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Upgrading brake/gear levers
#1
I have an Avanti Cadent 1 which carries the Shimano 105 groupset apart from the brakes which are Tiagra.

The gear cables exit the levers from the side. I want to tidy up the front end by updating the levers so I can run the gear cables under the bar tape.

Can I just replace the levers with the new 105 or even Ultegra levers or is it more complicated than that?

Basically I suppose what I am asking is if the new 105 or Ultegra levers are compatible with the older model 105 gears and Tiagra brakes. Will I have to change the whole groupset to upgrade?

I am new to this site so if this has already been answered excuse me and point me in the right direction.

All help appreciated.

Al.
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#2
Depends. If the number of gears is the same then you can replace them, they should be compatible.
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#3
+1; it is all about the number of gears.
Nigel
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#4
(06-14-2011, 07:32 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  +1; it is all about the number of gears.

Thanks fellas. It is a Shimano 10 speed cassette on the back so no problem with the number of gears. I was thinking more along the lines of how far the derailleur moves when the lever is flicked. I have done more research and it seems there might be a problem with the front changer and its relationship with the change lever. The rear should be ok and I might get away with just changing the front derailleur and the levers.

Might also upgrade the Tiagra brakes to 105's while I am at it.

Problem is when you get the disease called "upgradeitis" you have to stop when you reach the stage when it would have been cheaper to buy a new bike! :-)

Al.
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#5
Al; we all need multiple bikes........ and many projects Smile
Nigel
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#6
(06-15-2011, 03:47 AM)oldal Wrote:  Problem is when you get the disease called "upgradeitis" you have to stop when you reach the stage when it would have been cheaper to buy a new bike! :-)
Al.
I call BS on that, Al. Perhaps you're only in the Chronic stage and still in denial. It always turns Acute and is usually untreatable. Wink

On a serious note, tho... Does your current bar have indentions or creases on the face to lay the housing in before re-wrapping?
If you're used to a round bar on top, it can feel way wrong to have that cable under the tape poking out to your knuckles.
That's when I bought a grooved bar. Right before I realized that it was easier to maintain the way it was ... and my tape clashed... and... I think that was my tipping point. Acute, baby! Smile
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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#7
(06-15-2011, 11:22 PM)RobAR Wrote:  
(06-15-2011, 03:47 AM)oldal Wrote:  Problem is when you get the disease called "upgradeitis" you have to stop when you reach the stage when it would have been cheaper to buy a new bike! :-)
Al.
I call BS on that, Al. Perhaps you're only in the Chronic stage and still in denial. It always turns Acute and is usually untreatable. Wink

On a serious note, tho... Does your current bar have indentions or creases on the face to lay the housing in before re-wrapping?
If you're used to a round bar on top, it can feel way wrong to have that cable under the tape poking out to your knuckles.
That's when I bought a grooved bar. Right before I realized that it was easier to maintain the way it was ... and my tape clashed... and... I think that was my tipping point. Acute, baby! Smile

Funny you should say that RobAR. I was thinking that a grooved bar or a bar with internal routing would be the go. And seeing as I am replacing the bar I may as will replace the stem. Now I don't want alloy again so a nice carbon bar and stem set would be good. Could get some carbon water bottle holders to match. My SPD-SL pedals are silver so some nice black Dura-Ace carbon ones would match beautifully. Then there is.........................aaargh. Gotta stop.

Al.
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#8
Hm, a note on the carbon bar and stem: You do have a torque wrench, don't you?
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#9
(06-16-2011, 08:03 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  Hm, a note on the carbon bar and stem: You do have a torque wrench, don't you?

Yes Joe. I also ride dirt motor bikes and I have a very accurate torque wrench with very low tolerances. I use it to tighten my carbon seat post into the carbon frame and anything else that touches the carbon. I am still coming to grips with servicing something made of carbon and treat it with great respect!

Al.
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#10
OK, all fitted and all well. The bars have a groove along the back which fitted the cables quite well. The rear works a treat while the front is a bit stiff. Changes ok but more pressure needed on the lever than the standard set up;

Most important is the cables are now tucked in behind the bar tape giving the front end a much neater look and I can now finish a 35klm scratch race in .005 seconds than I usually do:-)

I think a new 5700 front changer is the way to go. Fairly cheap to buy and might make all the difference.

Al.
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