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Tools and recommended bottom bracket for my bike?
I think the time is coming where I am going to have to change the bottom bracket. I have a Roadmaster Mt. Fury 26" men's mountain bike r4416wmgt. Can someone suggest the proper replacement bracket and tools needed for the change?

Hi Josephine;

We'll need close up pictures of the left side (opposite the chain) in the area of where the BB attaches to the bike.

It is looks like this;
I would have a very hard time investing in the tools needed.

This one in the picture is a one piece crank. If you have a three piece cotterless crank, then it is worth repairing or replacement.

The first tool you'll need is a crank puller:

Then you'll need a bottom bracket tool, of which there are three or four different common types, and dozens of un-common types. Picture needed to make a recommendation. I currently have four different BB tools.
This is the one she was talking about in another post Wink . . That does look like a one piece but I can't see it close enough to ascertain the right kind.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
Definitely one piece in the picture Bill.
[attachment=3782]Ok, here's an image. Sorry for all the rust. Practically all of the crank/ bottom bracket area is showing quite a lot of it. Anyway, hopefully, this will narrow down the tools I need and the correct bottom bracket.
With all that rust how can you even tell if the bottom bracket is the issue. The chain would be an issue for sure! And not sure how the derailleur even functions in that condition.
Hi Josephine;

Many (most?) of us on this list would not attempt to work on a 1 piece crank as you have, so I will refer you to:

It looks like you need to remove the pedals, then remove the hex nut you see in the picture, and slide everything outwards along the left crank. Take pictures so that you know how things go together.

After disassembly, you have three choices:

(1) clean up everything, grease and assemble. I use boat trailer wheel bearing grease from Wal-mart - low cost, stays in place.

(2) rebuild as is, using a kit like this:

(3a) slight upgrade, using a something like this:

(3b) or the ultimate upgrade, something like this:
with which you also need a BB cartridge like a Shimano UN54

With both 3a and 3b, you also need a crankset like:
Good links Nigel. Looking at the condition of bike. IMO go with option 1 or 2. After that the price of components comes close to buying a new bike, and you will need a lot more work soon, if not now.
Also chain needs replacing, or at least heavy cleaning .

To open pre soak pedals crank and the large end nut over night with Liquid wrench or at least wd-40. You will need a large wrench, perhaps a adjustable one.
Never Give Up!!!
Thanks, guys. I think the frame on this bike shows promise because it is about the only thing that isn't rusted. I may just upgrade components as I get the cash. The bracket still has a reasonable amount of life left, IMO, so I won't be looking at replacement probably for a couple of months yet. I may go with option 2 if it fails sooner than that and I assume only a wrench will be needed for removal and installation of the new bracket(?) if the 2nd option is chosen.

Now if I went with #3 and I still might, what additional tools would I need for installation?

Hi Josephine:

(3a) same wrench plus a 14 (or is 15 ? ) mm socket.

(3b) requires allen wrenches/keys - probably metric, but I do not know, and for installation of the BB cartridge (assuming Shimano UN54 or UN55) this or similar tool:
and the 14 or 15mm socket to install the cranks OR a big allen key, depending on the crankset you select.

If you have ever want to remove the cranks, you'll need a crank puller like a listed in my first post.
Thanks again. For now and the short term, I'm going to go with the 2nd option, but once warmer weather arrives I'm going to probably go with 3b.

I'd seriously like to get away from rusting in the future, which is why I have a question about the 3b components- are they rustproof? I don't see mention of the metals they are composed of ("they" meaning the amer to euro adapter, new bottom braket, crank, sprockets, etc). I'd also like to get a more rust resistant chain.

With the awesome links above, I would love to tackle a bike like this Big Grin . Anyways dealing with such bikes in this condition I can offer some tips too if you are going for that "short term" option. Good news is the rust will come off most of the parts and frame. Something that bugs me a little is the rust towards the "weld bead" of the tubes intersecting at the top of the bottom bracket shell. As long as there is no "deep" rust into the frame then it is feasible to fix it up. Just inspect the frame after you clean off the rust.

Way to clean it off fast is get your self a wire wheel bit for a drill if you have access to a drill, spray it down with something like 3-N-1 oil or something like that. Then on low speed hit the spots letting the wire wheel (also known as a brush) do its work.

No drill NO problem. Buy yourself a small wire brush, some packages come with 3 in a pack containing a steel wire brush. brass wire brush, and a regular plastic bristled brush. Put on the oil, rub it into the rust with the brass or steel brush, then work it for a bit, wipe it off, then repeat the process until the all the rust is gone from the frame area. After this process you will immediately be able to tell if there is pitting from the rust. At that point if the frame has been compromised with the rust eating through the frame then I would advise against trying to fix it up. See rust eats the steel (easy way to explain it) and weakens the integrity (strength). That area is vital and critical point of holding a persons weight. It collapses then you collapse with an undesirable and possible fatal end result.

If not then it is pretty easy to do touch-up painting. Now as for the parts I was talking about, is the crank. It looks to be salvageable. The nuts, bearings, bearing cups, and washers I would spend the money on replacing with the link above Nigel I believe posted.

Before taking off the crank make sure the chain is off it. Also spray it with PB blaster or WD-40.
To remove the crank you will need a pedal wrench to remove the pedal by turning it clockwise, the side shown in the picture. The size of the pedal wrench will be either 15mm or 9/16. While you have the pedal wrench in hand go ahead and remove the other pedal by turning it COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Next you will need a crescent wrench (adjustable wrench) to turn the first nut shown on your picture clockwise until it is off. Next is a nut which you probably could get away with using a flat heat (straight blade) screw driver by tapping on one of the notches to make the nut turn clockwise until it is off. As you turn the previous mentioned nut the assembly will loosen up which is normal. Try to wiggle the caged bearing assembly out of the same side. After this you can remove the crank from the other side. Do take notes on the way the assembly was taken off.

Now there is one last nut to be removed. The one that holds the one piece chain ring assembly. This nut has to be turned COUNTER CLOCKWISE to be removed. Using a flat head screw driver is not an option either! You are going to need a bench vise, hook spanner link here... . And alot of strength. After that is off then start the rust removal process as mentioned earlier on the crank, you could probably get away with using the WD-40 or PB blaster, but oil is preferable. How to do the chain ring assembly? This is not easy either, but I bought a baby bottle scrubbing brush that has the small end with the bristles (about $1.00 at a dollar store) and cleaned the crevices with that. The main point is to get all the rust off of the surface.

Now here is some more fun, lol. You have to knock out the bearing races. The two rings left that are pressed into the bottom bracket shell. To do this is pretty simple, just find a hammer and a metal rod. Insert the rod into one side of the shell touching the backside of the other side ring. Press firmly and tap it with the hammer a couple times, move to a different part of the ring tap a couple more times, and keep doing this and it will pop out. Repeat the same to knock out the other ring.

The next step is simple cleaning out the inside of where the parts go by using a couple sprays of that WD-40 or PB Blaster and that baby bottle scrub brush (the big brush) . After you clean that out immediately spray with the WD-40 or PB blaster to get out the gunkies. Have a water spray bottle with dish liquid/water mix (about 2drops dish liquid rest water) handy to spray off crank, chainrings, and the inside of the shell.
Now if you want feel free to spray paint the crank and the chain ring. Let them dry.

To install the new rings you need a tool like this... . OR MAKE ONE by reading a couple of this post... . After pressing them in you will need to put some marine bearing grease or bearing grease on the rings. Put some on the bearings too. Then reinstall your crank assembly in reverse.

Sorry if my directions are confusing but after typing all that I need a cup of coffee lol. Just asked if you are confused.

Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
Sorry, I've been down with a cold so haven't felt like doing much. Bill, thanks for the very extensive tips and instructions. I'm going to print them out should I decide to tackle this. Now I'm wondering if it's worth all the work just to install another inferior bracket (#2 in Nigel's post), or whether I should go all out with #3b. From your post, it looks like I'd still have to go through the same steps in either case. Anyway, thanks for the info.

BTW, as for the frame, I don't think there's any rust on it. I know it looks like there is in the image, but I think that's either dirt or residual rust that came off of the sprockets. I won't know for sure until I look at it this week though.

IMHO............If its sentimental and money and time does not matter than by all means go for it. Good way to learn. BUT..........
Never Give Up!!!

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