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Is my front derailleur bent?
#21
the bike is an old 27" fuji road bike with the drop down style handlebars. never been painted, so i can see it says 12 speed and it looks like it says xxx tourer on the side, its kinda rubbed out, and the first part is under the lock holder. after a quick google, im guessing its gran tourer. one shop i went to said they were the one it was originally bought from, when it was previously under different owners, and that it was pretty old. im not sure how much of the bike is original, i know at this point quite a bit has been replaced. originally it was a regular road bike, but i had someone revamp it with hybrid tires at one point. its possible he put on the mountain derailleur, i dont remember if it was replaced then or not. the shop guy i went to this time thought the crankset that was there previously was the original, but i doubt he still has it laying around as that was almost two months ago, i cant imagine he didnt throw it out by now. oh well. it was also two gears, though. the new one is a shimano fc-a050 (52 teeth). it does look like theres a bit of extra space between the body of the bike and arms of the crankset, but i dont know if its supposed to be like that or not, i dont remember what it looked like previously. theres 7 gears in the back.

as of now, i ordered the derailleur nigel recommended, im waiting for it and a chain breaker (that might take a bit to come from hong kong...) to come and then im going to try changing that and see how that helps.

the chain is relatively new, it was changed in the past couple years, i think, but i probably should check it for stretch, as i keep it outside, so it gets wet a lot. what do i need for that? if it is stretched, does it need to be replaced?

thanks again.
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#22
(04-19-2013, 12:59 AM)RetFor Wrote:  .........what do i need for that? if it is stretched, does it need to be replaced?......

Outside storage - needs wipe down with a rag to remove dirt, followed by lubrication, TriFlow is good because it is thin enough to get in where it is needed, followed by another wipe with a rag to remove the oil from the outside of the chain - which just acts as a dirt magnet and does nothing for lubrication of the chain.

If it is stretched, you need a chain and a cassette or freewheel; and eventually new chain rings if you let it go too far. Alex has a good discussion on how to measure chain stretch and what are acceptable limits. Basically if you catch it soon enough, you just need to replace the chain, more stretch the freewheel or cassette in addition to the chain, and way too much stretch, the chain rings as well.

If you replace a cassette/freewheel - always replace the chain at the same time.

Good luck with your project Smile
Nigel
Reply
#23
(04-19-2013, 12:59 AM)RetFor Wrote:  the bike is an old 27" fuji road bike with the drop down style handlebars. never been painted, so i can see it says 12 speed and it looks like it says xxx tourer on the side, its kinda rubbed out, and the first part is under the lock holder. after a quick google, im guessing its gran tourer. one shop i went to said they were the one it was originally bought from, when it was previously under different owners, and that it was pretty old. im not sure how much of the bike is original, i know at this point quite a bit has been replaced. originally it was a regular road bike, but i had someone revamp it with hybrid tires at one point. its possible he put on the mountain derailleur, i dont remember if it was replaced then or not. the shop guy i went to this time thought the crankset that was there previously was the original, but i doubt he still has it laying around as that was almost two months ago, i cant imagine he didnt throw it out by now. oh well. it was also two gears, though. the new one is a shimano fc-a050 (52 teeth). it does look like theres a bit of extra space between the body of the bike and arms of the crankset, but i dont know if its supposed to be like that or not, i dont remember what it looked like previously. theres 7 gears in the back.

as of now, i ordered the derailleur nigel recommended, im waiting for it and a chain breaker (that might take a bit to come from hong kong...) to come and then im going to try changing that and see how that helps.

the chain is relatively new, it was changed in the past couple years, i think, but i probably should check it for stretch, as i keep it outside, so it gets wet a lot. what do i need for that? if it is stretched, does it need to be replaced?

thanks again.


Yes as it turns out I located the year of the bike. It's a 1979 Fuji Gran Tourer (Color Frost Green). No other years before 1979 used Frost Green in the Mens Frame for Gran Tourer.

here's a pic of it in the catalog.
http://www.classicfuji.com/1979_11_GranTourer&GranTourerMixte_Page.htm


As you mentioned, the front derailleur is not original which is right since the altus derailleur came later perhaps in the late 1980s or early 1990s. At at least you'll be getting a road front derailleur this time.

If the original crankset looked like the one in the catalog, it's more likely it still have the original cup and cone bottom bracket which probably never got serviced. The original cranksets were Sugino Super Maxy Cranksets which normally used a 3S, 3SS, or 3T spindle. This can either give an equivalent length of todays symmetric bottom brackets of 121mm to 123mm according to Sheldon Brown's information on bottom bracket spindles.

The Crankset Shimano FC-A050 requires the use of bottom bracket spindle length of 110mm in length in order to maintain a chainline of 43.5mm.

Basically sticking with the original bottom bracket depending on what spindle you have down there. You'll increase your chainline by 5.5mm-6.5mm.

and If you have the still the original 27inch wheels that have a 126mm dropout spacing your chainline increases. It's possible you could have 700c wheels with 126mm or 700c wheels with 130mm dropout spacing. At lease I know you mentioned you replaced your axle since rear wheels that use a freewheel cluster are weaker at the axle point so I wouldn't do any drops off of sidewalks with your bike. Yes it would be interesting to know what tire sizes you're using now i'm guessing 700cx35 since the tread pattern looks like the same tires one of my hybrid bikes are using.

As for for your crankset sticking out now with a much greater chain line, this might be more of a concern if you tend to cross chaining often, meaning you tend to ride your big gear in the front and then have it also big gear on the rear and vice a versa. This tends to put more stress on your chain and gears and may pre-maturely wear down your drive train faster.

Personal and if you are my client I would make sure you are within reasonable specs. Hey I have my own IT Computer Consulting business and I like to take care of my clients. I dislike it when other previous IT specialists does a half baked job. Therefore, I would recommend that you replace your squared tapered bottom bracket.

either
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Square-Bottom-Bracket-68x110mm/dp/B005DTIG9U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1366386930&sr=1-1&keywords=un55+110mm
$19.60

or

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BB-UN26-Square-Bracket-68x110-mm/dp/B0044ZE8GO/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1366386997&sr=1-1&keywords=un26+110mm
$12.10


make sure you select 110mm length

I would recommend the un55 since you tend to leave your bike out in the rain and it's sealed so once you install it you'll probably never have to worry about it in a long time. It's a better bottom bracket than the un26.


again it's up to you if you want to change your bottom bracket, but do note it probably needs to be serviced one way or another and why not replace it if it has never been serviced and you tend to leave the bike out in the rain. It's likely possible most of the grease is gone from the original and grinds a lot a with friction.


Again you need tools or get a LBS to do it. Personal I would get the tools since it'll be a long term investment since you can service your future bikes too which will save you money in the long run.


As for other grease recommendations, you probably already re-greased your rear and maybe front? See how the front wheel spins.

One more recommendation... since you tend to leave you bike in the rain... check if your seatpost and stem hasn't seized yet. IF it hasn't seized yet. Get it greased ASAP. The worse bondings are aluminum stems seizing to the steel fork. And if it's seized, A 2 litter of coke/pepsi can help with breaking the bond while letting it set for 7 days or greater.


As for your question concerning chain stretch, as your chain wears down from use, it kinda of stretches over time with more use. When it stretches to a certain point, the chain starts to damage/wear your gears at an accelerated rate. It normally wears down the rear gears faster than the front gears. As you continue riding with a stretched out chain that's beyond it's recommended point you won't notice anything while riding. By time you notice your gears slipping, it's too late. It's already done too much damage to your rear cluster. At that point you'll need to replace the chain and rear cluster (freewheel or cassette). It's rare that you need to replace the front crankset since that does not wear down as fast as the rear, but sometimes if you let the chain stay on too long you might need to replace the front chainrings too.... It just depends. Think of it this way, the rear has small gears than the front which means the rear gears does more rotations than the front gears especially if it is a road crankset. Therefore rear gears tends to wear down faster in most cases.


hope this helps.
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#24
haykong - nice write up. Smile

ReFor - does your bike still have the original Suntour VGT rear derailleur ?
Nigel
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#25
(04-19-2013, 07:23 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  haykong - nice write up. Smile

ReFor - does your bike still have the original Suntour VGT rear derailleur ?


Thanks Nigel Smile
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#26
(04-19-2013, 04:26 PM)haykong Wrote:  Yes as it turns out I located the year of the bike. It's a 1979 Fuji Gran Tourer (Color Frost Green). No other years before 1979 used Frost Green in the Mens Frame for Gran Tourer.

here's a pic of it in the catalog.
http://www.classicfuji.com/1979_11_GranTourer&GranTourerMixte_Page.htm

yeah, you got me curious, so i did a search and found that as well. the only thing is i thought it was 27" frame, and that one was only made up to 25". whats the frame size a measure of so i can measure it and see what i have? if one bike gives a frame size and another the wheel size how can i compare them? or do they go hand in hand?

(04-19-2013, 04:26 PM)haykong Wrote:  If the original crankset looked like the one in the catalog, it's more likely it still have the original cup and cone bottom bracket which probably never got serviced. The original cranksets were Sugino Super Maxy Cranksets which normally used a 3S, 3SS, or 3T spindle. This can either give an equivalent length of todays symmetric bottom brackets of 121mm to 123mm according to Sheldon Brown's information on bottom bracket spindles.

The Crankset Shimano FC-A050 requires the use of bottom bracket spindle length of 110mm in length in order to maintain a chainline of 43.5mm.

Basically sticking with the original bottom bracket depending on what spindle you have down there. You'll increase your chainline by 5.5mm-6.5mm.

and If you have the still the original 27inch wheels that have a 126mm dropout spacing your chainline increases. It's possible you could have 700c wheels with 126mm or 700c wheels with 130mm dropout spacing. At lease I know you mentioned you replaced your axle since rear wheels that use a freewheel cluster are weaker at the axle point so I wouldn't do any drops off of sidewalks with your bike. Yes it would be interesting to know what tire sizes you're using now i'm guessing 700cx35 since the tread pattern looks like the same tires one of my hybrid bikes are using.

As for for your crankset sticking out now with a much greater chain line, this might be more of a concern if you tend to cross chaining often, meaning you tend to ride your big gear in the front and then have it also big gear on the rear and vice a versa. This tends to put more stress on your chain and gears and may pre-maturely wear down your drive train faster.

hmm, well most of thats a bit beyond me at this point still. not sure what the bottom bracket is, ill have to do a bit of research on that when i get a chance. i do indeed have 700cx35 tires, though.

(04-19-2013, 04:26 PM)haykong Wrote:  As for other grease recommendations, you probably already re-greased your rear and maybe front? See how the front wheel spins.

the wheels and pedals seem to be spinning fine, the main problem im having now is that the chain has been slipping more and more. im not sure if its just from lack of a front derailleur or if its from chain stretch or what. but its getting to the point where the chain pops off every minute or so. makes riding almost more trouble than its worth. im not sure whether its slipping in the front or the back, though. theres no open place where i could just ride without looking for long enough to watch and see whats happening. the new derailleur should come in the next day or two, but i have no idea about the chain breaker i ordered, which is coming from hong kong. that could still take another couple weeks. oh, one thing i noticed is that sometimes while riding the gears will feel like theyre 'settling', and then the bike will ride strongly for a lil bit not feeling like its slipping, but soon after itll start feeling like its about to slip off at any second again.

(04-19-2013, 04:26 PM)haykong Wrote:  As for your question concerning chain stretch, as your chain wears down from use, it kinda of stretches over time with more use. When it stretches to a certain point, the chain starts to damage/wear your gears at an accelerated rate. It normally wears down the rear gears faster than the front gears. As you continue riding with a stretched out chain that's beyond it's recommended point you won't notice anything while riding. By time you notice your gears slipping, it's too late. It's already done too much damage to your rear cluster. At that point you'll need to replace the chain and rear cluster (freewheel or cassette). It's rare that you need to replace the front crankset since that does not wear down as fast as the rear, but sometimes if you let the chain stay on too long you might need to replace the front chainrings too.... It just depends. Think of it this way, the rear has small gears than the front which means the rear gears does more rotations than the front gears especially if it is a road crankset. Therefore rear gears tends to wear down faster in most cases.
hope this helps.

im going to try to figure how to check that tomorrow. do i need special tools to do that?


(04-19-2013, 07:23 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  ReFor - does your bike still have the original Suntour VGT rear derailleur ?

it says suntour 7gt on the side of it.
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#27
Frame Size: Well, it depends how you measure: Centre-End or centre-centre. Usually one should measure centre-centre on bikes with horizontal top tubes, as this is what ultimately defines standover height. Centre-centre means centre of BB along to the centre of top tube, centre-end is bb to end of seat tube. This sort of adds to the confusions. Then there's frames with sloping tubes. How do you assess the frame size there? Well, one thing is centre-end or maybe centre-air (to the "virtual" centre of a theoretical horizontal top tube). If measuring center-centre on such frames the numbers cannot be compared to other frames with other geometries (well, you have a hard time doing that anyways). Personally I think that the length of the frame (top tube) is at least as important as the height of it. Then there's the different seat angles you can have...
You can adjust length of the "neck" of the stem, "length" of the curvature of the drop bars but only within certain tolerances or the bike will ride weird. From your description it sounds as if the height might be ok but the bike is a bit long. Maybe go to a LBS and get a used or NOS shorter stem?

Chain wear: you can check that with a ruler / tape measure with inch markings. See the howto on htis site.
Sprocket / chain wheel wear: There do (did?) exist special tools, but with all the newfangled sprocket tooth design it is impossible to really measure it (I belive). There are photos on http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
a bit past halfway down the page. Look at your bike and compare. If the teeth are all shark-tooth like: replace!

Good luck!
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#28
(04-23-2013, 02:48 AM)RetFor Wrote:  i do indeed have 700cx35 tires, though.

oops, actually only one of them is. the other is a 700cx37.

i think ive finally figured out a good temporary solution that will stop the slipping and chain falling off. it took a lil thinking outside the box, or in this case, outside the derailleur. the one thats currently there luckily has a screw on the bottom, so i was able to remove the chain from it without a chain breaker. i did that and then lowered the derailleur and positioned it next to the smaller gear so that the outside edge of it keeps the chain in place, rather than the chain running through it. a thirty second test run seemed promising. ill have to see what happens in the morning on my way to work.
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#29
(04-24-2013, 12:08 AM)RetFor Wrote:  
(04-23-2013, 02:48 AM)RetFor Wrote:  i do indeed have 700cx35 tires, though.

oops, actually only one of them is. the other is a 700cx37.

i think ive finally figured out a good temporary solution that will stop the slipping and chain falling off. it took a lil thinking outside the box, or in this case, outside the derailleur. the one thats currently there luckily has a screw on the bottom, so i was able to remove the chain from it without a chain breaker. i did that and then lowered the derailleur and positioned it next to the smaller gear so that the outside edge of it keeps the chain in place, rather than the chain running through it. a thirty second test run seemed promising. ill have to see what happens in the morning on my way to work.


Anyway it's great you were able to get the chain out from the derailleur to at least get the bike functional again.

As for bottom bracket, it refers to the entire area that the crank arms attach to... it normally has ball bearings and grease that roll around a cup inside of it.

Anyway somehow I recall you mentioned you lived in Brooklyn right?

well I think here's a great hands on resource that you can use since you are local around there.

http://www.5bbc.org/repair.shtml

It's a 5BBC is bike club. I believe membership is $25 a year. They offer classes in bike repair to members since it's run by volunteers. So you can join their club and learn how to repair your own bike. They might even later allow you to access their tools which they might do which I think might be a value resource for you. I think it's worth looking if I was in your position.

Hope this help Smile
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#30
wow, i cant believe it, i got got the chain breaker today - but still havent received the derailleur. i ordered it 12 days ago. finally 2 days ago i got an email saying it had shipped, but it still didnt come yet. maybe tomorrow. :/

(the chain breaker took 18 days to come from the time i ordered it. not bad coming from hong kong, BEFORE the estimated arrival date from amazon. the derailleur on the other hand, is now BEYOND the ETA range.)


(04-24-2013, 12:55 AM)haykong Wrote:  Anyway it's great you were able to get the chain out from the derailleur to at least get the bike functional again.

As for bottom bracket, it refers to the entire area that the crank arms attach to... it normally has ball bearings and grease that roll around a cup inside of it.

Anyway somehow I recall you mentioned you lived in Brooklyn right?

well I think here's a great hands on resource that you can use since you are local around there.

http://www.5bbc.org/repair.shtml

It's a 5BBC is bike club. I believe membership is $25 a year. They offer classes in bike repair to members since it's run by volunteers. So you can join their club and learn how to repair your own bike. They might even later allow you to access their tools which they might do which I think might be a value resource for you. I think it's worth looking if I was in your position.

Hope this help Smile

well, sorta functional. after riding for a bit now, its still slipping a lot, though not quite as much as before. usually itll slip a lot while i accelerate, then when i get going itll feel like it 'settles' into a gear thats good and only continue to slip a little here and there. it did work to keep the chain from falling off every minute, though, which is great.

i thought that was what the bottom bracket was, but i wasnt sure. whats BB? ive seen that abbreviation some, but im not sure what it is. unless thats bottom bracket? i dont remember offhand if that would fit the context.

thanks for the suggestion of the club, btw, although i dont have the time for something like that. hopefully, once i get my chain/derailleur issues fixed i wont need to make too many repairs for a while... Wink
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#31
(04-26-2013, 08:45 PM)RetFor Wrote:  wow, i cant believe it, i got got the chain breaker today - but still havent received the derailleur. i ordered it 12 days ago. finally 2 days ago i got an email saying it had shipped, but it still didnt come yet. maybe tomorrow. :/

(the chain breaker took 18 days to come from the time i ordered it. not bad coming from hong kong, BEFORE the estimated arrival date from amazon. the derailleur on the other hand, is now BEYOND the ETA range.)


(04-24-2013, 12:55 AM)haykong Wrote:  Anyway it's great you were able to get the chain out from the derailleur to at least get the bike functional again.

As for bottom bracket, it refers to the entire area that the crank arms attach to... it normally has ball bearings and grease that roll around a cup inside of it.

Anyway somehow I recall you mentioned you lived in Brooklyn right?

well I think here's a great hands on resource that you can use since you are local around there.

http://www.5bbc.org/repair.shtml

It's a 5BBC is bike club. I believe membership is $25 a year. They offer classes in bike repair to members since it's run by volunteers. So you can join their club and learn how to repair your own bike. They might even later allow you to access their tools which they might do which I think might be a value resource for you. I think it's worth looking if I was in your position.

Hope this help Smile

well, sorta functional. after riding for a bit now, its still slipping a lot, though not quite as much as before. usually itll slip a lot while i accelerate, then when i get going itll feel like it 'settles' into a gear thats good and only continue to slip a little here and there. it did work to keep the chain from falling off every minute, though, which is great.

i thought that was what the bottom bracket was, but i wasnt sure. whats BB? ive seen that abbreviation some, but im not sure what it is. unless thats bottom bracket? i dont remember offhand if that would fit the context.

thanks for the suggestion of the club, btw, although i dont have the time for something like that. hopefully, once i get my chain/derailleur issues fixed i wont need to make too many repairs for a while... Wink


If the chain is still slipping off the entire small front chain ring and that the front derailleur is now moved up out off the way of the chain... It's very likely your chain line is too far out of line because of the bottom bracket (BB)spindle length.

If that's the case you need to replace the bottom bracket(BB) with a 110mm. Again I recommend you make time for the bike club. Unless you want to a number of tools to pull out the old bottom bracket and new tools to put more modern bottom bracket....

Question what do you mean by slipping ? Does the chain fall off the entire front chain ring? Or you feel the chain slipping on the gear? Where the pedaling feels like it jumps/slips? .. If riding it feels like it slips and jumps while the chain does not fall off the small front gear.. Please discontinue riding your bike since if you continue you will end up damaging your new crankset... You need to verify your chain stretch ...if it is stretched too far... It has already damaged your rear freewheel and will start damaging your cranked ... You will need a new chain and freewheel too if that is the case...... Do you have a tool to check for chain stretch ?


Question did you have both problems..falling off and now slipping?
You fixed the falling off problem right? Now you just experiencing slipping right?

Yeah if it just slips now .. That means your chain is really worn out and has damaged your freewheel already ... So stop riding your bike til your replace your chain and freewheel .. Or it will start damaging your new front crankset.
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#32
(04-26-2013, 09:22 PM)haykong Wrote:  If the chain is still slipping off the entire small front chain ring and that the front derailleur is now moved up out off the way of the chain... It's very likely your chain line is too far out of line because of the bottom bracket (BB)spindle length.

If that's the case you need to replace the bottom bracket(BB) with a 110mm. Again I recommend you make time for the bike club. Unless you want to a number of tools to pull out the old bottom bracket and new tools to put more modern bottom bracket....

Question what do you mean by slipping ? Does the chain fall off the entire front chain ring? Or you feel the chain slipping on the gear? Where the pedaling feels like it jumps/slips? .. If riding it feels like it slips and jumps while the chain does not fall off the small front gear.. Please discontinue riding your bike since if you continue you will end up damaging your new crankset... You need to verify your chain stretch ...if it is stretched too far... It has already damaged your rear freewheel and will start damaging your cranked ... You will need a new chain and freewheel too if that is the case...... Do you have a tool to check for chain stretch ?

well, it was falling off with the derailleur moved out of the way, so i moved the derailleur down and next to the chain (instead of the chain running through the derailleur) so that it holds the chain in place so it doesnt fall off. it hasnt fallen off since doing that, but it still feels like its slipping and jumping when pedaling harder. once i get moving i can apply pressure without it slipping, but while im getting up to speed if i apply too much pressure it skips/slips/jumps. the rear freewheel is about one year old. the chain was replaced about 2 years ago i think, but it mightve been replaced with a used one. i just checked the stretch and it seems theres about 1/16 inch of stretch. it seems thats about borderline according to the guide on this site. should i just go ahead and replace it? which one if so? for now i carefully oiled each joint, so ill see if that helps when i ride it a bit later. unfortunately, not riding it isnt really an option, i need it to get to work/get around. im trying to minimize riding it, but i need it some.
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#33
Yeah I would replace the chain and maybe even freewheel..but I think your bottom bracket should be replaced too since the chainline is too far off now with the new crankset

But first replace the chain ... If it still jumps then freewheel ....
Question was the freewheel new?
As least replace the chain this weekend if you can
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#34
(04-26-2013, 09:43 PM)haykong Wrote:  Yeah I would replace the chain and maybe even freewheel..but I think your bottom bracket should be replaced too since the chainline is too far off now with the new crankset

But first replace the chain ... If it still jumps then freewheel ....
Question was the freewheel new?
As least replace the chain this weekend if you can

actually, after oiling it it barely skipped at all when i took it out for a bit. i think it had one large skip when i made a sharp sudden turn, but other than that i think it rode quite smoothly.

the derailleur finally came today, so ill probably try putting that on tomorrow.

(the freewheel that was replaced about a year ago was new. that was a whole other story, too, the shops around here all suck, which is why i started fixing it myself.)
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#35
That's the thing... the chain.. shouldn't skip with a fairly recent freewheel and a new crankset... since you mentioned that you oiled the chain and that helped... reduced the skip besides a large skip.. might suggest that the chain has a seized link/links and or some of the links might having difficulty pivoting or the links are a bit stiff at the linking points.... since your chain looked pretty bad shape and very rusted.. that might be the possible problem. .. at this point I would just get a new chain since you already mentioned it's at the 1/16 mark.. I wouldn't bother wasting your time cleaning and trying to remove the rust off the chain because of the fact it's already at the stretched point of replacement.

Also.. at least it would be good to check if your freewheel has any sharp edges on certain gears and compare it to other gears that you don't use much... this would give you an idea if the freewheel is worn... even if it's not worn.. at least you an use it at a reference point of a non worn freewheel...and then later you can compare it when it's worn. ....
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#36
(04-28-2013, 03:48 AM)haykong Wrote:  That's the thing... the chain.. shouldn't skip with a fairly recent freewheel and a new crankset... since you mentioned that you oiled the chain and that helped... reduced the skip besides a large skip.. might suggest that the chain has a seized link/links and or some of the links might having difficulty pivoting or the links are a bit stiff at the linking points.... since your chain looked pretty bad shape and very rusted.. that might be the possible problem. .. at this point I would just get a new chain since you already mentioned it's at the 1/16 mark.. I wouldn't bother wasting your time cleaning and trying to remove the rust off the chain because of the fact it's already at the stretched point of replacement.

Also.. at least it would be good to check if your freewheel has any sharp edges on certain gears and compare it to other gears that you don't use much... this would give you an idea if the freewheel is worn... even if it's not worn.. at least you an use it at a reference point of a non worn freewheel...and then later you can compare it when it's worn. ....

would this chain work?

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-X9-93-Bicycle-9-Speed-128-Inch/dp/B001AYJF2E

thanks.
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#37
the "speed" of the chain needs to match the number of cogs in your freewheel AND the " speed" of your rear derailleur. I suggest that you look for a 7 or 8 speed chain.
Nigel
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