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Building bamboo bike
#1
I am currently in the makes of a bamboo bike. I have already finished the frame. However, I am having a problem piecing it together. It has a 1-1/8" threadless headset, 68mm english bottom bracket and 130 OLD rear wheel.
Weight, price, and efficiency is my goal. I am currently trying to find out what type o combination of gear ratio, wheels, cranks, and type of fork would be suitable for NYC riding. Thanks in advanced!
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#2
Are you talking single speed/fixie or derailleur or IGH (which can be fixie or freewheel)?

Are looing for heavy, expensive and energy absorbing - or the opposite?

The least expensive route is to purchase a bike with all the components you want and swap the frames.
Nigel
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#3
i am usually on a 8 speed with big treads but now that i got this bamboo bike i want to save on weight and be efficient. how if fix riding in the city? i have only tried it 3 or 4 blocks. thanks guys & girls
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#4
Depends on the city: In San Francisco (USA), MArburg (GER) or Bern (SUI) I'd rather not use a fixed gear bike or even one without shifters. Tyres with tread patterns make no sense on the road, only off-road, keep that in mind.
For wheels, you'd want to build something sensible, depending on tyres and gear selected. Mid range hubs, sensible rims (not too cheap), laced cross three with stainless double butted spokes.
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#5
I was thinking of a couple of options. How are carbon fiber forks? I wanted to get thinner treads. Although, I'm not sure what size tires to get. I was also thinking about a 3 speed internal hub because my back drop outs don't have a derailleur extension. I was also thinking about the gates carbon drive. I'm a mess, I bike in NYC btw.
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#6
You can always do a search for derailleur hangers that attach to the axle. Found on lower grade bikes.
Never Give Up!!!
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#7
Carbon forks are ok, but the cheap ones are too stiff and uncomfortable.
Carbon drive requires a very stiff frame built very precise. There's framebuilders who do that, but they have tons of experience and equipment (and in fact build first, then measure the very critical alignment and decide if they can ship this one with a carbon drive or just the regular stuff).
3 speed internally geared is good enough for a city bike in my opinion. I don't like the brakes there (back pedalling to brake...), but there's options for stuff (I guess).
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#8
Thanks for the replies they have been useful filtering out what I need to buy to apply for my bike.
Though I still will have many more questions. I just got this bottom bracket in the mail, http://www.planetcyclery.com/bottom-brackets/shimano-sm-bb4600-english-thread-bottom-bracket-cups/ , not from the website but i would like to know what crankset would be compatible. I was looking at a couple of different choices. I was going to purchase a vintage schwinn crankset but i was told it wouldn't apply to my bottom bracket. I don't want to be stuck with parts I won't use considering I am trying to fit a budget. I am looking for a crankset that will support a cassette possibly for a 8 speed setup or a single speed I am still unsure what to equip this bike with! Thanks again for the replies.
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#9
There are VERY VERY few cranks that work with that bottom bracket - and all are what I would consider expensive.

Google: "hollowtech ii crank"

You also need special tools for installation.

Generally, people choose their crankset, then get a compatible BB, and some cranksets come with BBs. Cranksets are the expensive part, and determine the type and width (Hollowtech II has only one width) needed for the BB.

Here are the least expensive Hollowtech II cranksets.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_cb_?sf=sbc&rh=i%3Asporting%2Cn%3A3375251%2Ck%3AHollowtech+II%2Cp_4%3AShimano%2Cp_36%3A12535​57011&bbn=3375251&sort=price&keywords=Hollowtech+II&ie=UTF8&qid=1342662686
Nigel
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#10
I want to buy a front fork but i have some concerns.
Is it strange to apply a suspension fork with a lock switch along with a single speed?
Would it also be okay to use 26" wheels on a 700c front fork?
Is 100mm of hub spacing enough clearance for a 26" bike?
I have a pair of stock specialized wheels from a 2002 hardrock hardtail.
I also want to convert it to a freewheel single speed. Would that be possible?
If so what equipment would I need? It currently has a 8 speed cassette on it.
or Would I have to just buy a new set of wheels?
My rear dropouts supports 130 OLD
Thanks for your replies.
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#11
What I meant was is 100mm of hub spacing enough to clear for a 26" front wheel?
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#12
Consider using the "edit post" feature...

Now, some answers. They can be wrapped up as "depends". Fork depends on the use. For some applications a suspension fork makes no sense, for others it is important.
You could (in principle) use 26" wheels in a 28" fork as long as you use disc brakes. Should be ok. The specific fork you need depends on the frame geometry and wheelsize. Go and find Tim Paterek's frame building manual (old version available on his homepage for download http://www.timpaterek.com/tpmanual_pdf.htm new version for sale), or find a similar document.

100mm is the hub width. Most modern hubs have this width (road and offroad). The more important tyre clearance depends on the width between / height of the fork's blades, so without seeing the fork I cannot say more.

To convert the freehub to a single speeder you could either just leave the cassette on (cheapest solution, looks not as clean) or get a stack of spacers, take the cassette apart and use the sprocket you want together with the spacers. You cannot put a freewheel on a freehub.
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#13
Just to add to Joe's comments.

There are lots of things to consider when selecting a fork for a frame, you might want to do some research on the subject:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry

http://www.google.co.uk/webhp?hl=en&tab=ww#hl=en&newwindow=1&safe=off&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=bicycle+steering+geometry

A little bit "out" may be OK, but if it's too far out the steering will feel all wrong and the bicycle won't feel nice to ride.

I recently bought a frame and forks separately, the frame was an early 90s steel MTB frame designed for rigid, non suspension corrected forks. The first forks I first tried were 410mm axle to crown and were too long. You would think this would make the steering feel sluggish, as it decreases the head angle, and increases the trail and while this is true, it also increased the tendency for wheel flop which made the steering twitchy, especially at slow, maneuvering speeds. I tried some forks with a 390mm axle to crown length, just 20mm shorter, and now the steering feels right - nice and neutral, not too quick, not too slow and without excessive wheel flop.

If I were you, I would look at frames with a (very) similar geometry to yours and use forks with similar dimensions to those being used with those frames.
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#14
I just wanted to comment on the idea of the 3-speed hub! That would be ideal as there are only 3 gears to worry about. From owning a couple 3speeds I absolutely adore the moderate gear range. Smile . In NYC one can compare it to London... not a lot of hilly areas and they are made for stop and go situations.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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