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Headset parts
#1
I recently bought a new 1" headset for my bike. Unfortunately the fork was too long for the headtube, so the LBS cut the thread a little bit longer for me. The upshot is that there is a little bit too much thread for headset. The LBS advised that I could add spacers - which I have done. The new headset's lock nut is a little thinner however the old headset's lock nut is somewhat more substantial and makes up the gap effectively. My question is can I use the lock nut from the old headset?

also there are three headset spacers on this threaded fork see pic ; 2 x 5mm and an alloy one . Is that advisable or could i get another keyed ring etc?
many thanks
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#2
What you have will work fine, the appearance is not great, but function will be ok.
Nigel
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#3
thanks Nigel.. though none of those bits have as yet been greased or tightened... so not too late to change!!
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#4
Hi

So as I understand it you the fork is now wrong length for head set and the threads ended above the bike head tube. So the dealer added more threads so it can be tightened?
Now the fork also sticks too high out of the frame?

If so you can carefully cut it down to the length you need. Put all your needed spacers and nuts on mark the length and cut.Look carefully at the top nut as it has a lip in it. Make sure to put the nut below the cut first and than after cutting spin it off to fix the threads.

Ye you can use a bunch of spacers if you do not want to cut the fork, as the top nut acts as a lock nut so it needs to be tight..

You can reuse the old nut if the threads work.
Never Give Up!!!
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#5
that's fantastic thank you! Incidentally if I cut a little bit too long is it safe to file it down?
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#6
Yes, file, smooth and debur
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#7
can I debur with a round file? I don't have a reamer

Many thanks
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#8
(10-06-2011, 10:08 AM)LeonardLeatherhead Wrote:  can I debur with a round file? I don't have a reamer

Many thanks

yes for the inside. For the outside, a flat file works best, and for the end of the threads a small triangular file.
Nigel
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#9
Yep 1-4 to what Nigel said.
Better too long than too short. AS I said before put the nut on first than file as you need. Taking the nut off will clean up the threads. Run it back and forth a few times to make sure it threads smoothly and evenly. Make sure you get a tight fit against the spacers.If needed put on an extra spacer.
Never Give Up!!!
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#10
You may want to consider getting something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Guide-1-Inch-Threaded/dp/B001CJXAOQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1317946744&sr=1-9

I will not attempt to cut a stem without a tool like this - just can't saw straight enough without a guide. My LBS (Wheel Away) used this tool to cut down a fork for my Miyata 310 project for me.
Nigel
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#11
Nice tool. I use one of these.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100015820&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100015820
Never Give Up!!!
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#12
One of these is still my choice over the tubing cutter only because once in a while I will have have to cut carbon forks. I find the clean up and finishing
times to be about the same with either way. this tool and proper blades may cost a little more but you can do any fork threaded or not and any material
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-SG-6-Threadless-Guide/dp/B000C17P7I/
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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