Bicycle TutorBicycle Tutor

Show off your bike!

Related video tutorials:
105 sti
#1
Building up my new bike and in preparation (waiting on frame) I have installed my 105 5700 STI levers onto the bars. However, they look funky, looking from the front, the change levers stick outwards a lot, do they 'pull in' when the cables ar hooked up, or is their normal 'rest' position ? The body of the changer is not too far up the bar and the body sticks straight out.
Reply
#2
pictures
Nigel
Reply
#3
+1 to what Nigel asked for. Also do not set the brifters in place or wrap the bar until you fit you and them to the bike properly
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Reply
#4
Ok guys, sorry to panic !!!! What I have is apparently normal. I noticed the same outflaring of the levers on the pro bikes at the Giro. I have had Campy STI for about ten years and the Campy levers are in line with the body, of course Campy don't use the lever itself as a gear changer. It was strange to hold them in my hands and see the levers stuck out like broken legs and even stranger when I saw them on the bars. Can't say I'm thrilled with the look, but if they work ok, as I'm sure they will, that's fine.
I will be riding before I tape, however, these are bars that I am reusing and I marked the lever position with tape when I took them off my other bike, so they should be fairly close.
Reply
#5
(06-11-2014, 06:35 PM)limey Wrote:  ..... these are bars that I am reusing and I marked the lever position with tape when I took them off my other bike, so they should be fairly close.

with 15mm or so, Campy vs Shimano......
Nigel
Reply
#6
Not sure I understand? Are you saying that there is/could be a 15mm difference? I have eyeballed them against the old bike and they look very close. However, I will be doing a short ride untaped to make final adjustment.
Reply
#7
He is referring to amount of cable pull difference between Shimano and Campy.
Reply
#8
Ah, I see, don't think I have a problem there.
Tried to post a bars picture as well as the frame, but I just got the frame. Let me see if I can get it now.
Tried to post a bars picture as well as the frame, but I just got the frame. Let me see if I can get it now. [attachment=5158]
Reply
#9
OK guys, first major problem of the build - can you help? The center bolt on the back brake is about 1/2" short and the bolt on the front brake is about 1" short. I cannot use longer nuts, 'cos the nut bottoms out on a shoulder recessed 3/8" inside the hole in the frame, no matter how long the nut, it cannot go any closer to the end of the bolt. I can use the intended front brake on the back and I would have to cut/ grind about 1/4" off the length, or use washers, which I don't want to do.
I have contacted the seller to see if I can get any answer from him. Do you have any life saving suggestions. Eric.
Reply
#10
lets see some pics of your brakes
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Reply
#11
[attachment=5162]Pictures as requested, if I upload correctly.
The picture is of the front brake, the rear brake is mounted loosely on the bike, so that I could cut my cables. The front brake is identical except that it has about a 1" longer bolt.
Reply
#12
normally the front recessed brake is the longer, the rear is shorter, the pic you post and say is the front, looks like the rear. you describe your rear as being longer. I think you have them confused.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Reply
#13
True. It's been a long, hot day !!!!!! I have an e-mail out to the supplier to see if he can offer an exchange for brakes with the longer bolts - I've given him the lengths required, but I am not holding my breath. I don't want to return the whole package cos I have everything on the bike and I don't have perfect packing and I don't want to start again.
It would be simple for me to change out the bolts if he could supply new bolts, or maybe I can buy longer bolts from Shimano. Going to Ace Hardware might be tough because of the flush head on the bolt.
Actually, I can easily modify the length of the original front brake bolt to make it fit the rear, so I just need the really long bolt to go through the chubby front fork. Do you know of any sources ?
True. It's been a long, hot day !!!!!! I have an e-mail out to the supplier to see if he can offer an exchange for brakes with the longer bolts - I've given him the lengths required, but I am not holding my breath. I don't want to return the whole package cos I have everything on the bike and I don't have perfect packing and I don't want to start again.
It would be simple for me to change out the bolts if he could supply new bolts, or maybe I can buy longer bolts from Shimano. Going to Ace Hardware might be tough because of the flush head on the bolt.
Actually, I can easily modify the length of the original front brake bolt to make it fit the rear, so I just need the really long bolt to go through the chubby front fork. Do you know of any sources ?
Sorry about the double posts, apparently it's posting before I hit 'post', then it says wait 60 sec cos you posted a minute ago.
Reply
#14
Hold On Limey, Here are a couple more questions. Look at pic one. give me in MM's. the measurement of the post of both the front and rear caliper you have. Then look at pic 2 and tell me how thick your brake bridge is in MM too. Still confused on what pic you are calling the front, is this 2 views of the same caliper? and is this the one you are calling the front caliper? If so, it is not the front it is the rear, if your post measures close to 13mm that is the rear. if it measures close to 22mm, that is your front. your rear brake bridge for recessed brakes should measure around 16mm.
Give me the measurements I asked for. and we can go from there.
Here are the pics
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Reply
#15
The REAR brake has a stud length 13mm, the bridge is 26mm minus a 10mm recess for the nut = 16mm leaving a 3mm gap between the end of the bolt and the face of the nut.
The FRONT brake has a stud length of 25mm (+/-), the fork bridge is 50mm minus 10mm recess = 40mm. There is a gap 15 mm between the end of the stud and the face of the nut.
By stud length I mean from the face of the washer abutting the main nut, to the end of the thread - effective bolt length.
The nut, regardless of length, cannot pass into the bridge farther than the bottom of the recess, so any adjustment has to be to the length of the bolt.
Appreciate your help and interest - I'm off dining, drinking and dancing too big band, lots of jitterbug !!!! Hope you have a good Sturday too, I feel like I earned it today.
Reply


Forum Jump:



ISSN 1918-3445 © Copyright 2007-2010 Bicycle Tutor / Privacy Policy / Created by Alex Ramon

feed