(04-25-2014, 03:23 PM)nfmisso Wrote: I would probably go with 264 on both sides if only even lengths were offered. 265 and 263 if odd lengths are a choice.
And SS14 - which is what I'd use on most wheels, if the spoke count is high enough for the application. If it is border line in my opinion, I go with DH13 spokes, which are much more expensive.
I purchase 500 at a time.
Make sure that you get a spoke wrench that properly fits the brand of nipples you are using - there are variations.
large flange vs low flange - there are pros and cons both ways; but nothing major either way - especially with only 32 or 36 spokes. My favorite hubs (price/performance - paved surfaces only) are Wheelmaster's 40H tandem hubs - very inexpensive, beefy 14mm axle on the rear, and 40 spokes. The are large flange, just to be able to have 20 well supported spoke holes per flange.
I purchase most of my bike items through Amazon.
You do need a 2 mm difference in sp length. The integrity of the wheel will be afected by using the same lenght on both sides of a rr wheel. True the wheel at very low tension in order to deal w/ the imperfections of the rim while you can see them w/ out spoke tension. By the way I used to use purple loktite (a small drop on the back-side of the nipple b4 tension, then trow in the min level of tension).
You are unsure of spoke length - maybe lace the wheel and throw some tension into it to make sure the lengths are going to work.
At any rate,
get the dish set at a fairly early stage. If you get stuke using the same length on both sides the tension will be potentially very high on the free wheel/casette side. In the end game with so much tension you will not be able to pull the wheel to centre if needs be and you would prefer not to loosen the non
freewheel side to accomplish that task.
By the way 14g DT are really the way to go. Weight saved is minimul and more than lost by a wheel that will not last as long and will be prone to breaking spokes on the free wheel side. 15g dbl butted - maybe I say maybe on the front wheel of a critirum course race bike riden by a 120 lb racer who knows how to ride a bike (not all racer's ride a bike with skill. some are bullies w/ their bike).
After you throw your first tension in you are going to pull the parrellel spokes. Do this at least four times during the building process. You want to take all the stretch out of the spokes b4 it is a wheel.
With the dbl butted 15g this will not be too much of a concern (the 14g streches, especially w/ the 700c).
I used to put the rim on a 'flat' table b4 building it but you should still inspect the rim b4 you build it. If there is a seious imperfection the retailer should take it back. If the retailer refuses, e-mail the rim manufacturer. No manufacturer wants a substandard product being used which was probably damaged in shipping anayway.
The up and down will need more tension to get perfectly true but the side to side should get true at low tension and the up and down at medium tension. Try to work in pairs - lossen one side tightren the other: if your pulling it down, pull with an even # of spokes same if your pushing it out away from the hub.
Because you took care of the imperfections early on - as you add tension it will be the same spots that you dealt with early asserting their imperfection later. The wheel would have failed in those spots if you had not dealt w/ the imperfection early, that is the difference between a real hand built wheel and a machine built wheel.
Keep it wReal-Right.