Hi everyone!...I am new to the Forum and I hope to meet new people and learn a lot about my bike. I am glad I found this place.
After a looonngg time I decided to go back into cycling . I used to do it a lot (who don't?) back in the days and I mainly owned road bikes. I am interest on participating in different cycling events but I know I need to work hard to get back in shape and be able to keep up with the pace . I like the mountain bikes and owned a few in the past years but not really used them ..the last one I bought it about 2 yers ago and used it only twice.. I am not really crazy about them . I enjoy way more the road bikes. So I went out for the hunt and found this beauty.
I Don't Know the Specs of the bike I just fell in love with her at first sight. I was really settled for a much cheaper one but It was going to need lots of work and more $$ to get up and running good....so The seller showed me this one and I just got it. He wanted $150 for her but I ended up paying $110. I think I did good. She is a beauty ..no rust already tuned up...it just needs some upgrades.. I am already looking for new pedals , saddle , lights ,and water bottle cage for now...later I may upgrade the brakes levers. Do u guys have any suggestion?. Here are some pics.
Let me know what you think!
Very pretty bike.
For upgrades, I would start with seat, tires (belted to avoid flats), and brake pads (http://harriscyclery.net/product/kool-stop-continental-salmon-brake-479.htm
). These things will probably have the biggest impact on performance/comfort without spending too much and are mostly things that need replacing occasionally anyway. Maybe better bar tape unless you usually wear gloves anyway.
One note, it looks like the bike has steel rims (as opposed to aluminum). You will never get great braking with steel rims, especially if it is at all wet out. Changing to aluminum wheels will give you better responsiveness, a lighter bike, and much better breaking, but it's a pretty big upgrade.
I would ride it a little to get a feel for what kind of hand positions you like best before changing the brake levers. The brake extensions so you can ride on the flat part of the bars ("suicide levers"!) don't work very well but are better than riding without the brake under your hands. There are other solutions if you like riding on the upper part of the bar, but can get a little complicated depending on how much flexibility you want.
But most important - just get out and ride. The bike looks like it's in great shape. Unless something isn't working, don't worry about upgrades first thing, worry about riding. You'll get much stronger very quickly if you put a little time in. Have fun...
Thanks for your input Dave ..and yes...the tires were one of my first thoughts because I really don't want to get out there seriously and get a flat ....but I am clueless about type, brand, sizes and cost on everything I am not even sure if is a 10 or 12 speed bike or the year of it I do know it says on the front logo "Schwinn Chicago" and it has some numbers under the word Chicago.
I also thought about the Handlebar tape as well ...I want to change to a much better one ..more comfortable even though I am going to use gloves. I would appreciate some advice on some not too expensive brands.
BTW the link is not working for me...
The tire size will be written directly on the side of the tires. 99% sure you have 27" x 1 1/4. But double check before you buy anything. To count speeds, count the number of gears in the back and multiply by number in the front. It looks like you have a 10 speed, but hard to see in the photo.
On brake pads, what everyone seems to agree is best is Kool Stop Salmons. There's a couple versions depending on how they mount to your brakes. I think the style you need are the "continental" ones. Google it and you'll find it. Just don't buy whatever no-name pads your local bike shop offers for $2 a piece.
On bar tape, I like basic "cork" tape. Any bike shop should have something for $5-$10. You don't need the fancy stuff. It's got a little padding, will keep your hands dry if your not wearing gloves, and comes in every color. Just don't get white as it will pick up dirt and grime very quick and become "grey".
On tires, there's a lot to choose from. For durability, I really like Schwalbe Marathons, Continental Gatorskins, and Specialized Armadillos. However, none of these are cheap. $30 - $50 each. There are a lot of others out there and most bike shops will have something for $15 - $30. You want something with a kevlar belt. Maybe some of the other commenters here will post their recommendations.
However, if the tires on the bike now are in good shape (no cracks in the sidewalls, plenty of tread left), there is another option. You can get tubes called "thorn resistant tubes" for $5 - $10 each. Basically just a tube with much thicker rubber. They're a bit heavy, but on this bike you won't really notice and they are a lot more durable than a regular tube. Option C is something called "tire liners" (Mr. Tuffy is the biggest brand). These are tough strips that go inside your tire on top of the tube and give you the equivalent of a belted tire. I don't recommend them for super high pressure racing tires, but that's not what you're doing anyway. One nice thing is that these don't wear out, so you can move them from one tire to another as you wear out tires. I probably prefer the tire liners over the thick tubes, but they're a little trickier to install.
On saddles, the newer gender specific saddles should be an improvement. But be warned that saddles are very personal. What one person says is great will be very uncomfortable to someone else, and higher price does not necessarily mean more comfortable. The best thing is if you have a shop that happens to have a few installed on bikes and will let you ride around the block to try it out. Unfortunately, there's no science to figuring what fits you best, you've just got to try some. Also note that if you haven't ridden in a long time, your butt's not going to like any saddle at first. It will get a lot more comfortable as your body gets used to it. That said, if the seat is still hurting after a week or two of regular rides, try something else. If should feel comfortable pretty quick or it probably doesn't fit you well.
Hi all, Dave, you hit about all nails on the head with your primo advice. One thing about saddles you will remember is the small cut out for the perennial nerves on ladies saddles. I fitted a second hand Brookes ladies saddle and with careful adjustment and a dose of Brookes saddle treatment, it was a great saddle and she puts miles on it. But as you said , it is a personal thing, but don't get taken in by a salesman! There are some great online advice sites for saddles and choice. I hope you enjoy your bike and get that " bond ".
Hello again and thank you very much Dave for your advice...thank you Ghost also for your input. I have already purchased a new Saddle...and it is way better. I am happy with it for now. Haven't been to a long ride yet to really test it....but I am planning on doing so in a few days to see how it goes . I am also replacing the handlebar tape , tires (just went to a bike shop and got regulars) ...I am hoping to get new pedals(these kind of hurt a little)and also brake pads by next weekend ....hopefully!.
There is a moderate/ leisurely (rookie) event coming up next weekend I hope I can make it... Any suggestions or should I practice some more before participating on any of these events even if they are just for fun ?...
I will post new pics as soon as I make some significant progress
Thank you again.
I think that you got a very good deal on your bike. I believe that you will find a sticker on the seat tube that says something about chrome-moly or cro-mo or something similar and/or 4130, and possibly double butted or dbl btd or similar.
Your bike is a higher (better) level bike than my World Tourist http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-3216.html
IMHO, the most important thing to replace is the brakes; the stock ones are SCARY. Tektro R556 or R559 NUTTED will bolt on (need new brake cables), the recessed nut style of the R556/R559 require some minor drilling of the fork and frame.
As others noted, alloy wheels will significantly improve braking performance, especially in the wet. Before you do that though, you should plan out what you want to do with the bike. If I had planned better, I would have spent a lot less on my World Tourist, and would have had better components.
Your bike's frame is definitely worth hanging on to; if it fits you. Ride it around awhile, and then decide what you want to do and how much you want to spend.
Hi nfmisso..thanks for your suggestions. I want the bike for long rides...and to participate in different cycling events. Of course I need to get in shape first....so I am doing the upgrades bit by bit and if everything goes well maybe in the future I will get myself a brand new super hot road bike. Fortunately everything on this bike is in very good working condition and just want to change some stuff to make the ride more comfortable.
As far as the brakes I am just changing the pads for now.
I do want a new set of pedals an I have 2 models in mind but don't know which one to get. The price difference is only a couple of dollars....and I think the only significant difference is the weight .
Which one would you guys recommend between these 2 ?
Depends on your shoe width. The lower pictured ones will work well with wider shoes, with or without cleats for the clipless system.
Are you comfortable with you feet clipped into the pedals? Some people are, some like me, in the traffic here are not. Everyone I know who uses clipless pedals (strange name for the ones that you clip into), has fallen at least once when they could not get their foot out fast enough.
How long is long? My commute is 12 miles each way; I do not consider that long anymore.
Upgrading is a VERY expensive route. Really, upgrading is a hobby that like most hobbies makes no economic sense, and the costs are even worse if you go the LBS route instead of CL, eBay and Amazon. But then you have to know what you want, and if it will work on your bike. Upgrading this bike will give you the skills needed to assemble a Bike Direct or Nashbar bike, which are excellent deals.
That said, one of my hobbies is building bikes up from older frames:
three of the five are presently rideable
Is the frame structurally intact? I would overhaul all bearings including bottom bracket and head and replace as needed. I would remove all components and deep clean. Probably take a serious look at cables and housings with an eye to replacement. Next, I would check wheels for true. I would look for bent spokes. All in all, in other words, the most basic of the mechanical fundamentals. Does the bike deserve anything less?
Then I would worry about pedals, tires, saddle and such. And how do I intend to actually use the bike beyond project?...there is always that.
I like the red Miyata frame you got...do u have that on running or still working on it? U have some nice rides there.. Congrats!
And yes...I like those pedals because of the double side ...I think I am going with the second set, they are heavier but they look more comfy....and later on I may try the clipless side..
I am getting back into biking after a long time.. so it is going to take me a little to be able to go long distances or keep a consistent medium to fast pace ...but I am hoping by next summer be able to make at least 15-20MPH or more if possible... right now I think I am not able to make even 5MPH... lol
Hi Tim...thank you very much for your advice.. Yes the bike is in very very good shape no bents spokes it changes gears smoothly and all....and no noises..... as a matter of fact I dropped her off yesterday at my local bike shop across the street for them to look at it and double check.....change the tires and let me know whats the most important things she needs. As soon as the guy saw her he made the comment that he could see that she havent been ridden much.
Regarding handle bar position (and seat position for that matter) - only you can decide. For the first few rides, it is always a good idea to have the tools along to adjust both.
It is likely that as you get more used to riding, you will want to raise the saddle until your leg is almost straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke, and you'll want to lower your handle bars.
The length of your first rides are going to be governed by how long your rear end can take it; not by your conditioning. You have to toughen up your rear, which may take a month or more of solid regular riding.
You may find that saddle too cushy, and it will start to hurt because it is not interfacing with just your sit bones. If you look at the pictures of my SR and World Tourist, you will notice that my saddles are narrow. I am planning on swapping the one on the Tandem for something narrower in the near future. I am a BIG guy, and several people have commented in amazement that the most comfortable saddles for me a narrow and hard. They are also smooth over the edges, no seams or stitching near the corners. My wife on the other hand has tried at least a half dozen saddles ranging from a women specific Terry Liberator to a Schwinn tractor style. She settled on a Bell Dart Saddle http://www.amazon.com/Bell-1006442-Dart-Saddle/dp/B0048FOTGE/
with a gel pad on top. She absolutely hated the Liberator with the hole in the middle - it pinched her.
I hated the Dart because of the seam right at the corner, between the light grey and dark grey that really irritated my thighs.
Be careful with braking. The brakes are not very good - in fact dismal by current standards. Also the levers extending from the main brake levers are called "suicide levers" for a reason.
(10-18-2011, 02:28 PM)Giulianna23 Wrote: BTW I am planning on going for a easy ride either Friday or Sat by myself for the first time .. I have been just riding her around the block in the neighborhood for the past days. How long of a ride should I do?.. 3, 4 5 miles?... I haven't riden in a while but I have been going to the gym for the past 2 months and I do 25-35 minutes medium to intense cardio + at least 20 minutes weights and crunches...almost everyday. I know its not the same but just to give you an idea.
5 miles at an easy pace is really not that far, go for it. But that said, rather than focus on a mileage, I'd say pick out destinations, someplace fun, or convenient and ride there. Pushing yourself is easier when you have a "real" goal instead of just a arbitrary number you're trying to hit. Go run an errand, go get a coffee somewhere, etc.
As others have said though, your limit will probably be more set by seat comfort, your back or shoulders getting tired, etc. Your legs are probably strong enough to go 25 miles, it's the other stuff that needs to strengthen up. At the gym, doing a little upper body strength training and some ab/back work if you can. Good for your cycling and good for your general health also.
I think your bars are actually at a good angle. Having the bottom of the bar flat is more for if you ride in a deep crouch with your elbows bent. For the normal rider, better to have your wrists straight when your holding the bar.
The usual looking-at-this-through-the-internet caveats apply:
I think there is or was fit problem here, specifically hyper extension on the top: the bars appear to have been changed to short-reach compacts, the saddle is nosed down. That's okay and standard mitigation, but the real way to test the fit as it is is to spend time on the bike, not miles per se. You should know whether there is a fit problem within an hour, easily as your fingers will get numb and back of your neck will feel pinched. If it's not fitting, you'll get the "I don't like this" feeling soon. Nitto Dove or Albatross type bars are possibilities and even trekking or mustache bars, depending in where the brake levers are put. Again, I don't know how the bike is to be used.
Oh yeah, there are better, slightly more modern brake systems out there. That I'm sure of.
So I went to a rail trail for a 8 mile ride yesterday with my son more than likely for recreation.. even though it was at a very easy pace with some sprints in between at the end my right shoulder was bothering me. I went this morning as well by myself and did about 5 miles at an average 13MPH steady pedaling with some sprints in between as well reaching a speed of 17MPH according to the speedometer... it was a bit windy so I think I did well... I was impress with myself after so many years of not doing this..
The temperature was perfect... no discomfort with the saddle yet... but I will raise it a little for better leg extension. My right shoulder still bothers a little and my lower back its kind of sore but I think it will go away after getting use to riding. I was really bothered alot with the resting position. my palms were hurting after a few minutes of placing the hands on the bar. Should I wear gloves with some padding or integrate some aerobars?...
Wear cycling gloves, apart from making your hands more comfortable and having a bit more padding, it will protect your hands from a fall. Check your handlebar height and I notice you have a short stem on your bars. Getting used to cycling takes time, but the advice about padded cycling shorts stands true. I never cycle without them. Best of luck.
+1 on the cycling gloves, I get a Bell brand pair from Target that work fine for me.
Also get a water bottle cage; it is easy to become dehydrated when riding; for your son too.
Soreness - at the start it is a good idea to push on one day, then take it very easy on the next. When I started riding all the way to work, on Monday I'd ride all the way both ways (24 miles total for the day), then on Tuesday I'd ride to the light rail, take the train, then ride the rest of the way (5 miles total for the day), Wed & Fri like Mon, Thurs like Tues; and some light riding on the week end. In a few weeks, no more train
and more money for hobbies