get tired of my incompetence

Thanks again
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#9
I don't know about press-fit or thread-less. What I can tell you is that, if the thread in the frame of the bike is okay you would probably be best buying a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. UN54 seems popular and cheap. Other, more researched opinion appreciated!

If the thread is damaged, one "threaded" solution is to repair the damage by getting the thread re-tapped. LBS can do this for me not sure if your's will. May need the old thread smoothing over with stainless steel resin before re-tapping. I'm doing this with my OLD Raleigh frame at the moment.
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#10
(04-19-2010, 09:34 AM)stixmaster Wrote:  I did this recently so can offer the following advice for next time (this is pasted from a different thread)

1. remember that it's reverse threaded!
2. WD40 the area. It's NOT lube (as alex says but it does penetrate into rust and help parts move.
3. pour boiling water on it. The hot water heats the metal up, and it expands. The inside will be slightly insulated from the heat by the "lockring" so expands a little less. This makes the whole thing easier to undo.
4. get a MAN-SIZED spanner preferably longer than a foot.

so for the best chance of getting the BB off without extra help. WD40 it generously. Leave for 15-20 min. Boil a kettle. Pour SLOWLY over the part. A.S.A.P get your foot long spanner and start turning the correct direction. Also if your spanner is securely on the BB tool then try "hitting" it round with a hammer or something. Can help start it off. Use this as a last resort because you are most likely to damage things this way.

I had to bash the thing round with a hammer whilst holding the spanner onto the thin edges of the fixed cup to stop it slipping off. Hope this helps for next time.

Excellent ideas all. However the readily available "Liquid Wrench" is vastly superior to WD and Kroil is supper although mostly mail order. Another home-brew thats better than all is 50% acetone and 50% ATF transmission fluid. I always spray parts a night before disassembly.

WD-40 ............................ 238 pounds

PB Blaster .......................214 pounds

Liquid Wrench .............. 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
PS always follow manufacturers directions, some of the sprays are nasty.
Never Give Up!!!
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#11
You should be able to get a threadless bb unit, but you need to know your shell length, 68, 70, or 73mm. and your overall axle length.
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