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Servicing Pedals
#1
Is there a real need to service pedals (i.e. clean and grease them, replace bearings), or are they generally just replaced if problems arise?
Any tips on freeing potentially seized pedals?

Why is it that they make adult bikes that'll generally work for 5'9" or above, yet when you pedal these same bikes they only work for someone who is 5'4" or so?
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#2
It's a cost/time calculation for the most part. Most lower end pedal are not really designed to be serviced and are treated as disposable. Mid and higher end should be cleaned and repacked occasionally. But they are often a bit trickier than repacking a hub because it's sometimes a little harder to open them up and they can have lots of small bearings. I don't think you can replace the bearing surfaces on most pedals, just the bearings. So once the races are worn, it's generally time to replace. Many better clipless pedals use sealed bearings so they last a long time. But it comes down to what you have. I say go for it, I hate to see good parts get treated as consumer disposable items for no reason.
It a pedal won't rotate anymore, there's probably a crushed bearing inside that wedged in. Unlikely this could be fixed even if it was worth the time to work on it.

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#3
Thanks for the suggestions. As for "seized", I meant bolted into the crank, but rusted/stuck there a while, whatever.
http://bicycletutor.com/replace-pedals/
Would just forcing them with a 15mm wrench coupled with a pipe (maybe) not damage anything? Is there a way to get WD-40 or the like onto the threads?

Why is it that they make adult bikes that'll generally work for 5'9" or above, yet when you pedal these same bikes they only work for someone who is 5'4" or so?
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#4
Using a pipe for more leverage is a time tested technique! The risks are damaging the tool, rounding out the flat on the pedal, banging your knuckles, etc. Pretty unlikely you can hurt the crank UNLESS you're turning the wrong way. Remember that the left pedal has reverse threads. Also be careful about how you brace the crank. If you're pushing against a chainring with that much force, you'll bend them.
I've never had much luck with chemical approaches for seized parts though others claim to have. I think the chemical can't really penetrate far enough to make much difference. If it is a steel crank, then a good rust breaker may help a little.
Worst case: I've had to drill out a pedal from the crank before. You drill from the back side. The tricky part is to drill out enough of the pedal spindle without hitting the crank at all and damaging the threads. You don't have to completely remove all the material from the pedal. Sometimes if you drill out most of the metal, it's grip in the crank weakens and you can get it out by unscrewing then. Just be careful, easy to ruin the crank arm.

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#5
My LBS-guru did the following:
- move crank arms to horizontal position
- take 1 big hammer, place it under the crank under the stuck pedal
- take 2nd big hammer, hit crank on top of stuck pedal
- take pedal wrench, place on pedal, carefully tap end with hammer (both directions)
repeat, if necessary.
Sounds brutal (and it _is_ brutal), only advisable on older parts, in my opinion. I don't want to know what this does to new cranks...
Caveat: when applying too much force on the pedal wrench, you can strip out the crank arm's threads! This is especially true, if somebody installed the pedals without grease...

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#6
I have clipless double sided shimano pedals for my bike. I put some oil in the pedals about 3-4 times a year and have not had a single issue and the pedals are 10 years old now. I have no idea if they are sealed units however. I'll just keep adding a some oil now and then and keep riding.

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#7
Hi, guys. I'm new to this forum and bike repair. I searched for my bike (Genesis v2100) in the pedal and crank sub-forum, but I couldn't find any hits. Then I searched stuck and I got to this thread. I'm hoping unwed to post my question here it in another separate thread. The pedals on my v2100 have disintegrated leaving only the metal rod in the middle of one and just a bit of plastic on the other. I know the one that is just a metal rod is bent and I think the other may be bent a little as well. I've tried to take them off to replace them and they won't come off. Are there such things as pedals that aren't removable? Or, do you think I'm not trying hard enough? I don't want to break or strip anything...
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#8
I have not heard of a non-removable pedal, but I have to take a torch (note: use great care to avoid getting burned or starting a fire) to more than one bolt to get it out.
Have fun and just enjoy the ride
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#9
I think a clicking is coming from my crank but am told it is my new pedals which are new to the bike and are only a month old, how do I stop the clicking??? Please help!!
Just wanna ride!!!
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#10
And when I take off my pedals do I grease the threads?
Just wanna ride!!!
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#11
Mick - it's always a good idea to lubricate pedal axle threads. Grease is better than nothing and is okay on steel-to-steel applications. However, most bikes sold today have steel pedal spindles threaded into an aluminum crank arm. With dis-similar metals, galvanic corrosion can and will occur. These are best treated with an Anti-Sieze compound of another (third) metal base. For steel-to-aluminum, I prefer a copper based anti-sieze. Copper is also good for titanium spindles. We could get into a lengthy Metallurgical discussion but it's not really needed.

As for your 'clicking' sound on a new bike, it could be one of a dozen things! The most common? - Look to see that your front drlr cable is not sticking out so that the crankarm hits it on every pass.

Rob
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
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