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Help specifying replacement rings set/crankset?
#1
Hi All:
My first post. I have a 2004 Fuji Del Rey Hybrid with stock parts---> http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2004&brand=Fuji&model=Del+Rey

I picked up another bike for the puropse of taking this bike off the road for overhaul. It is my utility bike-has a big rack, etc.

I love this bike, it is incredibly comfortable and very upright and safe for city maneuvering and wish to keep it, but the drivetrain is worn down pretty well with some teeth rounded and skipping the chain a little bit at times. I beat it pretty hard off curbs and the like too. It's a 3x8 speed which seems less popular these days. The crank and rings being what they are I was looking to replace the BB+crankset, rings, chain and rear cassette to keep it going another 10 years. I have rapid fire alivios on another bike but I still like the grip shifters and only replaced one of them once in 10 years. I am fine with ditching the front suntour derailler but do I have to get rid of the rear deore? Can I keep the 8 speed setup? Man they have changed everything last ten years! I was hoping to go with a midrange mtb setup like alivio or deore kit, but I am having trouble specifying everything (chain lines, etc.). The spindle/BB setup is 122.5/68 mm w/50mm chain line. Can somebody pass on some configurations you would spec out for upgrading this bike. Thanks for your advice. Brian
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#2
here are some components on the cheap, but you cannot beat the crankset for the money. with the 28/38/48 most today are steel and rivited which = lower end. you almost have to go with a new old stock crankset to get a smoother nicer crank with replaceable chainrings with that type of gearing. I would be happy to sell you one but will be 5 times more $$ than the crank in the link. I do not understand the remark about the front der. but if you want to replace it, you can fin them anywhere.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301148908856?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361000489262?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151147667324?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=450216583639&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331281096893?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

this is assuming you have a cassette and not a freewheel.I highly recommend having the rear derailleur hanger aligned before swapping the new parts, and you are good to go. only you know if your rear derailleur is bad, that would be the only reason to replace it, other than that it should be fine. I would however remove and clean, relube the pivit points and jockey wheels
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#3
Thanks painkiller. I made an error. The front derailler is a shimano c200 not suntour. The crank is suntour. My comment about the front derailler is just that I am ok replacing it don't care either way. I wasn't expecting to be able to keep the 8 speed but I do want to. My chainline is currently 50mm on 122.5 spindle length. I think that sugino crank you listed calls for a shorter spindle-113mm like the one you listed. How will that fit up with my front derailler and chainline setup? Am I gonna get stuck with a crank that recommends a 122 length. How does this sizing matchup work from the spindle length to the crank to chainline to front derailler. This is my major difficulty so I thought I would ask for some pros to just spec out an upgrade kit such as did. Thanks very much.
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#4
understand the BB length is determined by the crankset, your 122.5 was for the one you are replacing. The one i spec'd uses a 113mm, your chainline will not be affected and may even be improved. If your front derailleur has not been damaged an has served you well, I would set up with what I spec'd then if you need to replace the front Der. you can try another one. The most important thing to do is align the rear derailleur hanger, that is step 2, step one would be to make sure the rear axle is proper and rim is true. then align the rear derailleur hanger and proceed with installation of new components, after the cleaning of the old components. and all will be fine once properly tuned.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#5
chainline <> front derailleur.

different cranks are designed differently so that they required different BB spindle lengths to achieve the same chainline.

I think these would work well for you; providing an additional set of choices.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I7K5LC/ref=twister_B005531XDK
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Square-Bottom-Bracket-68x122-5mm/dp/B005DTIEZQ/
http://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Crank-Arm-Fixing-Bolts/dp/B001GSOIBC/
http://www.amazon.com/PG830-Bicycle-Cassette-8-Speed-11-32T/dp/B000NNQIZU/
I would consider changing to a closer ratio cassette, if you are not using the whole gear range.
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-X8-99-Bicycle-8-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B0013BV540/
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Comp-Bicycle-Speed-Shifter/dp/B001ONH01Y/
Both my red and blue commuters are 7 speed; my green GT is 8 speed. Most of my projects this year have been 7 speed. 7 speed derailleur equipped bikes are still sold in more volume than all the others choices of speeds combined.
Nigel
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#6
oOh my goodness, please stop. the bottom bracket fine ( the same) the chain, fine. the shifters garbage and no need. that shimano crankset is a hunk of crap , but would make a good boat anchor. To each their own. I laid out the best bang for the buck on the cheap, one could find. Thats as good as it gets in this price range. both chains are good and have quik links for easy cleaning and comparable in cost. stick with your 8speed. to put on that Shimano crankset and the Mrx shifters is a certain downgrade and lowers the value of the bike somewhat. In my opinion. Number one rule: equal too or better than original and of era is a plus
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#7
Here is an update:

I went with the Sugino impel 150X crank, 113mm UN55 BB, sram 870 chain, sram 850 8 spd cassette.

Chainline is jacked, but it is off in opposite direction as I expected. Surprised me too. It is too far outboard. Basically the chain lines up perfectly straight on the innermost smallest front ring and in the rear the 4th chainring. This is about 9mm. Needs to come closer inboard up front. I am returning the BB and gonna try a 103mm. If I am not happy with that I will shitcan the crankset and start over. Ideas anyone? Thanks.
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#8
with parts installed and 113mm BB, chainline from center of middle front ring to center of seat tube is 55.5mm. Crankset mfg recommends 110/113, so what right? That clearly ain't working. Currently 14mm clearance from crank to chainstay, that will go down to 9mm. Too close? What do you guys think? Thanks.




(09-14-2014, 12:30 AM)Brian44 Wrote:  Here is an update:

I went with the Sugino impel 150X crank, 113mm UN55 BB, sram 870 chain, sram 850 8 spd cassette.

Chainline is jacked, but it is off in opposite direction as I expected. Surprised me too. It is too far outboard. Basically the chain lines up perfectly straight on the innermost smallest front ring and in the rear the 4th chainring. This is about 9mm. Needs to come closer inboard up front. I am returning the BB and gonna try a 103mm. If I am not happy with that I will shitcan the crankset and start over. Ideas anyone? Thanks.
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#9
Dunno without the bike in front of me. Not totally unusual to vary from what they would spec but that seems like a big difference. double check your measurements and try another size. there is no exact standard spacing from the crankarm to the stay's. 9mm is fine as long as your heel clearance is acceptable to you. If I give chainline away, I choose the direction towards the gears I use the most. It should be a good set up for the money once you get it dialed in. I have used the crankset I spec'd before without issue. The one you chose is a different model from what I linked too but that should not have made a difference. Keep us posted
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#10
Update...
Just installed IRD 103mm BB with the impel 150x crank and pc870 chain. BEAUTIFUL-PERFECT!! Minor derailler adjustments only!! Total cost about $75 plus a few extra tools. Wow, smooth.
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#11
Awesome Brian! Crazy it was off that much, Had me worried a bit I might say. I hate to give bad advice if I can help it. Sounds like you should be good to go! Thats what I want to hear! I am all about smooooth Smile
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#12
Nice! Looks like I'm in the same boat as you - need to replace the crankset, BB, chain, and cassette.

What tools did you buy to remove the cassette and BB? I don't have any bike specific tools, just a normal toolbox and socket set. I was hoping there'd be a good toolkit that has everything in it, instead of buying one-off tools. Any recommendations?
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#13
(09-20-2014, 04:57 AM)SPaikmos Wrote:  Nice! Looks like I'm in the same boat as you - need to replace the crankset, BB, chain, and cassette.

What tools did you buy to remove the cassette and BB? I don't have any bike specific tools, just a normal toolbox and socket set. I was hoping there'd be a good toolkit that has everything in it, instead of buying one-off tools. Any recommendations?
First post some clear closeup pics of what you have, then we can recommend the proper tools, you would be better off to buy the specific tools vs a kit in my opinion
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#14
All you have to do is look up the specs on your bike and then look up how to replace those items ("overhaul crankset, "replace cassette", etc). Any good tutorial will talk about the different styles/tools (esp. as regards BB's) usually with pictures either on the tutorial directly or with links. Unfortunately the instant gratification generation seems more interested in videos, so the best sources (sheldonbrown.com and parktool.com/blog are getting pushed down in the results of searches. Unfortunately videos sometimes leave out important info and tend to focus on only one type of equipment, so it may be more difficult to find needed info.

It's MUCH better to learn about what you are working on than to just get the tools and dive in. There are several considerations when it comes to replacing drive train components, and if you don't understand the interactions you can end up getting incompatible parts or tools. Again, the sites noted above give you the opportunity to know better what is involved and to do the job correctly the first time.

One more note - the tool to remove what you have may be different than the tool you need to install the new part, so it may be better to have a shop remove it.
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#15
Better if you told us what your setup is but I can tell you what tools I had to buy for myself to do my job. Can't tell you if your tools required will be the same. I went cheap and bought used from ebay for most of them. FYI I paid higher price when I bought the 113mm Shimano bottom bracket online the first round. I knew there was a chance of return on the first try so I bought it from rei who has a lenient return policy. Then I returned it in person at the rei up the street when I needed to get a shorter one and had to wait a couple days to get the IRD 103mm. Here are the tools I had to buy-

Cassette lockring remover Park tool FR-5G
Chain whip Park Tool HCW-16
Crank puller Park Tool ccp-22
Bottom Bracket removal tool Park BBT-22
Chain breaker Park tool CT-5

I already had a lot of general hand tools like the metric hex wrenches, crescent wrench, general purpose bearing grease.

Had the bike for 10 years maybe 3000 miles total so I also repacked the wheel bearings grease, so I had to buy 2 cone wrenches it was a 16mm in back and 13mm in front. This job was not required and has medium potential for screwing it up, even if you have car repair experience like I do. If you don't have any play in your wheel bearings I wouldn't bother.
CNY is right. I spent a good 2 weeks of free time figuring out the correct tools before I posted looking for tips on which crank and new drivetrain parts to get. The general type of tool is going to be similar, but you need to match the exact tool models to ensure compatibility with removal AND installation of new parts.
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