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Lockring Stuck pretty bad
#1
Hi all,

I've been a lurker here for ages, but recently decided to fix my bike myself rather than get it done by the local bike shop.

So I followed the tutorial for replacing a sealed bottom bracket cartridge, however I can't for the life of me get the drive side lockring to move. I think I've even worn out my lockring tool, and will need to get another one. Damn thing just won't budge!

Is there anything i can do?

Thanks ever so much for your help and this great site

//first post so take it easy, especially with the acronyms.
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#2
Just a reminder that the drive side is clockwise to undo.
You say "lockring" - is this an old style BB or a cartridge?
If a cartridge - is it plastic, steel or aluminum?

In the end you might have to resort to LBS to remove it. Get it wrong and you could wreck the frame.
[font=Trebuchet MS]Ride hard or ride home alone![/font]
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#3
I recently replaced a BB so tricks to try include the following.

1. remember that it's reverse threaded!
2. WD40 the area. It's NOT lube (as alex says but it does penetrate into rust and help parts move.
3. pour boiling water on it. The hot water heats the metal up, and it expands. The inside will be slightly insulated from the heat by the "lockring" so expands a little less. This makes the whole thing easier to undo.
4. get a MAN-SIZED spanner Smile preferably longer than a foot.

so for the best chance of getting the BB off without extra help. WD40 it generously. Leave for 15-20 min. Boil a kettle. Pour SLOWLY over the part. A.S.A.P get your foot long spanner and start turning the correct direction. Also if your spanner is securely on the BB tool then try "hitting" it round with a hammer or something. Can help start it off. Use this as a last resort because you are most likely to damage things this way.
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#4
(04-19-2010, 08:52 AM)stixmaster Wrote:  I recently replaced a BB so tricks to try include the following.

1. remember that it's reverse threaded!
2. WD40 the area. It's NOT lube (as alex says but it does penetrate into rust and help parts move.
3. pour boiling water on it. The hot water heats the metal up, and it expands. The inside will be slightly insulated from the heat by the "lockring" so expands a little less. This makes the whole thing easier to undo.
4. get a MAN-SIZED spanner Smile preferably longer than a foot.

so for the best chance of getting the BB off without extra help. WD40 it generously. Leave for 15-20 min. Boil a kettle. Pour SLOWLY over the part. A.S.A.P get your foot long spanner and start turning the correct direction. Also if your spanner is securely on the BB tool then try "hitting" it round with a hammer or something. Can help start it off. Use this as a last resort because you are most likely to damage things this way.

Thanks. I did WD40, but the boiling water thing might make a difference. I don't have a man size spanner, but will try to get hold of one.

thanks, good tips
(04-17-2010, 05:12 PM)cyclerUK Wrote:  Just a reminder that the drive side is clockwise to undo.
You say "lockring" - is this an old style BB or a cartridge?
If a cartridge - is it plastic, steel or aluminum?

In the end you might have to resort to LBS to remove it. Get it wrong and you could wreck the frame.

It's a cartridge, and its metal, not idea if its steel or alum.

LBS (I presume you mean local bike shop?), I don't know, i tried calling a few of them and they seem so unhelpful do us DIYers. And besides they want me to book it in and drop it off during the week, which I can't as I'm at work.
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#5
Hi Don,
Quick question is there any way you would be able to post a close up picture?

Thank in advanced ,
Bill
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#6
(04-19-2010, 12:22 PM)Bill Wrote:  Hi Don,
Quick question is there any way you would be able to post a close up picture?

Thank in advanced ,
Bill

Sorry about the delay. I managed to take a picture only this morning.

Here you go:

[attachment=731]
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#7
This looks like its been in for a while, as been said it probably is counterclockwise rotation.Try soaking it for a day or so.Try to get one of the better penetrants. Butane torch Heat is good.Careful for flame ables and paint. Follow manufacturers info on all products.

Sure be nice if members listed location in their FAQ, as some of these are USA only items.

" Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment."

Type of penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ................................ 516 pounds

WD-40 ............................ 238 pounds

PB Blaster .......................214 pounds

Liquid Wrench .............. 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Never Give Up!!!
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#8
If you do use heat then check there isn't a plastic cable guide under the bottom bracket. Remove before applying heat.
Also if you have applied any release oil / liquid then clean this off before as well.

The chances are that the steel BB has welded itself to the alloy frame due to electrolytic action. (dissimilar metals).
[font=Trebuchet MS]Ride hard or ride home alone![/font]
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#9
10-4 to all your cautions. Also when using penetrant give the bracket a sharp tap once in a while to help . Do be careful and if these tips do not work do take it to a mechanic.

BTW congratulations on doing the job yourself. I just did a overhaul of all my bearings and the cost of tools is less than shop rate and now I have the tools.
Never Give Up!!!
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#10
Really appreciate all the help and advice here. Another weekend comes and I'm going to try again. I'll keep you posted.
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#11
(04-17-2010, 04:52 PM)CycleDon Wrote:  Hi all,

I've been a lurker here for ages, but recently decided to fix my bike myself rather than get it done by the local bike shop.

So I followed the tutorial for replacing a sealed bottom bracket cartridge, however I can't for the life of me get the drive side lockring to move. I think I've even worn out my lockring tool, and will need to get another one. Damn thing just won't budge!

Is there anything i can do?

Thanks ever so much for your help and this great site

//first post so take it easy, especially with the acronyms.

Guess now you know why bike shops charge a decent amount for this job, my lbs charges £30 to strip out and replace all parts for standard cups and £40 for basic sealed, including parts, and of course at this time of the year they get very busy with people finding bikes in sheds they had forgotten about.
One tip is to find a bolt that will fit the thread in the end of the axle and use this plus some packing if necessary to lock the removal tool to the axle and so prevent it "camming out".
Note you if you end up damaging the thread, all is not lost, you can buy a threadless sealed unit which fits inside the thread!.
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#12
So many times I have fought these stubborn bottom brackets, I have found that there is no grease on the threads. You are so right trev, there seems to be a problem with allow into steel. I have a specific longer bolt and large washers that allows me to lock the BB tool in place. It gives great management to controlling removal.
Cycle the streets of Bristol!
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#13
Sometimes a man just needs a bigger hammer. Wink
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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#14
(02-21-2012, 01:29 AM)RobAR Wrote:  Sometimes a man just needs a bigger hammer. Wink
Trini Lopez song!!
Cycle the streets of Bristol!
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