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Off by one shift notch
I am very happy to say that I got as far as getting gears 1 thru 7 on my back wheel working after replacing my wheel (for the very first time). Now I have one small problem. Each click moves the chain by one gear beautifully but to get into the lowest gear (largest sprocket) I have to go beyond the last notch and really yank on the twist grip shifter. Sometimes it stays there, sometimes it does not. Conversely when I shift all the way to the smallest gear I have an extra click while it stays in that highest gear.

I have been playing around way to much with the "H" and "L" screws. Is it possible that I need to either tighten or loosen the cable itself to get synced up? I have the cable pretty tight but I think it would be possible to get it tighter.


Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
do you have a shimano rear derail and cassette
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Yes. It says "Cera Shimano" on it.

Jim Lee

(04-10-2011, 01:05 PM)painkiller Wrote:  do you have a shimano rear derail and cassette
they put gripshift with shimano all the time, but I think the ratio is off abit.
try resetting your high and low limit again like this
disconnect cable again
screw in adjuster knobs on shifter and derailluer
set cage pulley just off center towards the outside of smallest cog looking from the rear
then set the pulley perfectly above the the largest cog
make sure all cable housing are secured in their notches
attach cable to derailluer tight as possible. make sure not to push the derailluer while doing this
note: make sure your shifter is in the right position
if you set your cable good now it should shift to the next gear
now while in the next gear turn out your barrel adjuster on your derailuer a 1/4 turn at time
until you hear it wanting to hit the next gear then back off on notch at time till the sound stops
then try running through the gears now up and down and all around
let me know if that helps
also my experience with a grip shift shimano combo is a feel thing
when you shift go beyond the click just a bit
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
You just need to tighten up the cable to get the derailleur to move on that first click. The H and L screws are probably not the issue. These are set to stop the movement of the derailleur from going beyond the innermost and outermost cog regardless of cable tension.
dear Dave M. we may have lost the person who made this post. but I have to differ with you on the importance of the H and L settings
for with a relaxed derailluer sets the ratio for all other shifts. it is the most important setting.
What he describes is the classic syndrome with mixing gripshifters with shimano rear setups,
so what he needs to find is his optimum starting point.
which is what I tried to convey.Rule number 1 do not mix brands of shifters, cogs, derailluers,chains just because manufacturers do it does not always make a perfect ride.
Not everybody has endless cash. But if you do I recommend tossing on some rapidfire
or high-end top mount shifters and do what should have been done in the first place
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
I hear what you're saying about gripshift, but they are mixed with shimano drivetrains on millions of bikes and work reasonably well. I think the problem with them is that they use a lot of plastic and have a ratchet system that allows for a lot of play. Although the ratio is correct, the shifters don't lock into the right position very well.

I don't want to get into some big argument over it. But I want to disagree with what I think you are saying about the limit (H & L) screws because this seems to be a common misconception. The limit screws just set the end points of how far the derailleur can move at either extreme. They set the inner and outer "limit" of movement. They have zero effect on how the derailleur moves between the individual gears and the don't affect "the ratio for all other shifts". That is purely controlled by the cable tension.

I think this confuses people because at the highest and lowest gear the limit screws can mess up the ability of the derailleur to go into those gears properly. If a limit screw is too far in, it will stop the chain from shifting into the innermost or outermost gear, even if the cable tension is set correctly. Conversely, sometimes people think their limits are set right because the derailleur sits in the right place under the inner and outer cog. Actually it may be that the derailleur sits in the right place because the tension is adjusted right, but the limits are too far out and if you force the shifter you can get the derailleur to move beyond it's proper range.

Apologies if I'm misunderstanding you. I just see a lot of people saying "it won't shift between gear 3 and 4 so I'm playing with the limit screws" which will have zero effect.
I absolutely agree with you on the middle gears thing. It would be nice to hear what changes sasjzl made or not. but we have not heard back. I just think the industry has cheapened itself on doing
the old mix and match components thing on what they call entry level bikes. I hope I did not give him
bad advice, just tried to give a quick step by step that might help. I do not even know he has ever even worked on a bike before.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"

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