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Repair down tube shifter boss
#1
I have a Trek 1420 road bike. The shifter is on the down tube. I have broken off one of the brass piece ( what the shifter lever is secured into). I have found the repair kit.
Does anyone have a video or experience with this repair that they could share? I have been told that the part is glued to the frame?
The repair kit is called "Lever boss kit for Al frame"
From Nova Cycle Supply

http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/LEVER-BOSS-KIT-FOR-AL-FRAME.html

ALUMINUM ROAD LEVER BOSS SET CAN BE USED FOR 6061 OR 7005.

THIS SET IS TO BE ASSEMBLED WITH A GOOD EPOXY ADHESIVE SUCH AS 3M DP460 AND THE THREADED ROD

NOT SOLD IN PAIRS
Details
SKU NOV_AL_RLB_298
Weight 0.04 lbs

Price: $4.66
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#2
From the looks of it and from you say, I have to asked if there is a hole in your frame where the current shifters are located? The only way to install these is to drill a hole in your frame if there is no hole where the Brass piece was? It would help a great deal if you could upload or attach a picture of the side view where the brass piece was and on the other side.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#3
PIX of shifter lever
I've never been lost but I have been a powerful mite confused for several long peroids of time during my life.
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#4
(02-11-2010, 03:36 PM)Jamesw2 Wrote:  PIX of shifter lever

Not sure if this would help or not but you can get this to repair it if it will fit your bicycle.
ORNATE Huret road bike downtube shifter lever clamp NOS
http://www.flybikeshop.com/servlet/the-1124/ORNATE-Huret-road-bike/Detail
They only cost 12 bucks not to bad hope this will help you out.This will let you do both sides at the same time.All you would have to do is remove as much as you can if you have a dremel tool it will be easy to take them off.
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#5
It is only one inch in diameter so it wont work. I did find the part so with a little heat i should be able to remove the old and install a new boss
I've never been lost but I have been a powerful mite confused for several long peroids of time during my life.
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#6
Hello James sorry I did not get back sooner had pressing business all day yesterday. That looks like it is gonna be fun. I see what you were talking about and heat probably would be best.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#7
I had a somewhat similar problem with my 1990 Technium road bike. In my case the threaded rod didn't shear, rather the mount of the front shifter (left hand side of the down tube) came unglued from the frame. I glued it back on using J-B Weld 8265-s. Can't help you with getting the old sheared threaded rod out, but when it comes time to glue the new stuff back on, surface prep is very important.

I applied a small amount of acetone using a Q-tip to all glued surfaces (frame and mount) and rubbed off using a paper towel (in a ventilated area like outdoors, of course). Repeated this several times. Next, using very fine sandpaper, removed remaining glue and paint right down to metal. Brought the bike inside, mixed small amounts of the two tubes of J-B Weld 8265-s using a toothpick and applied a small amount of the mixture to the frame using a toothpick. Repositioned the mount to the frame and clamped using the widest plastic clamp (Irwin Quick-Grip, it's blue in color, 4 inches) I could find at Home Depot. It's important to use a plastic clamp as heavy metal C-clamps weigh too much and will slip. I had paper towels on hand to sop up any J-B Weld that that oozed out. I let the bike sit indoors at room temperature for 36 hours (J-B Weld says 15 hours minimum, but room temp curing is very important; no need to use a blow dryer).

Anyway, back in the saddle of a beautiful 1990's Technium and the front der shifter hasn't come flying off and gotten involved in the rear wheel spokes or chain rings (potentially catastrophic wreck). The repair cost about $20 in materials and equipment. When the rear der shifter comes off, I'll be ready with a fix.

As an aside, I considered clamp-on shifters and even bar end shifters or Paul Thumbies but rejected for reasons of stress on the tube, cost, and keeping the bike true to itself.

The J-B Weld product and surface preparation was recommended by three different local bike shops.
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