Hey guys, I recently dug up my dad's old Peugeot PH10S from the early 80's and I'd like to do some basic repair work. I guess I should preface by saying I'm definitely a bicycle noobie but I figured this would be a great way to learn.
That said, the bike is currently ridable but the brakes are shot and it is quite dirty. The rear wheel appears to wobble a bit as well. There is also a sort of clicking noise coming from the rear derailleur I believe, but it does ride pretty well considering.
I plan on changing the brake pads (considering changing both entire brakes because I found a pair of Weinmann Type 500's on ebay but I won't bother unless it's necessary), tires, tubes and cables. I think I might need to get a new back rim because of the wobbling unless this could be something else. I also plan on giving it a thorough cleaning which I hope will clear up the sound I hear.
I'd love any advice you guys have for me from cleaning tips to any other suggestions on what parts I should replace. I'm excited to get this thing back to its former glory and hit the road!
What is your budget? If you are close to any of us, we are happy to offer assistance.
Brakes: Tektro R536 or R539; unless someday you plan to change to 700c rims, then get R556 or R559 Double check the brake reach before ordering. http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html#reach
Also decide if you want to drill your frame and fork for recessed nuts; or go with the "nutted" versions.
27x1¼ use ISO630 rim, 700c use ISO622 rim - there is 4mm difference in radius.
Wheels probably just need truing - around here $25 to $30 each at the shops - I build my own wheels and built my own truing stand. http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-3834.html
If the spoke nipples are "frozen"; you can try wicking penetrant into the nipples. I would just cut the spokes and rebuild.
If the rims are steel (check with a magnet); I would replace with aluminum - and switch to 700c.
Check for chain stretch. A new chain would not hurt.
Replace all of the cables.
Take apart, clean and regrease the bearings in both wheel hubs, the bottom bracket and headset. Make sure to preload the bearings - not to much, not to little. Should be no wobble.
I'd replace the tires, tubes and rim tape.
looks like a nice vintage bike.
As Bill said, tend to the important stuff, get the brakes sorted first, new cables and blocks are cheap, there's no point going anywhere on it if you can't stop, then check the gears, adjust them up, sort out the little niggles and also check the tyres and tubes, rubber will perish when not used, tyres and tubes aren't that expensive and you want to make the bike reliable so you'll use it.
Check the following pages, from a good Peugeot Enthusiasts site. I found some info myself when I was looking up my Peugeot Premiere specs and model year, Narrowed mine down to '85 from the decals and paint job.
Cannondale, handmade in USA............................................Refined in Surrey, England
Nigels suggestions will give you a very good bike. I must confess I like to stick with original parts as long as they are in good condition, even steel rims and not the most efficient u-brakes can be all fine. It does depend upon how much you ask of the bike of course. If the rims aren't worn down they could be fixed and tightened in a repair shop. Truing wheels and tightening spokes are of those things I leave to more experienced guys :- )
Thanks for the input. I've been busy with work so I haven't had too much time to a lot of work but I took the brakes off and gave them a thorough wipe down and also changed the cables. I had bought some pads from a local sporting shop but they weren't thick enough so I ordered some off of Amazon. I'm having a little trouble getting the brakes as tight as I think they should be. Should I be tightening them incrementally (ie, pulling the wire, tightening the nut, loosening it just a tad a pulling it tighter and so on) or just all at once. I've looked at a few guides online but they seem to be for newer brakes. Once I get the brakes right I will be ordering tires and tubes.
I would try to keep it as close to original as possible, too, though I would (very likely) replace the rims to improve braking. One thing is keeping stuff nice and "era", the other thing is having it in a non-suicidal state.
On the brakes: use high quality housing (Jagwire), that will improve things a lot. The cheaper stuff flexes when you brake. I usually back off all the cable adjustments, then squeeze the brake pads close to the rim by hand, pull the cable taut and then bolt it into place. There usually is enough slack in the cable to move the pads out a bit so the brakes do not rub when using this method. I then bring the brake pads as close to the rim without rubbing as possible, so that there is almost no travel in the brake lever before the pads engage the rim. Also make sure the pads hit the rim square-on.
I've used the regular Jaqwire compound for u-brakes on steel rims and they have worked fine. I've used others I liked too, but I can't remember either brand or model :-| The different rubbers make a big difference in the way they grip. "Fibrax Raincheater" blocks are made specifically for steel rims, and there are "leather faced" types too. If you use the old steel rims; it's hard to adjust the brake if they aren't all straight. To get the brakes right, you might need the wheels serviced (spokes tightened). The brakes should work fine even on steel rims, but make sure you don't get pads for aluminum rims. The short stubby rectangular type is easier to fit than the longer newer ones; even if it is possible. The rubber in the old brakepads have very likely hardened over the years, and needs to be replaced. They have probably next to no grip anymore (maybe they are fairly new?).
There is another active thread on brake pads right now. There is a guy mentioning the Salmon Kool Stop blocks. I might order two sets to see how they work. They are suppose to work well on steel rims.
(09-02-2013, 10:30 AM)xcalibur Wrote: I've used the regular Jaqwire compound for u-brakes on steel rims ......
I am not aware of any bikes equipped with U-brakes and steel rims.... The OP does not have U-brakes in the picture he shared, those are center pull.
The main difference being that U-brakes are mounted on posts from the frame or fork like cantis or V brakes - though the posts are in a different location relative to rim. Centerpull brakes mount with a single bolt on the fork and brake bridge of the frame.
U-brakes appeared in the late '80s on mountain bikes - it was a passing fad for them, and they are still used on BMX bikes.
Sorry, I mess up the terminology, I probably meant centerpull then. What I usually come across of older rim brakes are roughly like these pictures I found googeling.
upper one is a center pull, lower one is a single pivot side pull.
My preference with either is to replace with a dual pivot side pull brake, which is far more effective.
Thanks for the information Nigel, it's nice to get it right ;- ) I have to look more into it, googeling pictures of dual pivots didn't make it all clear to me. This is exactly the same brake which is on my old Raleigh Sports (1960s) , each brake arm move independetly, and each have a spring for them to pop back when lever is released. The whole thing is fitted with a single bot in the fork. The brake force is all fine with the right brake blocks, but I have had more ridgid and sturdier caliper brakes.
that is an early dual pivot side pull; which came out in the very late '60's/early '70's. It has two independent pivots, like a center pull brake, with the cable being the only thing besides the pivot frame connecting the two arms. Newer dual pivot side pulls have a third connection between the arm in the form of a cam with an adjustable follower; in addition, the pivots are not symmetrical.
The new dual pivot side pulls and V-brakes are surprisingly much more effective that previous rim brake designs.