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Cannonade Badboy (2002) fork removal
#1
Hi

I'm trying to get the forks off a Cannondale 2002 Badboy frame - this is the model:

http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2002&brand=Cannondale&model=Bad+Boy

But I can't see how to go about it. I suspect that the black washers have corroded round the neck & that's what's keeping it attached (see pictures). Tried soaking the washers in WD40. Tried tapping it with a wooden mallet, but don't want to hit it too hard.

Anyone got any ideas? Help much appreciated...

[img][Image: 2ij6xab.jpg][/img]
[img][Image: b64tuw.jpg][/img]
[img][Image: dgjkhk.jpg][/img]

Thanks
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#2
Galvanic corrosion. They are merely spacers. Place a block of wood on top of fork tube and smack with hammer and they should pop loose.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#3
(09-30-2016, 09:04 PM)painkiller Wrote:  Galvanic corrosion. They are merely spacers. Place a block of wood on top of fork tube and smack with hammer and they should pop loose.

Thank you. Will give it a go.
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#4
(09-30-2016, 09:04 PM)painkiller Wrote:  Galvanic corrosion. They are merely spacers. Place a block of wood on top of fork tube and smack with hammer and they should pop loose.

So - soaked it in WD40 for a while and tried the block of wood/hammer thing. Hit it pretty hard (didn't go mad, as was concerned I'd damage it) and nothing shifted.

I guess I could try and hammer something in-between the washers and try and pop them off one by one (or at least start to break the corroded seal?

Any ideas appreciated Smile
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#5
probably hard to do without the bike in a stand. You have to have the frame in such a way to let the fork be able to start to drop out as it is being hit. you will damage the spacers but time for new anyway if they are this bad of shape. Brace the fork from moving and take a pipe wrench to the little guys to try two spin them loose. If that does not work, carefully use a cutoff wheel score deep on a couple side and pop loose with a chisel and hammer. do not cut the steer tube
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#6
(10-02-2016, 07:26 AM)painkiller Wrote:  probably hard to do without the bike in a stand. You have to have the frame in such a way to let the fork be able to start to drop out as it is being hit. you will damage the spacers but time for new anyway if they are this bad of shape. Brace the fork from moving and take a pipe wrench to the little guys to try two spin them loose. If that does not work, carefully use a cutoff wheel score deep on a couple side and pop loose with a chisel and hammer. do not cut the steer tube

Went with the pipe wrench & worked well.

Thanks for your help!
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#7
Cool! crazy stubborn for such a simple task. clean up the fork the fork tube well and place a thin coat of water proof grease to it. many use boat trailer axle grease. cheap and works well for bicycle bearings too.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#8
(10-02-2016, 08:19 PM)painkiller Wrote:  Cool! crazy stubborn for such a simple task. clean up the fork the fork tube well and place a thin coat of water proof grease to it. many use boat trailer axle grease. cheap and works well for bicycle bearings too.

Getting there Smile

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=15s4kew&s=9#.V_FtPGPaaNg
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#9
Looking good, coming right along. What product did you use to strip the frame?
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#10
(10-02-2016, 09:52 PM)painkiller Wrote:  Looking good, coming right along. What product did you use to strip the frame?

Polycell Maximum Strength Paint Stripper:

https://www.amazon.com/Polycell-MSPS500-Maximum-Strength-Stripper/dp/B005W3RZNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475445279&sr=8-1&keywords=Polycell+Maximum+Strength+Paint+Stripper

Tried Nitromors but was finding it had no effect.

Should say that the paint on the bike was badly corroded - a lot of oxidation. So, there were chunks that just peeled away.

Applied the stripper - left for an hour. Went at it with a stripping/scraping hook. Took a lot off & broke the integrity of areas that were less corroded. Coated again - left 2 hours. Stripping hook again. Paint started to change in consistency - coming away quicker. Another coat - left over night. One more detailed go with the hook. Then once over with a coarse grade or wet/dry paper. And once over with a fine grade.

Sounds like a lot - but actually has been pretty quick (started taking bike apart on Friday). Will give it 1 or 2 more passes with the fine paper & then wash with alcohol. Then prime.

Please with how its gone. Received that 14 years of carrying 240 lbs of human around London hasn't cracked the frame Smile
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#11
thanks for sharing. We used to nick name them "Crack n' Fail". I have always liked Cannondale. Had a few myself over the years. When you get her done, show us the results. Looking forward to it.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#12
(10-02-2016, 10:20 PM)painkiller Wrote:  thanks for sharing. We used to nick name them "Crack n' Fail". I have always liked Cannondale. Had a few myself over the years. When you get her done, show us the results. Looking forward to it.

Will do. Thanks again for your help.
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#13
(10-02-2016, 10:21 PM)ebgt Wrote:  
(10-02-2016, 10:20 PM)painkiller Wrote:  thanks for sharing. We used to nick name them "Crack n' Fail". I have always liked Cannondale. Had a few myself over the years. When you get her done, show us the results. Looking forward to it.

Will do. Thanks again for your help.

Hi. Was wondering if you could help me. Am converting my Cannondale Hybrid Badboy to drop bars. Have dealt with the brake issue by using a Problem Solver Travel Agent. But have run up against a gearing issue.

The STI shifters work in terms of indexing (i.e. 9 on the back 3 on the front) but I'm having trouble with the front derailleur (Shimano Deore). Have realised that the adjustment nut no longer exists. i.e. it was on the flat handle bar shifters. Road bikes appear to have that adjustment nut, under the down tube where the cable housing cinches into the holder on the frame (don't know what that's called).

Is there a work round for this? Can I get a plastic nut that would adapt my bike? Or have I run up against an unsolvable one? Any thoughts/help much appreciated as ever.

Thanks
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#14
maybe some pics may help see what you are dealing with.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#15
(10-18-2016, 09:10 PM)painkiller Wrote:  maybe some pics may help see what you are dealing with.

Right.

I installed these:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifters/shimano-sora-st3400-9-speed-double-triple-road-sti-levers/

For their compatibility with 9 speed at the back & 3 chainrings. The current gear set on the bike is Shimano Deore. I've indexed the rear derailleur without a problem.

For your edification, this is where it's got to now Smile
[Image: 29xu350.jpg]

Here's the derailleur:
[Image: 25tgiz4.jpg]

And from the top:
[Image: 2e6dcvl.jpg]

The Brifters:
[Image: b7i461.jpg]

The cable holder (is that the name?) under the down tube where (on a road bike) there's an adjustment screw to index the front derailleur.
[Image: 16humf8.jpg]

Nosing around online I found this:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sora-3500-double-9-speed-front-derailleur/

And I was wondering of it might be compatible with both the Brifters and the frame (seat tube is 31.8mm).

But even if it is, I still have the issue of indexing the gears. i.e. whether I can fit an indexing screw under the down tube? Or if that's not possible? Or if there's another way?

That's it, pretty much. As ever, any advice warmly received.

Except - you should never have started in the first place Smile
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#16
Looks like you could use an "inline barrel adjuster".
I do not know what you mean when you say indexing screw. The front derailleur has a clamp screw, High/Low limit screws. The front der. link you gave says "Double" you have a triple ring up front. try the inline barrel adjuster and see if you can dial it in before trying other front derailleurs.
Looks like you are coming right along with the project/Mod. Thanks for sharing
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#17
(10-19-2016, 02:12 AM)painkiller Wrote:  Looks like you could use an "inline barrel adjuster".
I do not know what you mean when you say indexing screw. The front derailleur has a clamp screw, High/Low limit screws. The front der. link you gave says "Double" you have a triple ring up front. try the inline barrel adjuster and see if you can dial it in before trying other front derailleurs.
Looks like you are coming right along with the project/Mod. Thanks for sharing

Thanks for your input on this. As yu asked  - this was the finished bike. Had to raise the handlebars, but rides pretty well Smile

[Image: j7yeci.jpg]
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#18
cool, so she is road ready huh. Did you get the gears set up fine?
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#19
(11-02-2016, 12:17 AM)painkiller Wrote:  cool, so she is road ready huh. Did you get the gears set up fine?

Yes. Got there in the end. Took a while to realise that the front derailleur brifter goes up in 6 increments - i.e. 2 clicks to one gear. Don't ask me why, but there are a few threads about it out there.

Other than that, indexed as per various other video tutorials & all seem to be bedding in fine.

All in all, it worked out. I think the LBS quoted me for £400 to get the frame resprayed & reassembled (& that was with all the old parts). I reckon for about £200 I got the respray & replaced about 50% of the moving components.

Thanks for your help Smile
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