mvwanderson
New Member
    
Posts: 1
Joined: Apr 2010
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RE: Creaky rear wheel when peddling
"Thanks for the reply,
I have checked spokes and all fine (I think). But just got a friend to listen for the noise. With the bike stationary and brakes hard on I pressed on the peddles to make the sound. My friend listened and noticed the cassette visibly moved with the chain pressure whilst the wheel didn't."
Bingo! I just had the same symptoms, and after a day dedicated to the task of "find it," my shop guy took apart the rear cassette, and the freewheel hub body was the culprit.
The cog discs and their spacers all fit on the splines of the freewheel hub, but the hub body is cast aluminum (light weight), while the discs are steel. The difference in material hardness means that the discs act like knives and they start to cut into the relative butter of the splines of the hub. What your friend saw wasn't the entire cassette moving, but just the cog the chain was on. When you take the discs off, you will see the bites on the rear-facing surfaces of the splines. Solution? At least for Shimano, it is a new hub body, about $50, I'm told. Plus installation, of course. Ask if you can watch the process. You will learn a lot.
Hope this helps.
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| Apr 21, 2010 09:22 AM |
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saladfunky
New Member
    
Posts: 3
Joined: Apr 2010
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RE: Creaky rear wheel when peddling
(Apr 21, 2010 09:22 AM)mvwanderson Wrote: "Thanks for the reply,
I have checked spokes and all fine (I think). But just got a friend to listen for the noise. With the bike stationary and brakes hard on I pressed on the peddles to make the sound. My friend listened and noticed the cassette visibly moved with the chain pressure whilst the wheel didn't."
Bingo! I just had the same symptoms, and after a day dedicated to the task of "find it," my shop guy took apart the rear cassette, and the freewheel hub body was the culprit.
The cog discs and their spacers all fit on the splines of the freewheel hub, but the hub body is cast aluminum (light weight), while the discs are steel. The difference in material hardness means that the discs act like knives and they start to cut into the relative butter of the splines of the hub. What your friend saw wasn't the entire cassette moving, but just the cog the chain was on. When you take the discs off, you will see the bites on the rear-facing surfaces of the splines. Solution? At least for Shimano, it is a new hub body, about $50, I'm told. Plus installation, of course. Ask if you can watch the process. You will learn a lot.
Hope this helps.
Cheers for that. and as you said I took the cassette apart and after cleaning everything, as it was pretty filthy, I saw what you described in the aluminium freehub where the steel cogs have cut in! They weren't particularly big nicks on mine so I applied grease to the cleaned surfaces and re-installed everything. The bike is now quiet again, although it has clunked a couple of times when engaging so I am sure things aren't 100% According to wiggle, the suppliers, this is normal for an easton freehub and not a worry? I'm sure the story isn't over and imagine a new freehub may be a possibility sometime.
cheers
Chris
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| Apr 21, 2010 01:47 PM |
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