I recently bought and 1972 Peuguot 10 speed. While riding the bike the rear hub will come out of the forks. I have tried to adjust the tightness but it seems after a short ride to "jump" out of place.
Is this my rear end or could it be my frame?
now, thats a real problem! can you show us some pics of your dropouts and hub? that will help us figure it out.
Get on your bad pedalscooter and ride!
This is probably due to the drop outs being in poor condition, the faces may be damaged, bent, or the slots opened up or the track nut faces may be damaged.
Sometimes a larger washer inside the track nut or new track nuts will solve the problem, but usually you have to try to restore the drop outs as near as pos to their original condition.
If the slot is opened up or bent (this should be a smooth 3/8" width for it's full length) gently, gently, tap it back using my fav tool, a Birmingham screwdriver (hammer). I have done this many times and never yet broken one, but there is a first time, if it does break you can get it replaced at a frame builder, if you can find one! and are willing to pay the price.
Important! if you do use the hammer, never do it on a cold day or preheat the metal slightly, a hair dryer will do.
Could be a bad quick release skewer (or stripped axle nut/axle)
Yes 10-4 to striped nut or axle or loose hub. Check both very carefully. The only way that I can see a bolted assembly coming loose is if the bolt does not hold, is not properly tightened, or not seating squarely.
As an aside does anyone know why the rear dropouts on my road bike have a plate held in place by a screw plate in them that stops the rear axle from moving all the way back on the drive side? I may remove it and see if a longer wheelbase slows the steering some.
The derailer has a separate frame hanger, so its not a hanger plate.
Never Give Up!!!
To the OP... make sure that the serrations on the flange of the axle nut are not worn away.
George.. those are adjustable and used to ensure that your wheel (axle) sits in the dropouts evenly Front to Back so that the wheel tracks true.
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
YE But. :-))
Only one side has the adjustable stop the drive side. The other side adjusts to where the drive side axle stops leaving a gap between it and the end of the dropout of about 3/4 inch. This puts the entire axle at the front of the dropout. The wheel tracks true if its between the brake pads, the axle is where it get locked.
SOooo if I took the stop out I could pull the axle back lengthening the wheelbase.
Maybe thats part of what they do help tuning the wheelbase length fast for racing slower for touring??? OR something to do with the derailer.
Never Give Up!!!
Yes, it is possible that the axle and/or nuts are stripped, but I would expect this to be fairly obvious on nutting up. BUT, a major point to watch out for when buying new track nuts is, what is the thread on your axle.
Rear axles can be either 3/8" cycle thread or 10mm. (14mm. on some BMX) and both appear the same to the eye. The older the bike, the more likely it is to be 3/8", newer bikes are probably 10mm. but both sizes are still in use so it is necessary to be very careful when fitting new nuts.
First try a 3/8", if this fits you are OK as this will not fit a 10mm. but a 10mm. will fit both sizes and appear to hold but will fail under load if fitted to a 3/8" axle.
It is even worse on the front as these can be either 5/16", 9mm. 3/8" or 10mm.
Incidentally, the steering response on a bike is down to the forks, the longer the rake and radius, the softer the steering, modern bikes tend to have straighter forks and can be very twitchy.
Ye there is more to fitting axle nuts and cones than just 5/16 or 3/8, 8mm or 10mm. Thats only the basics the thread patterns are many. I went through a whole bunch of nuts of correct size but the threads did not work. Finally bought a new complete axle, but than had problems with dust covers and seals not sealing tightly so I used o-rings to close the gap. Ye wheels are considered expendable and in a shop cheaper to replace than fix..
As per handling ,yes a lot of it is done at the front end with geometry.The rake , trail and length can be changed.
However varying the length of wheelbase also has effects. The racing bikes had 39-40" wheelbase and the touring bikes 40-42" . It was more than just the fork angle. Thats more or less typical.
Never Give Up!!!
(Ye there is more to fitting axle nuts and cones than just 5/16 or 3/8, 8mm or 10mm. Thats only the basics the thread patterns are many. I went through a whole bunch of nuts of correct size but the threads did not work.)
Thats because imperial size axles are threaded with British Standard Cycle Thread and will only be obtainable from a LBD and not a hardware store!
The shields on better quality wheels are part of the hub and do not usually need replacing with the axle, on cheaper wheels they are part of the axle assembly and it is almost impossible to find axles incorporating a shield in the spares market, if you are lucky the old shield will fit the new cone!
Nah never mind what imperial standards you got there in the UK. There were a lot of other thread patterns out there from French, Italians, Japanese and USA.
The axle nuts I went through were in a do it yourself bikerowave bike shop with boxes of used bike parts. None of the special axle nuts fit my Fuji or Schwinn axle. Several LBD had no parts at all and suggested replacing the wheel. For them with labor its cheaper.
As per shields and seals , my Fuji and Schwinn had very nice automotive/motorcycle type seals. These are usually available at seal and bearing shops and replaceable, if you can find one locally nower days. Replacing my worn cones with cones that worked (thread wise) but were of smaller OD resulted in a gap since I could not find a seal shop locally to get different seals I used o-rings on the cones to fill the gap. Shields do not do hell of a lot and good bikes use replaceable seals or currently sealed bearings. Shields that I have seen are also removable from the hub.Other variables are cone length which may require different shimming to fit dropouts. AND the beat goes on. Next time I may have to replace the wheel, for lock of parts. Bummer.
Never Give Up!!!