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Newbie needing help/guidance Trek 820
#1
My name is Jake, Im 36 and from Portland Tennessee. I haven't been on a bike in several years and was told by my Dr. that I needed to get more exercise. I started looking into mountain bikes as a good choice as a way to get exercise and to also enjoy the outdoors.

I just bought a used Trek 19" 820 MTB off of Ebay that needs some TLC. I plan on doing mostly greenway riding as well as some light trail riding. I want to replace the seat, stem, handle bars(add some extenders), grips, pedals, etc. I also want to replace any parts that are ware items like the cables, brake pads, etc. My max budget is $200 and I hope this nets me a nice bike that will last years to come.

The problem is I don't know what will fit and what wont fit as well as good brands. Im very mechanically inclined and don't mind to do all the work myself. I went to school to work on cars so I already have most hand tools I just don't have anything at all that's special to a bike. I could also use a manual if something like that even exists?

On top of all of this Im trying to find my wife a good bike as well so she can ride with me and also enjoy the outdoors, she is 5'4" and from what I read needs around a 15" frame but theres not much out there on ebay or CL. I prefer something used and a little older.

Im really excited to get my bike and start the upgrading. Thanks for any and all help, I feel as lost as last years Easter egg right now!
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#2
post some close up pics of what you have to start with, front to back
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#3
Sorry I should have stated that the bike hasn't been shipped to me yet, just trying to get a head start. Will post some pics when I finally get it.
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#4
Welcome to bike tutor. I do not understand you bought a bike that needs that much work and you want to spent $200 fixing it?
Why do you think you need to replace all those parts. Why not make it work for you and than consider upgrades. Clean and service all the bearings and cables, set it up and ride it. Do not fix whats not broken. :-)
Never Give Up!!!
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#5
Yeah, welcome!
Most of us like to get older bikes and upgrade and replace and stuff - but we know (read: learned the hard way - at least in my case) that older bikes can be a time and money sink. Getting a bike and immediately replacing everything but the frame only makes sense if it is a particularly nice frame or you got it for free (and even then...). Components do add up quite fast.

I do second George's post: Clean and service all bearings, replace the brake pads and (as needed) cables and housing and look at the wear of the drive train - maybe replace chain and cassette (depends on age of the bike and the wear on the drive train). Better to leave it alone at first and see if you really like how the bike fits and rides - and then sink a ton of money into it (after all, you have been warned now!). If you really want to upgrade a new set of wheels will set you back at least the $200 you budgeted.
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#6
shattered - welcome aboard.

As Joe notes; just the parts for a good basic set of wheels will set you back $200- minimum.

Take a look at our various projects here: http://forums.bicycletutor.com/forum-36.html

My spend has been in the range of $400- per, after getting the bike.

Does yours have a rigid or suspension fork?
Nigel
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#7
Thanks guys, I guess the best thing is to get the bike and see what it needs. I have this habit of replacing things that are prone to wear regardless of their condition. I know it definitely needs a new seat, grips, and I would like to add some extenders on the handle bars other than that it may not need anything. Also it is a rigid fork.

$200 is my max budget, I just didn't want to spend that much on a brand new bike from a department store that's not good quality and is thrown together. On a side note I don't need another money pit, I have a Jeep Wrangler that fits that bill-lol Thanks again guys, cant wait to get this bike and on the trail.
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#8
I had a Trek 830 that was a very nice bike. It got stolen. I replaced it with a 91 Schwinn High Sierra with Paramount designed aluminum frame.

I added a suspension fork to it, bar ends and a Terry saddle. It was a great improvement over the gel saddle.
For road you do not need a suspension fork, get good road type tires.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_522820_-1___
Never Give Up!!!
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#9
^ That's a nice bike, I prefer the look of the older bikes.

I got the bike on Friday and have spent the weekend cleaning it up and doing some minor adjustments. So far I have ordered a seat w/post, some handle bar ends, seat bag, and have added some new grips. The bike seems to ride and shift fine, everything seems tight and not wore out. The only other thing that I see is the brake pads are as hard as a rock but they still work.

It has all Shimano Atlus on it except the RD which has been swapped at some point to a acera X. The FD is mounted to the BB and I was wondering if it can simply be swapped out for a shimano alivio M413?

On a side note we picked up a 2002(I think) gary fisher mamba for my wife that has some issues. The BB is shot and I don't have a clue how wide it is so I can order a new one. I have the tools on the way to remove the crank and remove the old BB.

I want to replace both derailleurs and would also like to replace the crankset. Again I don't know what would work and not work? The chainring has a sticker that says SR suntour XR 120 PFF. I would like to buy all shimano alivio for it. The chainrings are larger compared to my trek but Im guessing all I have to do is count the teeth on each ring and order the same? It has 7x3 shifters on it.

Pics of both bikes in folder here~~> http://s552.photobucket.com/upload?location=Bikes

Thanks for all the help so far guys!!
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#10
(06-23-2013, 04:01 PM)shatteredsoul Wrote:  ......So far I have ordered a seat w/post, some handle bar ends, seat bag, and have added some new grips. The bike seems to ride and shift fine, everything seems tight and not wore out. The only other thing that I see is the brake pads are as hard as a rock but they still work.
seat post - hope that you measured the diameter....
brake pads - http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/

(06-23-2013, 04:01 PM)shatteredsoul Wrote:  It has all Shimano Atlus on it except the RD which has been swapped at some point to a acera X. The FD is mounted to the BB and I was wondering if it can simply be swapped out for a shimano alivio M413?

Yes, you will need to measure the diameter of the seat post, and either get a FD to match, or make/get a shim.
(06-23-2013, 04:01 PM)shatteredsoul Wrote:  On a side note we picked up a 2002(I think) gary fisher mamba for my wife that has some issues. The BB is shot and I don't have a clue how wide it is so I can order a new one. I have the tools on the way to remove the crank and remove the old BB.

I want to replace both derailleurs and would also like to replace the crankset. Again I don't know what would work and not work? The chainring has a sticker that says SR suntour XR 120 PFF. I would like to buy all shimano alivio for it. The chainrings are larger compared to my trek but Im guessing all I have to do is count the teeth on each ring and order the same? It has 7x3 shifters on it.
The BB and crankset go hand in hand; get a BB to fit the new crankset. Keep in mind that the manufacturer's recommendations are not always what you want. For example on my green GT, the Shimano crankset I bought is supposed to have a 122/123mm BB. That results in the smallest chainring in the triple working fine with the smallest cog ion the cassette, but the chain angle is extreme with the largest chain and the middle cog on the cassette. I will be replacing the BB with a 115mm soon.

You do not have the keep the same number of teeth as is current.

You should replace the cassette/freewheel and the chain at the same time as you replace the crankset. Pick a combination that works for her style of riding, and the terrain.

You don't have to keep it a 3 x 7 - you can make it anything you want - of course increasing from 7 will probably mean a new rear hub (and spokes, probably a rim). It can easily become a 2 x 7 or 1 x 7 though.
(06-23-2013, 04:01 PM)shatteredsoul Wrote:  Pics of both bikes in folder here~~> http://s552.photobucket.com/upload?location=Bikes
...
the above link is for uploading photos, not looking at them......
Nigel
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#11
Try this link, cant believe I did that~~>

http://s552.photobucket.com/user/jakemilburn/library/Bikes?sort=3&page=1

As long as I match the BB style(square) with the crankset and get the correct width and tooth count it should be ok correct?

I want to keep everything as it is now and just replace the worn out parts on her bike. The BB has so much play it has started to mess up the teeth on the crankset and cassette. Im basically just going to replace the whole drive train.

As far as my seat I bought the post together with the seat but my post is ok so worst case Ill just use the seat. Thanks for the link to the pads, that's on the short list for my bike.
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#12
Those tires will be no fun at all on the street;

I have this one on the front of my green GT:
http://www.amazon.com/Bell-26-Inch-Comfort-Bike-KEVLAR/dp/B0012RJSXK/
and these on the back:
http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Kwest-Reflective-Tire-1-50/dp/B002PTVCPQ/
http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-3167.html

The combination works well on pavement, gravel and dirt; it is not good for deep sand or deep mud. The vast majority of my riding is on pavement, with some excursions on gravel and hard pack.

Regarding crankset and BB;
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M410-Alivio-crankset-JIS-104x175mm/dp/B000GGY8ZQ/
note that it says: "Requires square taper 110mm or 113mm bottom bracket spindle"
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Square-Taper-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B0068FVOEM/
Nigel
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#13
I will have to live with the tires until I can get the POS mamba ready for my wife. The next issue I found is the rear cogs on the mamba don't appear to be cassette style and looks like they are threaded on like the older style but the bike is a 2002 and made in China.

I also found suntour on them so Im pretty sure its stock. How bad would it be to replace everything except the rear cogs until I can get her a better wheel and or hub?

Thanks again for all of your help and time, I feel like Im getting closer.
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#14
If that was mine, & I had a new seat & post I would: (the guys here will disagree on the first one)

1) New brakes & levers (at least the front) V-brake style. For under $30 you could change the front system & they come with pads. I really dislike the canti brake style you have, there are only a couple of cantis I like. Remember, you can't mix V-brakes with cantilever style brakes & visa versa.
This will get you new pads, they are easier to adjust & set up & work better IMO. I gave a couple of quick examples out of dozens of options.

2) The Womens Mamba Bottom Bracket (here is mine) . If you have an e-style, that has a 3mm thick plate, held in place by the BB, which forms the mount for the front derailleur, you have a couple of issues. I don't see it in the picture.
First, the BB is called an E type & is no longer made (at least I couldn't find one). If you want the same spacing, with the E-plate removed, buy the same size as is listed (or measured) on the BB. Don't compensate for the E plate as the E type BB has the spindle recessed 3mm, just get the same size in a standard square taper BB. I like Tange, they are more expensive, but the cup is steel & a much more snug fit. The Shimano UN55 has an aluminum cup, more slop in the cup fit & costs about $8 less. Don't try to mount a non-E BB with the E-plate intact, it has to go.
Don't buy the BB until you've done a test fit with the old BB or you might goof, as new cranksets can be tricky, your seat tube and chainring sizes will dictate the FD fit.

3) Drive train, as I think you stated it's thrashed. If it isn't, I'd leave it except for a new chain & cassette. Remember, crankset dictates BB size.

4) Did I miss something, I don't see mention of road use, so I don't understand getting road tires.

I know, I gave you advice on both bikes, oops. #1) for the Trek, #2) for the Mamba.
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#15
I think I have caused some confusion over both of these bikes. For now Im only changing the seat, adding bar extenders and maybe new brake pads on the Trek. It rides just fine thus far, I will really get a feel for it when I can actually take it for a longer trip.

The problem Im currently having is with the wifes mamba, it basically needs an all new drivetrain. I have the following parts picked out and ready to buy. I just need to figure out what kind of rear cogs/cassette will work on it and still have the same amount of teeth 13-30. As bad as Id hate to I may just have to replace everything except the rear cogs and get a better cassette style set-up later on.

So far....

Shimano FC-M171 28/38/48 crankset
Shimano alivio M413 FD
KMC z51 3/32" chain
Shimano alivio 7/8 sp RD

I will have to order the BB after I get the old one out and measure it for the correct width. All of this bike stuff is new to me but Im confident I can fix any of it as long as I can get the correct parts, there is just so many styles and brands its mind-numbing!
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#16
(06-23-2013, 09:39 PM)shatteredsoul Wrote:  I..... will have to order the BB after I get the old one out and measure it for the correct width. ......
NO !! The BB has to match the crankset - the new one you purchase, not the one currently on the bike.
(06-23-2013, 09:39 PM)shatteredsoul Wrote:  ......
The problem Im currently having is with the wifes mamba, it basically needs an all new drivetrain. I have the following parts picked out and ready to buy. I just need to figure out what kind of rear cogs/cassette will work on it and still have the same amount of teeth 13-30. As bad as Id hate to I may just have to replace everything except the rear cogs and get a better cassette style set-up later on.....
Replace the freewheel at the same time - or you likely have problems with your new chain and new crankset.

http://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Freewheels-7spd-13-28-Freewheel/dp/B002FB2Y88/

A little closer ratio is easier on the knees.
Nigel
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#17
Looking at: http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2002&Brand=Gary Fisher&Model=Mamba&Type=bike#.Ucdu-xXn9jo

It says that the 2002 Mamba is 3 x 8 with 13-30 - which is a cassette; the 2001 is 3 x 7 with 13-28 - likely freewheel; 2000 is 3 x 7 with 11-28 - which is a cassette. It the smallest cog is 11 teeth; it is a cassette. Freewheels can't go less than 13 teeth.
Nigel
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#18
Without pulling off the crankset how will I know how wide to get the BB? Wouldn't a shimano BB-UN 54 68mm x 1XXmm work? It has the same square taper as the crankset. I don't have a clue what kind of freewheel to get, all I know is its a 7 speed 13-30. Im so confused.

Sorry for so many newb questions, I only want to order this stuff once and I would like to get it all this week so we can actually go for our maiden ride Saturday.
Im not 100% sure what year it is, neither did the guy I got it from. I tried newer and older years on bikepedia.

It looks a lot like the 2002 model except its a ladies and also has a made in China sticker on it. I counted all of the teeth on everything this morning and the rear has 7 total from 13 teeth to 30 teeth.
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#19
The wide of the BB has to match the NEW crankset - you said you were replacing the crankset; so it does not matter what is currently installed in the bike. Different square taper cranksets required different BB axle lengths.

Freewheel - if it is a freewheel - close up pictures of the small cog end with the wheel off the bike is required for us to help.
Nigel
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#20
I have added a few pics here~~>

http://s552.photobucket.com/user/jakemilburn/library/Bikes?sort=3&page=1

Also I see what you are saying now about the BB sizing and found the correct size for the crankset. The only thing left is the cassette/freewheel for this heep.
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