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Tools needed to remove this BB?
#1
I'm replacing the Bottom Bracket on a 1991 Bridgestone MB-3 and it looks like the bottom bracket pre-dates most of the tools I have.

Here are a a couple of pictures that I took.

On the drive train side, it's hard to see in the picture, but there are 2 flat surfaces on the BB that look like a large crescent wrench would fit. I quickly measured it to be about 38mms.

[attachment=3960]

I took the non-dt side lockring off and then came across these holes that I guess you could fit a spanner into? Seems like it's going to need a lot of force to get this off, but maybe a spanner would work.

[attachment=3959]

Looking on Sheldon Brown's site, it sounds like these are cup and ball bearings. I bought a replacement BB already that is a cartridge. Will that fit here (assuming it's the same size, etc) or do I need to stick with the cup and cone?

Any advice on getting these off would be appreciated, thanks!
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#2
Well the diameter is correct for the cartridge BB, I'm sure you matched the width, check that the drive side axle isn't too much longer than the off side. Is the bike frame 68mm wide where the BB fits?
The drive side looks like it takes a 36mm, the other side with 6 holes I haven't seen. Do the threads look backwards (right to loosen) on the off side? Will a pin spanner fit?
Someone here will know what it is. Nigel or Rob or Painkiller or somebody. If it comes to it you can go redneck/shade tree & grind 2 flats & remove the cups with a wrench of Biblical proportion. A good soaking of the threads with Kroil or a good penetrant & a pin punch should do it. That's just the cup showing on the left side I think, so it shouldn't be too tight, you've removed the lockring.
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#3
Looks like you already took the lock ring of the left (non drive side).

Take the left off with a spanner, take all the guts guts out from the left side, and the right side will come off easily.
Nigel
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#4
(02-23-2013, 04:54 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  Looks like you already took the lock ring of the left (non drive side).

Take the left off with a spanner, take all the guts guts out from the left side, and the right side will come off easily.

Well I bit the bullet and just got back from the LBS. I did some more research and it seemed like it made more sense to have them do it then buy the tools that I probably won't use again. (I'm putting in a cartridge and I have the right tool for that.)

I just measured the axel and it's a 122mm which is the same size BB I bought a few weeks ago (and you are right, 68 diamater). So, in theory, should be pretty easy from here. In theory at least!
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#5
Any issues with the old axle being offset from center?
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#6
(02-24-2013, 07:55 AM)1FJEF Wrote:  Any issues with the old axle being offset from center?

Chainline for a derailleur equipped bicycle is never perfect - a little bit one way or the other will probably not result in disaster, and may actually improve things.
Nigel
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#7
(02-24-2013, 05:24 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  
(02-24-2013, 07:55 AM)1FJEF Wrote:  Any issues with the old axle being offset from center?

Chainline for a derailleur equipped bicycle is never perfect - a little bit one way or the other will probably not result in disaster, and may actually improve things.

I didn't notice any issues once I got the cranks back on. The limit screws put the chain back on to all the rings just as it had with the old BB. The FD has a friction shifter though, so it is less precise than an index would be.

The real test was I took it out for a ride on Sunday and everything worked great.
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#8
Excellent news.
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#9
Now that I know you got it fixed, I couldn't resist it, when id doubt, hammer it out:
[Image: jackhammer.png]
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