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GT Arette with Altus Cranks (Tool?)
#1
Hello , Can someone pleas clue me in on what puller I need for the Schimano Altus Crank removal? Is it the FC10 I see mentioned some here? I used a micrometer across the inside of the threaded puller insert area and it seems to measure 20.5 mm across..

I would like to pull this bottom bracket apart and rebuild it or maintain it... It is a little loose which is to be expected on a 15 year old bike?

Short story... this was a first "adult" bike for me then I bought a Trek 7500 which is a good bike I guess but the frame geometry? is just not as comfortable to me... My knees seem to be up against the handlebars when pedaling... Maybe I just bought the wrong size.

Anyhow I am now rebuilding this bike. First time for this job but I was an auto mechanic for 18 years in my earlier days and like tinkering with things. So that's my story and I'm sticking to it .. Please .. Please .. Tell me which Puller I need for the Altus Arms ... Thank You Very Much .. Don J.
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#2
(06-07-2010, 03:13 AM)diverdon Wrote:  Hello , Can someone pleas clue me in on what puller I need for the Schimano Altus Crank removal? Is it the FC10 I see mentioned some here? I used a micrometer across the inside of the threaded puller insert area and it seems to measure 20.5 mm across..

I would like to pull this bottom bracket apart and rebuild it or maintain it... It is a little loose which is to be expected on a 15 year old bike?

Short story... this was a first "adult" bike for me then I bought a Trek 7500 which is a good bike I guess but the frame geometry? is just not as comfortable to me... My knees seem to be up against the handlebars when pedaling... Maybe I just bought the wrong size.

Anyhow I am now rebuilding this bike. First time for this job but I was an auto mechanic for 18 years in my earlier days and like tinkering with things. So that's my story and I'm sticking to it .. Please .. Please .. Tell me which Puller I need for the Altus Arms ... Thank You Very Much .. Don J.

Just wanted to let you know if your crank was in this time era then you should be able to get a new one.... http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml97/97149.html. I am thinking this one but I would wait to see someone confirm my answer.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#3
One of these should do the trick: http://www.bicyclebuys.com/item/1736463/UK, or something similar, and yes the Shimano FC10 will fit.

The threaded hole in the crank arms, into which the puller fits, is standard for all cotterless cranks.

Depending on the age of the bicycle, you may find that the bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge type, in which case you will have to replace the whole unit. To be honest, if it is the older cup and cone type, unless it is absolutely pristine with no signs of wear or pitting, I'd be tempted to fit a sealed cartridge type anyway. I find that they generally last longer, they're a lot less hassle to fit and there's no messing about getting the tightness just right. You will need a special tool to fit a cartridge bottom bracket as well: http://www.google.co.uk/products?q=shimano+cartridge+bottom+bracket+tool&hl=en&aq=f
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#4
(06-07-2010, 03:28 AM)xerxes Wrote:  One of these should do the trick: http://www.bicyclebuys.com/item/1736463/UK, or something similar, and yes the Shimano FC10 will fit.

The threaded hole in the crank arms, into which the puller fits, is standard for all cotterless cranks.

Depending on the age of the bicycle, you may find that the bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge type, in which case you will have to replace the whole unit. To be honest, if it is the older cup and cone type, unless it is absolutely pristine with no signs of wear or pitting, I'd be tempted to fit a sealed cartridge type anyway. I find that they generally last longer, they're a lot less hassle to fit and there's no messing about getting the tightness just right. You will need a special tool to fit a cartridge bottom bracket as well: http://www.google.co.uk/products?q=shimano+cartridge+bottom+bracket+tool&hl=en&aq=f

Thank You so much everyone for the replies .. I have seen the recall deal since trying to google how to get this thing apart . Thing is the recall was a long time ago.. :-( .. Id just like to try to get this apart . I think I will try a couple of the local bike shops tomorrow and see about getting the correct puller .. Thanks for the tip on the cartridge type bearings . I'll try to locate that too ..

Gonna repaint this bike frame after cleaning it up .. (Minimum rust) and put it all together using some of the parts off of the TREK bike if I can .. I enjoy tinkering with things and this will be a new project for me.

If someone knows the correct puller for this crank i'd really appreciate it . If I guess and order something It will be wrong for sure . My Luck ..

Thanks Again ... I will post the pics when it's done .. This is a Hybrid but I have turned it into a comfort style bike instead .. Wide handlebars, big seat , etc. Sorry this is so long got carried away .. Thank You , Don j.
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#5
(06-07-2010, 03:28 AM)xerxes Wrote:  [ ... ]
The threaded hole in the crank arms, into which the puller fits, is standard for all cotterless cranks.
Nope, that is not completely right if you look at older bikes: There is also Zeus (I think it was) and Stronglight and TA, they both have a larger diameter of 23.3 or somesuch (and Zeus and Stronglight differ by .2mm or something like that). Those cranksets are only found on classic bikes these days.
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#6
Wow I must have been tired meant to put a link to the Park CWP-7. http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP-7
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#7
Quote:There is also Zeus (I think it was) and Stronglight and TA, they both have a larger diameter of 23.3 or somesuch

You're going back a bit there, TA and Stronglight are still going and you still see Stronglight stuff around, I have a headset. You don't come across TA much any more and sadly I think Zeus are no longer.

I think that "one size fits all" is a fairly safe assumption for anything post 1970. Smile
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#8
Quote:Depending on the age of the bicycle, you may find that the bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge type, in which case you will have to replace the whole unit

Not strictly true, some cartridge BBs can be taken apart and new bearings bought for a fraction of the price (though I wouldn't bother if it's a very cheap one). It generally requires a pair of mole grips and a bit of effort, but I've done it to my mate's old square taper and one of my ISIS BBs. You'll also need to know where you can find a cartridge bearing supplier as it's generally easier to hand them the old ones and ask them to sell you new ones than trawl through the internet to find the right bearings.

This doesn't work with all BBs, but if it's otherwise going in the skip you might as well give it a go.
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#9
Quote:Not strictly true, some cartridge BBs can be taken apart and new bearings bought for a fraction of the price

Picky, picky, picky - should I hire a solicitor to check my posts for over-generalisations?
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#10
haha. Sorry man I wasn't having a go. I'm just saying that if it's heading in the general direction of the bin he might as well attack it and see if he can replace the bearings, what's he got to loose?

I'm just one of those people who prefers to fix stuff rather than throw it away, I've saved a fortune in chainguide rollers and pedals by doing this pedals (took some old grindy loose-bearing pedals and serviced them, extending their life by almost a year; most people would have thrown them out) .
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#11
(06-07-2010, 10:04 PM)JonB Wrote:  haha. Sorry man I wasn't having a go. I'm just saying that if it's heading in the general direction of the bin he might as well attack it and see if he can replace the bearings, what's he got to loose?

I'm just one of those people who prefers to fix stuff rather than throw it away, I've saved a fortune in chainguide rollers and pedals by doing this pedals (took some old grindy loose-bearing pedals and serviced them, extending their life by almost a year; most people would have thrown them out) .

Hello Jon , I'm the same way sorta . Would rather fix something than replace it. In some cases . If I think it will last for 5 years rather than forever I'll pick 5 years depending on the price..

Thanks again for the help , Don
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#12
(06-07-2010, 05:11 PM)xerxes Wrote:  
Quote:There is also Zeus (I think it was) and Stronglight and TA, they both have a larger diameter of 23.3 or somesuch

You're going back a bit there, TA and Stronglight are still going and you still see Stronglight stuff around, I have a headset. You don't come across TA much any more and sadly I think Zeus are no longer.

I think that "one size fits all" is a fairly safe assumption for anything post 1970. Smile

Make that '80... especially the French kept using weird threads and whatnot. I have an old Peugeot road bike, ~76. Nothing is "standard" there (except the spacing of the fork and the rear dropouts and I changed the latter myself, I also threaded the dérailleur hanger)... fortunately my LBS lets me borrow their Stronlight extractor every now and then. I just figured I'll tell others who want to overhaul an older bike that there were different things around.
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