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Project Fuji
#1
Time to create another custom street burner.
The Goal: Come in as close to 20lbs or less as possible
The Budget: $2000.00 or less
Bike type: Custom built UrbanX machine 14spd
Purpose: Parking deck racing, sidewalk slalom, paved downhilling

I have had my eye on this frame from Nashbar for quite sometime. When they dropped the price to $109 I grabbed a 19 incher.Pleasant surprise
it also came with a Ritchey sealed Headset about a $60 buck savings off the bat.
I will give it my favorite 14spd setup with Nos Deore top-mount thumb shifters and 39t / 52t double ring up front. Carbon integrated stem and bar, carbon fork, Ti-carbon BB as I will be counting grams on this build like a Diabetic.
I will post my progress along the way. I just hope I will not have to have a pilots license to ride it when I am done! This will be my last build for me because the way I figure it, I am 51 years old and only have 15 or 20
years of good thrashing and crashing left in me!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#2
keep us posted. Smile

are you 1960 vintage like me, or 1959 ?
Nigel
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#3
1960 Nigel, easier to keep track of
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#4
Heh, Heh, yeou young whooper snapers yous.:-)

Nice MB frame, how much does it weigh to start. Twenty lb MB is very ambitious, that's in very nice road bike territory, like vintage Schwinn Paramount Racers. Drooling here.

BTW Very nice paint job.
Never Give Up!!!
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#5
(10-04-2011, 04:01 AM)painkiller Wrote:  1960 Nigel, easier to keep track of

ditto Smile
Nigel
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#6
The 19 in. Fuji Suncrest frame comes at 3.9 Lbs
I weighed it on my Digital food scale in Grams and in pounds and took the average. Grams were 1758 and pounds were 4.1
My fork should come in @ 1.25 pounds uncut
and my Ritchey carbon pro seatpost comes in @ 264 grams or 9 3/8 oz.
so roughly 6 lbs. for frame, fork, headset, and seatpost
To save cash I will have to use a NOS Exage Motion Bio-Pace double crank @ 1.938 lbs. but may swap to heat-treated titanium rings for an extra shave in grams
wheels, cogs, chains, pedals are hard to shave weight off in-expensively
Thats where I am so far
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#7
Wheelsmith XL15 spokes ??
Nigel
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#8
tell me more about them Nigel I am not familiar with them. I really need my wheels to come in as light as possible. I have heard about some type of composite spokes that are as light as aluminum but three times stronger. open to all advice to high quality gram saving components
Thanks for the help



(10-04-2011, 11:24 PM)painkiller Wrote:  tell me more about them Nigel I am not familiar with them. I really need my wheels to come in as light as possible. I have heard about some type of composite spokes that are as light as aluminum but three times stronger. open to all advice to high quality gram saving components
Thanks for the help

Have you ever used aluminum nipples and are they durable?
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#9
Nice bike fella. I especially like the form of the seat stays. I think you might struggle to bring this in under 20lbs but its possible. I have used integrated carbon bar stem and they're not as light as they make out only a couple of grams lighter than some alloy stem and handlebar. A lighter set-up is using ITM The Stem with a 140 gram alloy or Easton carbon bar. I run one chainring set-up on the front so no need for front derailleur, shifter and cable or you can use a carbon set-up. Most of the carbon bottom brackets are not that light either, the Miche Pista Primato BB is lighter than those with its cro-mo spindle and alloy body and cups. I have found that the lightest wheel set-up is any Mavic rims for v brake with Xtr M950 hubs. The lightest tyre out there is the Schwalbe Kojak 26x1.35. The XTR shadow is probably the lightest rear derailleur out there. Have a look at the KCNC brakeset, not the cheapest but probably the best value for money when you think of the weight that thing saves and the WOW factor from admirerers. Dont feel Im criticising you but encoraging and just offering some general tips really because I build sub 20 lb bikes all the time. I have a magnesium frame using gears that weigh just under 8kgs and I min the process of running it as a single speed and other mods should make it 7kgs. For more lightweight ideas visit weighweenies.com but please dont let your final bill £5k like some o these guys.
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#10
thanks for the the tips and advice. The schwalbe Kojak were my choice, Still stuck using 7 speed hubs.And will have a look at those brakes. I would like to stick to the Double for the extra range because I ride with a few roadies and still have to pull hills.I will be looking at all bars and stems closely. In the end it will not kill me if it comes in a little over 20lbs. I will still have fun thrashing, trashing, and crashing it any way
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#11
(10-04-2011, 11:24 PM)painkiller Wrote:  tell me more about them Nigel I am not familiar with them.

http://www.wheelsmith.com/spokes_xl15.html

tricky for building a wheel because of their extremely low torsional rigidity - they'll wind up just looking at them...

I'd stick with the nickel plated brass nipples because of aluminum's tendency to gall with stainless steel.

One of my friends built a wheel with titanium spokes - swears that he'll never do that again. They stretch and stretch and stretch.....
Nigel
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#12
hcjg1 really hit the mark on the perfect brakeset for the Fuji project thanks again!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#13
That is a great looking frame WITH headset! Wish we had such deals. By the way does anyone on the site remember a UNIVEGA? I had one in 1988 complete with the earlier Dura Ace. It was a great bike and the only thing I did was to have wheels made for me in Long Beach CA when I was there for a week ( and shimano clipless ) I never see ads for this bike or company, but the bike is still on the road in Virginia.
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#14
I have an early 80s univega Arrow Pace Thats pretty much just a frame now. It will be single speed project in the future. about the company I do not know if they are around or not but they did put some nice bikes out for sure.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#15
(10-09-2011, 11:01 AM)painkiller Wrote:  I have an early 80s univega Arrow Pace Thats pretty much just a frame now. It will be single speed project in the future. about the company I do not know if they are around or not but they did put some nice bikes out for sure.

Do you have a pic. of the frame? Does not really matter, the frames were usually good. Thanks.
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#16
Here is my Univega. Took in on trade about 15 yrs ago and used it as a loaner when the customer needed one. The paint is still really nice and the bike just needs a little love
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#17
thanks for the info.
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#18
(10-09-2011, 10:45 AM)painkiller Wrote:  hcjg1 really hit the mark on the perfect brakeset for the Fuji project thanks again!

sweet fella just sweet cant wait to see that finished. have a look at the Miche Pista Primato BB. it cost £13.00 from Wiggle Cycles. Its much lighter, smoother and cheaper than a whole lot of these other BB's that are being marketed as lightweight and cost an arm and a leg. the cups are adjustable and because its specifically a track item there are no ridges on the cups so they leave the frame looking smooth.
have you thought about using 700c wheels?
thats what i use on my jump bike and i find the roadies trying to avoid me when they are going out. since switching from 26 to 700 i think my pace has increased significantly and i'm a roadies worst nightmare.
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#19
http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-2785.html
here is the link to my 700c 21 to 14spd conversion. I just sold it last sat. for $400 and the guy e-mailed again to tell me how much he loves it. It was my main cruiser. That will buy those brakes and a seatpost for the Fuji.
I want to stick with the 26 in because of the hard pounding I will put this bike thru.I think the mavic xc717 rims will work fine. thanks for tips
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#20
Update : Parts are slowly coming in. I have made a parts list of actual and projected weights of parts that I do not have in my hand yet. I think I am on target for 20LBs or under and $2000.oo or under. Last calculations bring me in @ 17. 8 LBs
I have been able to stick to about 3 manufacturers of components to make the bike seem as though factory spec Frankenstein. As far as beauty well, that would be in eyes of the beholder. A fine balance between sturdy quality components and grams and dollars. Where I come from I would say that the bike will be quite " fugglie " at best. We shall see
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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