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Converting to Threadless
#1
I'm working on a bike and I'm wanting to convert the headset from threaded to threadless. I don't know anything about threadless and I've disassembled the old threaded headset which was 1". What do I do?
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#2
you do realize you have to replace the fork and stem and maybe even the bars right?
Stop, give us more detail and some pics and we can go from there. if all you really want is a different stem,they have adapters for that to go from a quill to threadless style
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#3
I'm aiming to make this bike an entry-level road racing bike as most everything will have to be replaced.

I have considered that a new fork would probably be in order. I have some road bars with a stem that my uncle gave me that I think is 1-1/4. The current threaded fork has a 1" steerer with v-brake/center-pull mounts. I'll post some pics soon.
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#4
With what you say so far, your new fork should also be for a 1" threadless steer tube that will work with the type brakes you will be using.The stem is to large if it is what you say. If your headset is fine and would like to play around with stems and fit,try one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Threaded-Threadless-Quill-Adapter/dp/B0037N6PEC
this would be your lowest cost way to do it.
But before you start to waste money get those pics posted!
Here is what a 1" Quill to 1" 1/8 would look like. It offers a wide range of choices in rise and extension to custom fit the bike to you as best you can
here ya go!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#5
I changed from a 1 inch quill to a thread less type stem using an adapter and had good results. You might see it on the bike section. It is a neat solution.
Cycle the streets of Bristol!
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#6
I strongly suggest you follow PK's suggestion.

Converting completely to threadless is expensive, and if no real benefit.
Nigel
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#7
I'm having trouble uploading here so here you can see what I have and what I want to go to. The stem is 1-1/8 on the new bars.

http://www.tumblr.com/blog/capner2112
Sorry that link doesn't work... Working on it.....
This should work this time

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.325903707453146.75598.100001005574231&type=1&l=dfd70d4e07
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#8
This is an informative thread, I wish I had seen it before I posted my current question. I think all the answers are on this thread.

Yes, I found the Origin8 quill stem adapter on Amazon, I think there are plenty others out there too, I think I saw several on Nashbar.

Hastily posted a new question on this today...research using the search this website box above is a good first option, agreed?

Thanks
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#9
I have an old road bike with a 1" threaded fork with a broken dropout. Nashbar had a sale and I picked up a replacement threaded fork. What I failed to realize is that the threads are only on the top couple inches or so of the steerer. I ordered this fork with a fairly long steerer and it is obvious that when it is cut to length, there will not be any threaded tube left.
The bike has the original headset and I was going to replace that. I have a threadless stem (1 inch) tucked away somewhere, so I could go either way.
So if I obtained a 1" threadless headset, plus my 1" threadless stem, and with the fork cut to the proper length (thus making it now a threadless fork!), any reason that shouldn't work?

Thanks folks.
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#10
I've never heard anything definitive, but the going theory seems to be that this is fine as long as the fork is long enough that there are no threads left where the stem will clamp on or below.
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#11
(06-07-2013, 06:26 PM)jf21557 Wrote:  I have an old road bike with a 1" threaded fork with a broken dropout. Nashbar had a sale and I picked up a replacement threaded fork. What I failed to realize is that the threads are only on the top couple inches or so of the steerer. I ordered this fork with a fairly long steerer and it is obvious that when it is cut to length, there will not be any threaded tube left.
The bike has the original headset and I was going to replace that. I have a threadless stem (1 inch) tucked away somewhere, so I could go either way.
So if I obtained a 1" threadless headset, plus my 1" threadless stem, and with the fork cut to the proper length (thus making it now a threadless fork!), any reason that shouldn't work?

Thanks folks.

Sorry, will not work due to different construction.

One option that I am aware of; have the for threaded further. using this http://www.parktool.com/product/fork-threading-set-fts-1 or similar.

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-FTS-1-Fork-Threading/dp/B0006JHXOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1370661512&sr=1-1&keywords=FTS-1

Many good local bike shops have one.
Nigel
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#12
I'm not I see why though. If a fork has no threads (left) doesn't that make it a threadless fork? What I think I did was basically buy a threadless fork, but virtue of it being so long that cutting it to length made it so. Maybe that is too simplistic so if I'm missing something please let me know.
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#13
they are not quite the same diameter/tolerance nor design intent.

Compare one of each very closely, and measure with an instrument with ±.001" resolution.
Nigel
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#14
Fair enough, and thank you for the explanation. Forks and headsets aren't components where close enough will do so I appreciate your insight. I'll ask my LBSs if they have that tool and weigh the cost of that vs. the hassle of returning. In the meantime I've been having such a blast on my SS I've hardly missed my geared bike on the DL so no worries if this waits a tad longer.

John
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#15
Can someone help me, I've got this cheap full suspensions mountain bike and I want to change to threadless if possible. Do I just need to get the quill stem? Also the guy told me I could never convert it to quick release because it's bolt on and the bolt on is slanted at an angle, is this true what he said?thanks.
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/3324501.htm
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#16
(02-14-2014, 06:08 PM)Blackwell1988 Wrote:  Can someone help me, I've got this cheap full suspensions mountain bike and I want to change to threadless if possible. Do I just need to get the quill stem? Also the guy told me I could never convert it to quick release because it's bolt on and the bolt on is slanted at an angle, is this true what he said?thanks.
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/3324501.htm
Why do you want to convert to threadless? To completely convert to threadless will be more expensive than purchasing a new bike that is already threadless. If you just want to use threadless style stems (see Painkillers post above); you can purchase a quill stem adapter for a very reasonable price, you still need a stem to match the bars you plan to use.

The "guy" has no knowledge. You can replace the axle in your hubs with Q/R axles (they have a hole in the center), and purchase Q/R levers. Replacing the axle is basically the same as replacing the bearing balls, so replace the bearing balls at the same time. You will need cone wrenches and standard metric open end wrenches - usually 17 or 18mm. The new axles need to have the same threading as the old axles, and will be shorter so as not to protrude.

Or for more money, you can just replace the whole wheel.
Nigel
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#17
Oh I see, I didn't realise it would be so expensive to make it threadless, I wanted to change it because the handle bars and stem look shitty and wanted to upgrade it but perhaps I shall just leave the headset alone and get new handlebars, and threaded forks instead. Yea he basically said if it was a bolt on type wheel which slotted in vertically then it could be converted to QR but because mine slots in at an angle apparently it couldn't. Okay cool So are you saying I could buy a new QR wheel and just slot it straight onto my bolt on bike? Hers's another pic of the bike

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-RALEIGH-ACTIV-MISSION-MEN-FULL-SUSPENSION-FRONT-DISC-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-ARGOS-250-/261271740945?nma=true&si=SlLWDQLWWMs5VhzDmLDVkLPBiiw%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
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#18
Any place that has a bolt on wheel, a Q/R wheel will work.

The link to ebay is no value for a picture, you need to take a close up to the particular area of your bike to show what you have.

Here is one of my bikes; currently equipped with Q/R wheels
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/dianemisso/Red%20Bike%20110609/IMG_0691.jpg
It came from the factory with bolt on wheels.
Nigel
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#19
Okay Nigel thanks pal I will take some pictures. Thanks for your help man
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