Hey yall. I need help choosing my 1st road bike. It will be primarily used for commuting to school and weekend rides for exercise. I am stuck between buying a brand new low end bike and an older mid range road bike. For a first timer, what would yall recommend?
Old Trek 1000
Here is the new bike
Are you young & very fit?
How mich do you weigh?
Are the wekend rides competitive with a group?
You couldn't pay me to commute with school supplies on a bike with drop bars & a back pack, even when I was decades younger & skinny.
I like the Trek for $200 if there are no sidewall cracks or excessive tire wear.
Is it likely to get stolen at school?
My school bike would have Flat bars, semi-upright position
, a rear rack &/or removeable front basket. In your area I'd get this
, but you want more speed.
That bike you linked to on Amazon is a lot of bike for the money, but most of the components are super entry level (cheap). I find that Craigslist has great deals, but they allways seem to need tires, chain & rear gears, untrue wheels etc......
This one is nice
How tall are you ???CL Bike 1
Go back a couple of weeks on CL. Check into stuff like this too
. if a family member will chip in this thing is a beauty
. Crappy seat, should be $275
Thank you for your reply 1FJEF! I am 6'2", 23 years old, and i would consider myself to be quite above average shape. Oh and i weigh 205lbs. And no competitive riding...yet. Also, yea i know that drop bars may not be the most practical for school commuting. I just really like that look and style. Our school is pretty bike friendly and there are plenty of places to lock up.
So, would you say for my purposes that a used bike in good condiition with better components would be better than something brand new that has cheaper components? Or vice versa?
When looking at used bikes what are some of the main things to check for? (tires, brakes, wheels, etc..)
That pink bike looks nice but i don't know if i can ride around on that color lol
Thanks for your responses
The used Trek is definitely a better deal, IF:
- everything on it is functioning well. Especially make sure that the shifters are working. This type of shifter can't really be repaired and they're expensive to replace. But they're great when they work.
- spin the bearings (hubs, bottom bracket, headset) and listen for any crunchy or grinding sounds
- spin the wheels. If they're not perfectly straight, no big deal. But if there's any sudden, sharp big wiggles, could be a sign of a bent rim.
- when you test ride the bike, try putting it in a very high gear and then ride it at low speed putting a lot of pressure on the pedals. If you can get it to suddenly slip and then re-catch, probably means it needs a new chain & cassette ($50 - $75)
You'll want to get some regular pedals (not expensive), probably new brake pads, maybe tires if there's any cracking or heavy wear. Get a good U-lock and a decent cable so you can lock both wheels and the frame. Looks good from the pictures and a used bike in good condition is usually a much better buy than new & junky. But it all depends of course... Good luck
Thanks for the info DaveM. That help a lot. I'm gonna try an get a hold the guy and ill keep that all in mind while I'm inspecting/riding it.
What is the difference between true wheels and untrue wheels?
To check the wheel trueness just spin them and watch between brake pads if they spin straight or wobble. This can be adjusted by tuning the spokes.
I like Trek they make nice bikes. The bike looks in good shape check if everything works, shifters can be adjusted if it misses shifts as long as everything is serviced and straight. It has sealed bearings in wheels and crank they cannot be serviced only replaced, again no biggie but additional expense so make sure its smooth. If not bargain. Head may be serviceable.
It looks like a 23", 58cm size is that a good fit for you at 6'2"?
As per aluminum its nice and does not rust great for mountain bikes for stiffness in climbing. However riding a good vintage steel cro-mo bike was a eye opener for me how lively and springy they ride. Contrary to myth weight is not less with aluminum as tubes need to be thicker.
Ye safety is a concern so whatever you get make sure to get a good U lock, lock the frame and wheels. Maybe even replace the trendy quick release parts with old fashion nuts. I do not leave my bike out of sight after having a nice Trek 830 MB stolen. . If you ride at night get good marker lights. IMO especially in the back where you are blind......... Wear light color clothing.
Never Give Up!!!
"Steel is real" All my bikes are '80's and '90's vintage steel; including a Trek T50 and a 930.
Lights: I don't know how many people that I have almost run over on the bike trail due to them nothing reflective; just dark soft clothing and no lights, walking or riding along not paying attention to the world around them. I have two Planet Bike Blinkey flashing tail lights, and a CREE headlight, plus a spare headlight that I can flick on if the battery for the CREE hits end of charge; on every bike. I want to see and be seen. I used to care mostly about being seen, until I came within two feet of running over an idiot in dark non-reflective clothing. A T50 at 15 mph, if it hits a person, will kill them.
"Steel is real" Yeh now I am a steel fan too. Live and learn, still.:-)
10-4 to that just because they are in a bike lane that does not mean they do not need to pay attention. Cars have lights at night its the law. also the law for bicycles.
I get real pod at bikers ignoring safety and riding disrespectfully and dangerously when sharing the road with cars. You do not want to take on a car on a bicycle, as a long time motorcyclist I have lived by defensive riding. Or become a parts donor....
Never Give Up!!!
DUDE. You're 6 foot 2, 205? You probably need a large bike. Your inseam is 36"? Ask the seller to let you adjust it a bit when you test ride.
I still have a bike I bought before you were born, in fact I bought it when I was about a year older than you. I've got a sweatshirt older than you.
You can almost count on needing a chain & new rear gears for a used go-fast bike. I find that unless I know the guy, I just replace them. Worn rear gears eat chains, worn chains can indicate worn rear gears, it's so cheap to just replace on 8 speed or less, I just do it.
At 205, don't ride on an under inflated tire, especially a rear, you'll pinch flat it, or worse damage a rim.
Really? I've heard of multiple 6'1"/6'2" people riding a 58cm. My inseam's about 34". I guess i need at least a 60cm then? I definitely do want to get the right size because i've heard if you ride a bike too small for you it can damage your knees. Im still waiting for the seller of the Trek to respond.
(02-01-2014, 02:14 AM)lrollins90 Wrote: Really? I've heard of multiple 6'1"/6'2" people riding a 58cm. My inseam's about 34". I guess i need at least a 60cm then? I definitely do want to get the right size because i've heard if you ride a bike too small for you it can damage your knees. Im still waiting for the seller of the Trek to respond.
34" isn't freakishly long, if you know people your height I'd go with their suggestions, I'm under 6 feet.
I am 5'11" with 32" trouser inseam, and ride 58cm/23" frame.
Saddle height is a delicate balance between knees and hips; too low hurts knees, too high hurts hips.
Yeh I was wondering about fit as I mentioned above. Glad some big guys chimed in.
Lots of fit info. I just do it by feel. Maybe not by the book but works for me. I usually like a larger frame so I can stretch out, as long as leg fit is proper with the knee slightly bend at lowest pedal position and over the pedal in forward position. Also crutch few inches above top of frame. I usually like the seat back a bit further ..
Never Give Up!!!