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Removing pedals with allen key
#1
Hi, I am trying to pack my bike for travel and cannot get my pedals off. I know that the left side pedal is reverse threaded etc so am pretty sure I am trying to loosen them the correct way on each side. But both pedals are stuck fast and I dare not force it in case I crack the crank. Any good way of loosening pedals which are screwed on too tight?
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#2
everyone always says righty tighty lefty loosey, but for me, ive found its easier to remember clockwise tightens it, anticlockwise loosens it. this is how i had to teach my left-handed 6 yr old, who says we need a clock in the shop to remind himSmile. in this case, the one side is backwards like you said.it seems so simple, but you'd be surprised after working on stuff for 30 years how often i gotta think about a clock.
if this isn't your problem, PB Blaster is the best penetrant ive ever used. well, besides a hot wrench maybe.
Get on your bad pedalscooter and ride!
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#3
I stand behind the bike, put my belly on the seat, put my left foot on the left pedal and rotate it so it's closest to me (or at the bottom of the stroke), put the wrench on the right pedal so the handle is between me and the pedal, and push down on the wrench while my left foot keeps the crank from moving. The right pedal is removed by mirroring the operation. I do it this way so I don't have to remember which way to turn the wrench...always just push down. All the crank manufacturers say to tighten the pedals to 60 in-lbs, which seems extremely tight to me. I get them slightly tighter than finger tight because the action of pedaling naturally tightens them, and then they're easier to remove later.
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#4
^Wot he said!

If they're fairly tight, then use a spanner rather than an Allen Key. The only real way to get them off if they're stuck is a lot of Man strength. When you put them back on, whack some copper grease on the threads, stops them seizing. I also don't tighten mine up that hard either. I do it finger-tight, then just a little bit more until it offers resistance. They won't fall off in a hurry.

dave, 60 in-lb? Really? What pedals are you buying? my Downhill pedals aren't specced at more than 40 (not that they ever get it)
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#5
Ooooh, thanks for calling me out...I'm way off. The manual for my FSA crank says to torque pedals to 29-34 Nm, which is actually closer to 265 in-pounds Big Grin Must've been thinking disc brake bolts when I said 60. Wink

I have no idea why they have them so high. I tried to do it once and I couldn't even hold the crank firm enough to get to that torque. I've never looked at the torque rating for the pedals themselves, though. The important one would be the crank, because if you strip that you're replacing at least a crank arm.

Oh, and definitely grease the threads every time you install the pedals.
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#6
Yep, like JonB says, finger tight and just a little more. Any more you stress the threads on the pedal axle.
GO RIDE...
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#7
Yeah I'm with you guys. I had to take a look at my bikes because I'm no expert but I have never heard of an Allen key used on pedals. Mine are all older bikes though. Smile

And I am reminded that Park's pedal wrench is just a wrench (or spanner in UK speak), no Allen key.

But I definitely have the clockwise, counter-clockwise thing down pat after 40 years of wrenching or so. Smile Back in the 50s and 60s Chrysler products used to have reverse threads on their wheels and that got a little disconcerting. But I learned after breaking a few bolts first. Smile

Steve
Junkyard Tools rescued from the junkyard!
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#8
Some pedals have a hex key on the end of the shaft to accept a hex wrench.
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#9
Well I learn something new everyday. Smile

Steve
Junkyard Tools rescued from the junkyard!
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#10
There is a allen wrench made just for that type of pedal. I know Pedro's makes one, probably Park as well. Just makes it easier to get leverage and more control.
GO RIDE...
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#11
In case anyone is wondering why a pedal wouldn't have flats for a pedal wrench... on some higher-end pedals where weight is a factor of the marketing hype, the spindle is made as small as possible (saving several thousand grams, I'm sure ;-) ) which is then too small for a wrench flat. Thus the allen on the end of the spindle. Cool, huh?
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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#12
Maybe you could forget about the pedals and just remove the crank arms? Probably will need a crank arm remover though
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#13
Thanks everyone for your replies. I simply couldn't do it with my multitool but ended up finding a friend with an allen wrench. They were on so tight that it still took us a few minutes and standing on the wrench to unscrew them. Next time, I will hand tighten plus a little more! Anyway my bike and I made it to the Phuket safely!

Thanks again
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#14
Glad you got the pedals off. Ye the multi tool is defiantly to wimpy for big jobs,

I always recommend spraying a real penetrating oil , like "Liquid Wrench" (although any oil you got is worth trying first) on parts to be dismantled. Best done a day ahead if rusty and give it a sharp rap once in a while. Saves a lot of bruised knuckles and stripped parts.

Learn to work with your fingertips on small fasteners. Its not about as hard as you can get it. That breaks bolts. I usually only use a torque wrench on things needing specific load such as thrust bearings, or equally balanced all around like a engine head.
If you use a torque wrench learn to use it properly and "warm" it up first by clicking it a few times on tight bolts or bolts in a vise to make sure it moves and is loose. No need with beam torque wrenches.
No substitute for experience. Ye I broke a few things when I was learning. :-))
Never Give Up!!!
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