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How to apply modern reversed decals
#1
Cycle Mercier set me a decal for the headtube badge on my Kilo TT. But it's not a water decal (like for scale model cars, planes, etc) or a pressure adhesive vinyl sticker. It's printed in reverse. It reminds me of the varnish decals used on motorcycles in the 60's but appears to be recently made (not NOS).

Anyone have experience with applying such a decal?

Here's pic of the front and back .
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#2
If it's what it appears to be - you need to thoroughly clean and dry the area that it is to be applied to. Remove the clear side to expose the 'sticky'. The vertical line on the brown paper side is to assist with lining it up on a tube. Working from whichever side you are most comfortable with, begin to lay it on and use a wooden stick or similar soft object to remove air entrapment (bubbles) and assure good adhesion as you move towards the other side of the decal. Don't pull the brown frontal paper off until you are done.
Am I even close??
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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#3
as rob suggests, but it is ok to use a water solution to lube out the bubbles with a plastic paddle like a bondo paddle. one drop of dish soap to spray bottle. position and squeegie on. much like tinted window film. pre prep with a wax remover first so you can clear over without risk of fish-eye.
if you are going to clear over . wet sand area with 600 to 1000 grit first. then apply, let dry, pre cleano again , tack cloth and clear. Let dry then buff with mild compound
It is best to apply a coat of clear let dry. 1000 grit the over spray edges by a quick wet sand then tack cloth and clear again to avoid over saturation and wrinkling the sticker
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#4
Right On, PK!
Mike - don't make the same mistake that I did. Upside-down decals are most definately uncool. Smile
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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#5
I hope it works for him, kinda tough without a seeing what he has exactly. But I think we are close. Right out of High school I went in to autobody, back in the day when it was common to have to lay down the old wood grain film down the side of an old country squire or a wide stripe down the rockers of a Fiat x/19. ahh the good ole days! We use the same technique
striping Cat and John Deere hoods,panels and such. If you try to apply dry you will get bubbles every time, and if applying over compound curves a little heat gun action is a must too. It does take some practice to perfect
if one has never done it before. A kiss for luck and he is on his way
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#6
Maybe it was all the enthusiasm for painting (on another thread) that got my courage up. Yesterday, I went down to the shop and applied the headtube badge decal to my urban bike.

Here's what makes it a big deal. This is new technology in the decal world. Previously, we all agreed that this reversed decal was of the old solvent type. Well, while I was shopping for gold sizing (varnish) I queried Cycle Mercier re: How to apply the decal? Their replyConfusedoak it in water & slap it on... I was hesitant. It sure looks like a solvent decal, being printed in reverse.

So yesterday I cleaned the headtube with degreaser, soaked the decal in warm water (it floated right off the backing), flipped it over and placed it... patted off the excess water and that was that. Old dog learns new trick!
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#7
I dunno, Mike. I would consider that a Waterslide decal. Wouldn't you?
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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#8
Yes, a waterslide decal, but with a new twist... printed and mounted on the backer paper in reverse.

Looks can be deceiving. I came so close to using gold sizing and applying it like a reverse varnish decal of old.
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#9
There a video on how this process is done? Sorry, I am just a curious one lol Smile .
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#10
I, personally, haven't seen a video on applying solvent/varnish decals. There are some "How to" instructions at various sites. I searched "reverse decals" and "varnish decals" when I was trying to remember the name of the solvent (Coslov; it's no longer available; too toxic) we used back then. Came up with several hits.

I suspect that solvent/varnish application wouldn't be compatible with modern paints/clear coats.
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#11
Good job, I got some decals for my motorcycle that are sandwiched between two layers. Usually you just wet them with a bit of soapy water or float in some than apply . However in this case I got inner and outer protective layers. Not sure if I should float it and than remove both layers.

Also need to take old decals off first. Usually heating with wife's hair dryer when she is not looking loosens old adhesive. BUT got to make sure its not under clear coat.

AS per solvents , yes got to be real careful, generally you can spray enamel on lacquer but not lacquer on enamel. It will lift it. Same with solvents.

I once spray painted a motorcycle nose fairing (rattle can) came out great, than I decided to clear coat it. Lifted all my paint spiderweb..........Do over.
Never Give Up!!!
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#12
Ok cool I'll try to search around see if I find any.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#13
Here is a lot of info, Bill. HTH

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTrbrxmjgqQ
Never Give Up!!!
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#14
I watched this lastnight! Guys pretty good, glad I can understand some different languages as he has a strong accent that if one is not paying attention they would miss a few key things. Never knew it was that simple to apply decals, hardest part is placing them where you want them Wink.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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