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Araya rim aesthetics
#1
So i bought an 80s Araya rim, but it's got major brake marks that make over 85% of the rim show silver instead of black. Any way to make the rims go back to the clean smooth black look?
Aloha
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#2
Not really. Anything you could put on the rim to make it black again would probably make your braking worse. Alternative might be to carefully buff the braking surface on the side of the rim to make it an even silver all around.
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#3
I have become extremely leery of used rims since the rear rim cracking on our T50. http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-2920-page-3.html

The braking surface is pretty thin to start out with, and just the use of the brakes makes it thinner....

Rims like tires, are maintenance items, that require regular replacement.
Nigel
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#4
(09-06-2013, 01:41 AM)nfmisso Wrote:  I have become extremely leery of used rims since the rear rim cracking on our T50. http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-2920-page-3.html

The braking surface is pretty thin to start out with, and just the use of the brakes makes it thinner....

Rims like tires, are maintenance items, that require regular replacement.

I'll keep that into account. At least this is only the front wheel. I'd really be out of luck if I needed to find another 126mm rear.
Aloha
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#5
(09-06-2013, 04:11 AM)hawaiibike Wrote:  I'll keep that into account. At least this is only the front wheel. I'd really be out of luck if I needed to find another 126mm rear.
When or if you need a rear wheel for a 126mm frame, start a thread & we'll show you options.
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#6
(09-06-2013, 07:51 AM)1FJEF Wrote:  
(09-06-2013, 04:11 AM)hawaiibike Wrote:  I'll keep that into account. At least this is only the front wheel. I'd really be out of luck if I needed to find another 126mm rear.
When or if you need a rear wheel for a 126mm frame, start a thread & we'll show you options.

Thanks! I've already looked into the option of having Peter White building me just a rear wheel with a shimano 105 hub. But as long as this wheel holds up, I should be fine.
Aloha
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#7
I just opened up the front wheel on my Fuji that I recently restored as it kept loosening up. When I restored it I put in new cones and ball bearings and lots of Marine grease. The cones took forever to find and I think I got some of the last ones in my area. Everything is very proprietary and lots of different sizes and threads.

Anyway upon examining the wheel I found lots of wear on one cone , some on the other, fortunately I had a last replacement cone, however I was surprised by the quick wear. The hubs were carefully set up and readjusted. I suspect poor hardening on cones.

So all that trouble to keep old wheels thought me next time to buy new wheels. Possibly with sealed bearings.... Any thoughts on sealed bearings?

Here is a link to some nice vintage size wheels.....Lots more on this site.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html
Never Give Up!!!
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#8
(09-06-2013, 05:41 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  Anyway upon examining the wheel I found lots of wear on one cone , some on the other, fortunately I had a last replacement cone, however I was surprised by the quick wear.
Was the wear like bad pitting?
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#9
(09-06-2013, 05:41 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  ......
So all that trouble to keep old wheels thought me next time to buy new wheels. Possibly with sealed bearings.... Any thoughts on sealed bearings?
.......

Cartridge (aka sealed) bearings - the only way to go. They have been around for decades, like my Suzue hubs, currently on my SR Sierra Sport. We also have cartridge bearing hubs on our T50, they are Wheelmaster, with 100/135 O.L.D. 40H high flange, and incredible bargain from Niagara - around $70- for a set, black or silver. Harris stock Quanda/Quanta freewheel hubs with 100/126 O.L.D. Wiggle has these:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-primato-pair-of-road-hubs/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-racing-box-pair-of-hubs/
which as far as I can tell are the same except color. They are the lowest cost 100/130 cartridge bearing hubs I have found. Wheelmaster (see Amazon) also offers 36H 100/135 hubs with cartridge bearings for a little bit more than the 40H. Amazon has Origin 8 130mm OLD hubs for freewheel ($70-) and cassette (about 2X the cost).
Nigel
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#10
(09-06-2013, 06:58 PM)1FJEF Wrote:  
(09-06-2013, 05:41 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  Anyway upon examining the wheel I found lots of wear on one cone , some on the other, fortunately I had a last replacement cone, however I was surprised by the quick wear.
Was the wear like bad pitting?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yes there was a crescent track of pitting irregularities. That's the type of wear I saw in the old cones I replaced.
Never Give Up!!!
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#11
(09-06-2013, 07:05 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  
(09-06-2013, 05:41 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  ......
So all that trouble to keep old wheels thought me next time to buy new wheels. Possibly with sealed bearings.... Any thoughts on sealed bearings?
.......

Cartridge (aka sealed) bearings - the only way to go. They have been around for decades, like my Suzue hubs, currently on my SR Sierra Sport. We also have cartridge bearing hubs on our T50, they are Wheelmaster, with 100/135 O.L.D. 40H high flange, and incredible bargain from Niagara - around $70- for a set, black or silver. Harris stock Quanda/Quanta freewheel hubs with 100/126 O.L.D. Wiggle has these:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-primato-pair-of-road-hubs/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-racing-box-pair-of-hubs/
which as far as I can tell are the same except color. They are the lowest cost 100/130 cartridge bearing hubs I have found. Wheelmaster (see Amazon) also offers 36H 100/135 hubs with cartridge bearings for a little bit more than the 40H. Amazon has Origin 8 130mm OLD hubs for freewheel ($70-) and cassette (about 2X the cost).

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Thanks for info re sealed wheel bearings , Nigel. My bike is 100/120mm so 130 is too much of a stretch IMO, 126 I can do. Yes Harris seems to have what I will need next time around. Any preference of the Sun vs Weinemann wheels? When redoing the BB I went with a Shimano UN54 sealed unit.
Any thoughts re rapid cone wear? Set up was good.

My motorcycle BTW 1982 BMW R100 BTW has thrust bearings,(cone shaped units) properly set up and serviced they can outlast any sealed bearing, but set up preload is tricky.
Never Give Up!!!
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#12
Hi George;

For my ISO590 wheels, I use Sun CR18. After Velocity Dyad rims for the T50; they are my first choice for ISO622 - very very easy to build a true wheel. And my next ISO559 wheels will be Velocity Aereoheat (same extrusion as the Dyad). I have also used Alex Adventurer (559/36H) and Alex R19 (630/36H) rims with success. If Velocity offered the Dyad/Aeroheat rim in 590 - I would use it.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GSQSG0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DGLVFDGHFPGJ&coliid=I3KWR4K6PDY0RJ

I haven't used Weinemann for any wheel build.

Rapid cone wear: as you mentioned hardness (most likely), next most likely a tiny (microscopic) hard particle. Small aluminum metal particles will oxidizes quite rapidly; aluminum oxide is very hard, and will wear even hardened steel very quickly.
Nigel
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#13
(09-06-2013, 11:53 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  Hi George;

For my ISO590 wheels, I use Sun CR18. After Velocity Dyad rims for the T50; they are my first choice for ISO622 - very very easy to build a true wheel. And my next ISO559 wheels will be Velocity Aereoheat (same extrusion as the Dyad). I have also used Alex Adventurer (559/36H) and Alex R19 (630/36H) rims with success. If Velocity offered the Dyad/Aeroheat rim in 590 - I would use it.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GSQSG0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DGLVFDGHFPGJ&coliid=I3KWR4K6PDY0RJ

I haven't used Weinemann for any wheel build.

Rapid cone wear: as you mentioned hardness (most likely), next most likely a tiny (microscopic) hard particle. Small aluminum metal particles will oxidizes quite rapidly; aluminum oxide is very hard, and will wear even hardened steel very quickly.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Hi Nigel

Not looking to build my own wheels but the Harris Sun rim wheels are priced well. Hind sight being 20/20 I should have bought these instead looking all over for compatible cones. At least I learned something doing it.

Hope the new cone will last a while.
Never Give Up!!!
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#14
George;

You may also want look on ebay for some Suzue hubs like mine - from the '80's...
Like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzue-40H-36H-Nashbar-700c-tandem-wheelset-Suzue-Sealed-Tech-hub-UT20-700x32-rim-/370891215388?pt=US_Wheels_Wheelsets&hash=item565ad6d21c
not a tandem wheelset, touring set, with 6sp Suntour freewheel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzue-Hub-Araya-700-Rim-6-Speed-Suntour-Perfect-Cog-Skewer-Rear-Only-/151101364497?pt=US_Wheels_Wheelsets&hash=item232e57d911
Nigel
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#15
(09-06-2013, 07:34 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  Yes there was a crescent track of pitting irregularities. That's the type of wear I saw in the old cones I replaced.
I've only run into bad pitting on used bikes that have been abused and ridden with little or ancient dried out grease & stored outside for years. Yours surprise me. Salt air & tiny sand particles maybe?
Just the front wheel?
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#16
(09-07-2013, 06:21 AM)1FJEF Wrote:  
(09-06-2013, 07:34 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  Yes there was a crescent track of pitting irregularities. That's the type of wear I saw in the old cones I replaced.
I've only run into bad pitting on used bikes that have been abused and ridden with little or ancient dried out grease & stored outside for years. Yours surprise me. Salt air & tiny sand particles maybe?
Just the front wheel?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Have not opened the rear wheel that one feels good. The front would not hold its setting so I opened it up. front wheels were rebuild with new cones and bearings with lots of Bel Rey marine waterproof grease, rear were good.. Bike is not abused .
I do ride on the Venice beach bike path.

In checking my service notes I found this is the second cone I put in there since I overhauled the bike in 5/10 when I got it. The original (serviced by previous owner) rear were fine. So its a front wheel issue , could be a worn hub?

Nigel..... Nice wheels but I do not want to switch to 700 to many parts to throw out, tires etc......annd I'd sooner get new wheels with sealed bearings, not used wheels .

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html
Never Give Up!!!
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#17
I have been looking around for wheels. Since my rear wheel seems to be working good, I'll open it in winter) but service record indicates no wear. My fron wheel is on a second L cone in three years. I just replaced the cone with the last one probably in existence. :-)

I have considered maybe replacing just the front wheel but cannot find a black rim with black spokes in the 27X1.25 size prefer shreader valves, sealed bearings, freewheel, I have several tubes. , or any...at least in my price range. Anyone??? Nigel? :-)

It seems most likely I'll need to buy a set in silver with SS spokes, If I want aesthetics. Hmm maybe not . For now I'll see how long this cone lasts........

The sun rim wheels from Harris are out of stock.
Never Give Up!!!
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#18
hi George:
hub: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Y69002/ but do NOT get from Green Canyon....
spokes: black Wheelsmith SS14 of the correct length
nipples: black Wheelsmith http://www.amazon.com/Wheelsmith-12mm-Black-Brass-Nipples/dp/B001AYQ6G2/
rim: http://www.amazon.com/Sun-CR-18-36h-Rim-Polished/dp/B002DMRBY6/ i don't know where to get a black one.....
Nigel
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#19
Thanks for the offer Nigel. I'll have the parts send to you and you can build me a wheel. :-) But yes that's kind of what I was looking at if I wanted it my way. Cheaper just to replace both wheels. At 160lbs I do not have to worry about heavy duty wheels and brakes. :-)

This rim is silver BTW, mine is black. That's the hardest part.

I may just wait till Harris has the Sun rim wheels back in stock and buy a set before they stop making them. Unless you can suggest something better at that price point......

Currently I have Sun Tour lepree hubs with Ukai 27X 1 1/8 rim made in Japan in the good old days. Maybe keep the rims and replace hub and spokes.......hmmm
Never Give Up!!!
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#20
George; tell you what, you come visit me on a Saturday or Sunday, bring your bike and all the parts for two wheels (Wheelsmith spokes (SS14, DB14, XL14 or DH13) and 2.0mm nipples only), and we'll get up riding on new wheels in a few hours.
Nigel
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