Quite an ad! WD 40 works great for motorbike switches and a great pressure lube on clutch and front brake cables with a screw down cable Luber. I have always used it for wiping down steel and alloy frames after a ride and as a chain lube it's great.Bit dubious about perfumed/save the planet lubes in tiny bottles.
Also used for psoriasis/migraine and those unwelcome female problems.
WD40 is falling out of favor after lengthy presence in the market. It turns into a gummy residue over time.
If its all you have, it use it. It does work.
However there are better more specific products that do not leave a black gummy residue.
Mechanics working on vintage motorcycles swear by Kroil. Liquid wrench works good too.
The home brew is best if you work a lot on rusty bikes.
I always spray the night before taking things apart. Use all in a ventilated space.
"Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Type of penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ................................ 516 pounds
WD-40 ............................ 238 pounds
PB Blaster .......................214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Never Give Up!!!
You try to get acetone now! I used WD 40 in workshops in Bermuda for 18 years. Humidity there in summer is over 80 percent and the electrics and especially the switches on the Police motorcycles I repaired and maintained had a problem after losing their silicone grease due to heat and humidity. I used to flood the switches until the WD ran clear and solved a big problem and the failure rate dropped away. I know it's the thing now to slag it off with the other brands, but that is what I had and it was great. Also keeps a neat glow on the bores of a Beretta o/u!
Ye for sure acetone may be hard to get in some parts of the world. Try beauty supply places, its nail polish remover.:-)) Its great final cleaner for mechanical assembly. Denatured alcohol and (Ransom) Lighter fluid is good to, for small parts. Kerosene, and WD will do in a pinch. Been told WD is kerosene and oil mix? It was originally used as water displacer.
As per WD , ye I used it for a long time cause it was available, now I use more specific products such as electrics cleaner spray followed by silicone spray. If apart I use die electric Silicone Grease, a favorite for keeping British electrics going. Been used on electrics in hot engine compartments and did not melt. Teflon spray is great for cables etc.....
Never Give Up!!!
I am sure you and some others on this list are aware of safe way to use chemicals. However some are new and learning and it is always good to make sure they know it too. At least on my watch.
ANND .... as KC says read the labels........
Never Give Up!!!