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Change E-mount to standard Bottom Bracket?
#1
So if I have an E-mount (Tange e-type?) cartridge that is 68x110, what size normal UN-55 would I need? 68x110 or 68x113 to compensate for the removed 3mm thick e-plate that supports the front derailleur?
Obviously I need a front derailleur.
The existing BB looks like the drive side spindle is recessed to compensate for the thickness of the e-plate, but I'm guessing.
Here's the plate:
[Image: EmountText.jpg]
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#2
Jef. Unless your seat-tube is some funky shape that demands a E-mount - get rid of it. E Drlrs were a pipe dream for some Shimano engineer boss that thought it would help with sticky mud. It did.
If it makes you feel better - get a new BB that is 2mm shorter. Keeping your current shouldn't present a problem.
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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#3
(08-14-2012, 02:57 PM)RobAR Wrote:  Jef. Unless your seat-tube is some funky shape that demands a E-mount - get rid of it. E Drlrs were a pipe dream for some Shimano engineer boss that thought it would help with sticky mud. It did.
If it makes you feel better - get a new BB that is 2mm shorter. Keeping your current shouldn't present a problem.
Yeah, that's what I meant. If I get rid of the e-type mount plate & go to a normal (non-E) UN55 BB, would I stay with a 68x110mm? The original BB was a tange of that size, but it had the "E" stamped on it. It looked like the drive side spindle is recessed to compensate for the thickness of the e-plate.
So after I've removed the 3mm e-plate, do I install a UN-55 68x110mm or do I get a longer 68x113 to make up for the deleted 3mm thick e-plate?
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#4
OK, I figured:
1) The old Tange BB measures 111mm, + the e-plate (between the frame & the BB) of 3mm.
2) So double the 3mm because the Shimano BB is symetrical gives me 117 measured.

I went with a UN-55 68 x 118. WRONG! My measured chain line has increased by almost 4mm. [size=large]Oops![/size] I should have got a 68 x 110mm.

So, if you have one of these mountain bikes, with an e-plate front derailleur mount, and you need to change the BB to a new non e-type:
Go with the same size BB, (the spindle on the drive side on E-type Bottom Brackets is offset towards the non-drive side to compensate for the thickness of the e-plate) and buy a new front derailleur.
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#5
great info, thanks for the update. It is not always an easy task guessing what BB you need if you do not have a few laying around to try out before making a purchase you do not need and buying again. I am kind of a pack rat when it come to things like that just for fit issues and cross checking. I rather have a drawer full of garbage than a garbage can of garbage when I could have used it for a purpose of cross checking.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#6
I am the same way, but had no cartridge BBs lying around. I tried going to local shops to figure it out, with the old BB & e-plate in hand, but I got so much attitude and wild guessing that I gave up.
I would have just pulled the BB out from another frame I have, but it is stuck fast on the drive side. I think I'm going to have to take a torch to the underside of the frame to expand the frame whenever I need to replace the BB.
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#7
(06-16-2013, 10:08 PM)1FJEF Wrote:  I am the same way, but had no cartridge BBs lying around. I tried going to local shops to figure it out, with the old BB & e-plate in hand, but I got so much attitude and wild guessing that I gave up.
I would have just pulled the BB out from another frame I have, but it is stuck fast on the drive side. I think I'm going to have to take a torch to the underside of the frame to expand the frame whenever I need to replace the BB.
I just sold a hardrock with the plastic cup on one side and it was brittle and just cracked into bits. I was planning on using an hydraulic arbor press to push the guts out and then remove the leftover junk
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#8
So force the spindle through & then how do you get out the shell?
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#9
(06-16-2013, 11:41 PM)1FJEF Wrote:  So force the spindle through & then how do you get out the shell?
well I never got that far because the guy bought it as a project bike. But the the metal side probably would have come free at that point and would be easier to soak, the rest of the plastic side would have chipped out with no problem too at that point. I still may find out as I told him I would do it if he needs. I just hope he does not mess the threads up and then bring it to me, Ha Smile
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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